Alternater Removal
#1
08-22-2009, 05:36 PM
Hi everyone Im new here and I have tryed seach but came up with nothing that I could use.
My problem is that my car died. I replaced the Bat. the car was good for a bit now died on the hwy going to work on fri. So everyone is saying alternater. So my question to you guys that work on cars all the time is how do I remove this alt on this car.
(I have done this before on other cars that Ive owned but this one looks like its gunna be hard.)
How do I go about it ?
Thanks for your help guys.
Sorry guys. Its a 2003 2.0l Protege.
My problem is that my car died. I replaced the Bat. the car was good for a bit now died on the hwy going to work on fri. So everyone is saying alternater. So my question to you guys that work on cars all the time is how do I remove this alt on this car.
(I have done this before on other cars that Ive owned but this one looks like its gunna be hard.)
How do I go about it ?
Thanks for your help guys.
Sorry guys. Its a 2003 2.0l Protege.
Last edited by virgin1; 06-26-2012 at 05:51 PM.
#2
08-22-2009, 10:18 PM
Before "deep sixing" your alternator, check your battery grounds, especially the one on the passenger side which grounds the engine block, the drive belt condition and tension, make sure they're right. Next (or while doing this), get your battery recharged, or arrange for a battery boost on startup. Give things a whirl and then see if you get more than 14 volts on the battery posts with the engine at a fast idle, and that the alternator warning light is off. If so, you're good to go with the existing alternator.
If at fast idle the battery voltage is down around 12 - 12.5 volts or less, and/or the alternator warning light is on, a bad alternator is now a reasonable call.
A couple of warnings:
1. Before tackling the alternator removal, get one of those little brass-bristled suede brushes and a spray can of WD-40, releasol, or jigaloo, and soak the bracket hardware and tensioner screw; use the suede brush to get rid of the dirt and rust on the tensioner screw threads, and loosen the bracket bolts before backing off the tension, otherwise you have a good chance of snapping the tension adjuster bolt.
2. Once the alternator is replaced, don't waste your time trying to see if it works unless you first ensure that your battery is fully charged or that you are running with booster cables to another car. The reason for this is that the alternator needs to have a minimum of 12 volts on its exciter terminal or it just won't fire up, leaving you thinking you've just been ripped off to the tune of $250.
There are three schools of thought about alternator extraction: (a) out the top, (b) from the bottom, and (c) a small but vocal minority who swear by leaving the bastard where it is and dismantling the car from around it.
Before doing the extraction, use the time for waiting for the penetration oil to work, the battery to charge, or whatever, to take a break and go treat yourself to a nice manicure, and savor the look of your elegant hands and nails, because after you've manhandled that sonofabitch of an alternator out and got its replacement in, your hands and fingernails are going to need a month or more to recover.
So, to cut to the chase, the secret to removing the alternator is cunning, brute force, and foul language. Good luck, and I hope it was just the drive belt.
If at fast idle the battery voltage is down around 12 - 12.5 volts or less, and/or the alternator warning light is on, a bad alternator is now a reasonable call.
A couple of warnings:
1. Before tackling the alternator removal, get one of those little brass-bristled suede brushes and a spray can of WD-40, releasol, or jigaloo, and soak the bracket hardware and tensioner screw; use the suede brush to get rid of the dirt and rust on the tensioner screw threads, and loosen the bracket bolts before backing off the tension, otherwise you have a good chance of snapping the tension adjuster bolt.
2. Once the alternator is replaced, don't waste your time trying to see if it works unless you first ensure that your battery is fully charged or that you are running with booster cables to another car. The reason for this is that the alternator needs to have a minimum of 12 volts on its exciter terminal or it just won't fire up, leaving you thinking you've just been ripped off to the tune of $250.
There are three schools of thought about alternator extraction: (a) out the top, (b) from the bottom, and (c) a small but vocal minority who swear by leaving the bastard where it is and dismantling the car from around it.
