ok i have a 1998 svt mustang cobra full flowmasters and a pro 5.0 short shifter 83k miles and this dudes wants to trade me a 1994 rx7 PEP Model ?? (is there anything different about that model ?) it has pretty many things done to it i want a rx7 but dont know to much about them

heres the list
Tein Coilvers
Fluidyne Radiator
Petit Unlimited ECU
Greddy Intakes
3 inch catless downpipe
3 inch midpipe with high flow Catco Converter
Apex-i GT Spec Catback
Auto meter Oil Pressure, Water Temp and Boost 52mm gauges in a center speaker pod.
ACT Street Clutch,
Power Steering Delete, AC Delete, AST Delete (I do have the ps pump and lines)
Hawk HP+ Brake pads
B&M Shifter
Apexi Turbo Timer
Optima Redtop relocated to the passenger storage bin
The stock head unit has been replaced with a Pioneer DEH-P8MP.
The car also had a compete vacuum hose job
The front also has a R1 lip


heres a pic




heres the stang

 

personally, i would trade, depending on the miles and shape of the motor. if it pulls strong, doesn't leak, and everything works mechanically, i would definitely do it. i am sure that it is faster than that year cobra and, IMO, more fun to drive. i have driven both and i like the balance of the rx7 better. the mustang seems more front heavy and a little more clumsy.

i haven't heard of the PEP model and it doesn't really look any different to me than the normal TT model.

 

It pains me to see that people rip out A/C and PS on serious cars like this...honestly, that's something you do to a 1986 CRX when you've got no money to spend on the engine, not an FD RX7.

If the conditions our rotary buff above me are met, then it's probably a good deal for you. Personally, though, I'd be wary of any car whose power steering has been torn out...from my experienced, those cars get beaten. And it certainly looks like that RX7 needs new paint, at least.

 

if the power steering has been removed by swapping for a manual rack, it is an upgrade in a few different ways. the manual rack is more turns from click to click, but feels better, IMO, and there is no chance of a manual rack completely failing if a belt breaks. the pump is fairly taxing on even a torquey motor, but rotary engines don't produce large amounts of torque. that means that it is really taxing on that motor.

check the rack to see if it has any cast iron parts that have holes which have been plugged. if it does, check for the availability of a new manual rack and get ready for the swap. if the rack is smooth and it looks like it was rolled out of a single piece of metal, it has been manual swapped.

 

Learn more about rotaries every day.

I can't imagine it being anywhere near a comfortable DD though.

 

The PEP = Performance Equipped Package. Essentially a base touring package with some addons.