Oil Pan Removal Tips?
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Oil Pan Removal Tips?
I'm looking to see if there are any tips to remove my oil pan from my 2000 Protege 1.6. I've already gone further than I could have possibly guessed with this rebuild using a Haynes manual (which I have since noticed is completly wrong in many accounts) and have now come to a standstill. I don't have a good way of pulling the engine, so any tips would be helpful. Yes, the shield on the tranny is removed, as well as all bolts. It seems the sealer on there is as strong as a weld. I've tried rubber mallet beatings, razor knife between the pan and block (no room to get the blade started), chisel between the same without a budge.
I strongly suspect a rod bearing on #4...but need to crack this darn thing to get to it. Please don't tell me I have to pull the thing somehow!
Thanks in advance.
I strongly suspect a rod bearing on #4...but need to crack this darn thing to get to it. Please don't tell me I have to pull the thing somehow!
Thanks in advance.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 28
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Hi - since this post is a few days old, I will assume you still have the issue. If not, hope you got the pan off without damaging it.
first off, you don't need to pull the engine. Secondly, yes, the adhesive/sealant that was used from the factory is a b*#^& to get to break loose. When I did a similar job to remove the pan, I believe I worked a thin metal gasket scraper (the kind with a handle) CAREFULLY into the front corner of the pan area (along the side closest to the radiator) and slowly tapped and tweaked back and forth until I could just get another small blade screwdriver into the small gap created next to it and work my way leapfrog style slowly towards the back. I did bend down the corner of the pan slightly to get things started, but was able to correct that once the pan was off.
Mazda service manual shows a special separator tool that gets tapped into and along the small gap between the pan and bearing support plate that is sandwiched between the pan and engine block, but how many of us have one of those just sitting in the toolbox?
Once the pan is off, you still have the main bearing support plate to unbolt and pry off, but it should come off a little easier using a similar technique.
Key is to go slowly (as if you have a choice) and be as careful with the lip of the pan (and support plate) as possible. Easier said than done....Good Luck
Jim
first off, you don't need to pull the engine. Secondly, yes, the adhesive/sealant that was used from the factory is a b*#^& to get to break loose. When I did a similar job to remove the pan, I believe I worked a thin metal gasket scraper (the kind with a handle) CAREFULLY into the front corner of the pan area (along the side closest to the radiator) and slowly tapped and tweaked back and forth until I could just get another small blade screwdriver into the small gap created next to it and work my way leapfrog style slowly towards the back. I did bend down the corner of the pan slightly to get things started, but was able to correct that once the pan was off.
Mazda service manual shows a special separator tool that gets tapped into and along the small gap between the pan and bearing support plate that is sandwiched between the pan and engine block, but how many of us have one of those just sitting in the toolbox?
Once the pan is off, you still have the main bearing support plate to unbolt and pry off, but it should come off a little easier using a similar technique.
Key is to go slowly (as if you have a choice) and be as careful with the lip of the pan (and support plate) as possible. Easier said than done....Good Luck
Jim
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