Before doing the extraction, use the time for waiting for the penetration oil to work, the battery to charge, or whatever, to take a break and go treat yourself to a nice manicure, and savor the look of your elegant hands and nails, because after you've manhandled that sonofabitch of an alternator out and got its replacement in, your hands and fingernails are going to need a month or more to recover.
So, to cut to the chase, the secret to removing the alternator is cunning, brute force, and foul language. Good luck, and I hope it was just the drive belt.
#3
08-22-2009, 11:18 PM
Thanks oldeng.
The bat was replaced about a week agao the belts are fine and the radio fades with a sweek from the alternater. So that is why Im going for it. (the alternater)
What I need to know is does it come out through the top of the engine or the bottum ?
And what am I gunna need to put out of the way. It doesnt look like it will be a normal 15 min. job.
And dont worry about my nails.....the get babyed like me every now and again. LOL.
The bat was replaced about a week agao the belts are fine and the radio fades with a sweek from the alternater. So that is why Im going for it. (the alternater)
What I need to know is does it come out through the top of the engine or the bottum ?
And what am I gunna need to put out of the way. It doesnt look like it will be a normal 15 min. job.
And dont worry about my nails.....the get babyed like me every now and again. LOL.
#4
08-23-2009, 12:11 AM
... There are three schools of thought about alternator extraction: (a) out the top, (b) from the bottom, and (c) a small but vocal minority who swear by leaving the bastard where it is and dismantling the car from around it.
Before doing the extraction, use the time for waiting for the penetration oil to work, the battery to charge, or whatever, to take a break and go treat yourself to a nice manicure, and savor the look of your elegant hands and nails, because after you've manhandled that sonofabitch of an alternator out and got its replacement in, your hands and fingernails are going to need a month or more to recover.
So, to cut to the chase, the secret to removing the alternator is cunning, brute force, and foul language. Good luck, and I hope it was just the drive belt.
Before doing the extraction, use the time for waiting for the penetration oil to work, the battery to charge, or whatever, to take a break and go treat yourself to a nice manicure, and savor the look of your elegant hands and nails, because after you've manhandled that sonofabitch of an alternator out and got its replacement in, your hands and fingernails are going to need a month or more to recover.
So, to cut to the chase, the secret to removing the alternator is cunning, brute force, and foul language. Good luck, and I hope it was just the drive belt.
I'm glad I'm not the ONLY one around here with a sense of humor. I would feel.... so alone.
'Nother great post, oldeng!! And good advice too.
Last edited by virgin1; 08-23-2009 at 08:01 AM. Reason: spelling correction
#5
08-23-2009, 07:35 AM
To MazdaGirl'03 and Virgin 1; If you think there's anything funny about getting an alternator out of a Mazda, you've obviously never done it!
I have a '99 Protege 1.8L LX 5 speed and the applicable 2000 year shop manual. I looked for alternator in the index and found no entry, so I just did it.
I got mine out the top by just about gutting everything in sight and also risking breaking the AC piping that runs across the firewall. After I finished the job I discovered the shop manual had the alternator described as a generator in the index, and beyond listing 4 basic strip down items (wiring, mounting bolts, tensioner, belt), you were left high and dry. I do remember stubby wrenches were handy, and swearing that was the last time I'd ever yank an alternator.
A mechanic later told me that getting it out from below was the best way to go.
I have a '99 Protege 1.8L LX 5 speed and the applicable 2000 year shop manual. I looked for alternator in the index and found no entry, so I just did it.
I got mine out the top by just about gutting everything in sight and also risking breaking the AC piping that runs across the firewall. After I finished the job I discovered the shop manual had the alternator described as a generator in the index, and beyond listing 4 basic strip down items (wiring, mounting bolts, tensioner, belt), you were left high and dry. I do remember stubby wrenches were handy, and swearing that was the last time I'd ever yank an alternator.
A mechanic later told me that getting it out from below was the best way to go.
#6
08-23-2009, 07:59 AM
No Sir, I don't find very much is funny about working on late model cars. And I do a lot of swearing when I do work on them.
But I found the way you worded your post, and the scenarios in it funny.
As has been said many, many times, there is always an aire of truth in comedy, and much comedy to be found in any truth... if you look.
