Hi Everyone

Problem came back. Engine light check came on. Rough idle and engine misfire while driving. The new code is P0351. I don't know whatelse to check. I replaced the coils and sparkplugs. Can anyone think of anything else I need to check?

Thanks.

2001 Mazda Tribute DX V6.

 

Well, Sounds like to me you have a bad Coil pack. Code P0351 Per the Mazda workshop manual Reads as is, PCM did not receive a valid ignition Diagnostic Monitor ( IDM ) pulse signal, whick indicates that the primary side of the coil has failed from the ignition module ( integrated in the PCM ) This is caused by an ignition coil failure. I would change the coil pack and go from there. Let me know what fixes you issue..Hope this helps you. ZOOM ZOOM

 

Yes the code is pointing initially at a primary coil circuit fault in the #1 ignition coil. If the coils have all been replaced and you are getting at least 10volt input to the coil then also a possiblity of crank position sensor fault. Check out step 5 and 6 in troubleshooting for P0351 and see if you are seeing that also Lucy02. Not sure why a CKP fault should throw that code but whatever. Have not ever run accross a Trib with that one before.

 

I replaced all coil packs. I also replaced another coil pack #1 again, still same problem. And I don't have the step 5+6 in troubehshooting for P0351. Where do I get it? Thanks babyhuey

 

I got error P0351, engine check light came back. I replaced the coil, still not going away. Help please!!!

 

HI Babyhuey

I have another question. I am done replacing the coils or swapped them around. Still get error P0351. I am trying to replace the connectors and wiring because I don't know how to use the multimeter. I looked around local salvage yards but they don't seem to have any tribute in stock.

Since you work with alot of Mazdas. I was just wondering if u know any other models of mazda or ford that has the same type of connector that would fit into Tribute's coil. If there are other models that will fit in with my Tribute's coil. I might have more chance of getting a good connector from the junk yard.

Thanks.

D

 

All of the Tribs should have the same connector as well as the Ford Escape. Am positive that the 2002 and later MPV also has the same connector and am about 80% sure that Mazda 6 with both 4 cylinder and V6 should have the same as well.
I think we should not at all rule out the crankshaft position sensor. While looking thru the troubleshooting it is having you first check to make sure the coil is even getting voltage. ( We are on the same page about coil #1 being at front on engine on the back bank of cylinders?) If it is then the very next step is to check the crankshaft position sensor. Checking that early in the troubleshooting is usually a good sign that it could very well be the issure. Sensoris onlybeing directed to check if the code set is P0351orP0356 only. Other cylinders do not seem to trigger that inspecton. That may not be a bad step to just replace as is fairly easily accessed at front of engine and retails for only $25.09 from dealer. Just a thought.
OE part number for the crank sensor is gy07-18-221a by the way if interested.

 

Yesterday, i took all coils out, and start swapping it. Coil #1 is on the passenger side in the back bank of the engine block (near the firewall).
Can you tell me how do i check if the coil is getting voltage? Using a multimeter?
I will check CPS when I get home. n Thanks.

 

To check and see if the coil is getting voltage, unplug the #1 coil connector, then turn the ignition switch to on position. Multimeter on DC volts position, Black lead at negative battery terminal, Red lead on wire that is White with Violet stripe. Should see battery voltage. Same test can be applied to all six coils if needed as the wire color and voltage infrom PCM power relay is the same color at each coil. The other wire at each coil are all different colors but all go to the PCM where the wire is grounded whenever spark is needed from that coil.
To test the Crankshaft Position Sensor, you would again unplug the sensor which is located just forward of the crankshaft pulley and between the A/C compressor. It is mounted in the timing chain cover so you will only see the top electrical connecion portion. Set meter on resistance or ohms setting and touch the black lead to one pin on the sensor and red lead to other pin of the sensor being carefull not to let them touch. Is a tight fit in there so may just be easier to remove the sensor and test on the bench. Resistance should be between 290-390 ohms.
If both of these tests are ok then plug the coil and crank sensor back in. Use a small pin and insert into the backside of the connector at the wirethat is Lightgreen with white stripe at the #1 coil connector. Touch a 12 volts test light on this pin. Light should be flashing as the engine is being cranked. This is testing both the fact that the coil is getting voltage and it is being grounded by the PCM when spark from the coil is needed.
Sounds like you already have a multimeter or DVOM ( Digital Volt Ohm Meter ) but if not then are readily available at any parts store or radio shack. Link to a relatively inexpensive one at radioshack below that will be able to perform pretty much any kind of electrical testing you would need to do.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

 

To check and see if the coil is getting voltage, unplug the #1 coil connector, then turn the ignition switch to on position. Multimeter on DC volts position, Black lead at negative battery terminal, Red lead on wire that is White with Violet stripe. Should see battery voltage. < I tested and it shown 11.51 for all connectors.

To test the Crankshaft Position Sensor, you would again unplug the sensor which is located just forward of the crankshaft pulley and between the A/C compressor. It is mounted in the timing chain cover so you will only see the top electrical connecion portion. Set meter on resistance or ohms setting and touch the black lead to one pin on the sensor and red lead to other pin of the sensor being carefull not to let them touch. Is a tight fit in there so may just be easier to remove the sensor and test on the bench. Resistance should be between 290-390 ohms. < haven't done it because it's very hard to get to.