hello Everyone
I am new to the Mazda forum site but I understand how it works because I use Volvo forums quite frequently. I have a problem with my 98 Mazda Protege 1.5 liter DOHC. About a week ago I drove my car to Arby's for lunch about 2 miles and it drove fine on the way there, but as soon as I tries to leave the drivethru window I put my car (manual) in first gear and it stalled out I restarted the car easily and tried to take off and it kept trying to stall unless I would rev the engine to a high RPM. It would do this in 1st and 2md or if I full throttled 3rd, 4th and 5th don't seem to be effected but it's not a transmission problem anywasy. I ama decent mechanic so my first thought was to check fuel pressure to see if the fuel pump was going bad, the full pressure was fine as well as fuel volume, my next step I was kindof stumped so I decided to check that the cadilitic converter was not clogged. (Oh my bad I forgot to say that symptoms do not occur unless car is at operating tempurature) The converters not clogged the fuel pumpis good and now after a week of trying to figure out what is wrong with the car it finally threw a code P1195 I know this code pertains to my EGR but before I go and put a whole bunch of money in trying to throw parts at this car I figured I would try to get some expert advise.

 

clean the egr to start since you are pulling that code. just pull the egr off and clean it with engine degreaser and a toothbrush before you re-install.

 

I cleaned the egr, throtle body and the intake I'm still having the same problem stalling out when it gets up to operating temp and seting code 1195
Is ther a way to test the egr controler or actuater what ever it is thats attach to the egr I dont think its working properly.
I took it off to make shure that the egr would move and was clean it would and it is the system was dirty but not cloged.
(tested by blowing ait therew all ports)

 

kind of a head scratcher here. i would have to say to look into the ignition system. could be coils, wires, plugs, etc. i don't know why it would pull that code (pertaining to emissions) if it was the ignition system. it may be a problem with one or more of the sensors. while it is running and at operating temp, unplug one sensor and see if it runs any different. if it doesn't change at all, it may be that sensor that is bad.

 

my ford focus was doing the exact same thing your car was doing i changed my pvc hose going from the intake manifold to the pcv valve in the exhaust manifold it had a vaccum leak in it and the hose was really weak so it kept compressing the hose together and sufficating it, but check that out, that might be your problem.

 

I changed the pcv and it didnt chang I didnt do anything with the ignitions system yet because I dont see why that would set code 1195 plus I do a compleat tune up every summer
any other Idea let me know

 

did you change the hose? or the pcv valve? cause the hose is what i suggested to look at. but besides that one of your sensors might be durty like the tps or the mass - flow but yeah im out of idea's cause you already looked at everything else i would suggest lol.

 

I did replace the hose because it was only $0.50
what would happen if the egr was stuck closed?

 

if i remember correctly, the P1195 code was for MAP/EGR boost sensor malfunction. trace the vaccum line back to the intake manifold
(should end up behind the throttle body, on the firewall side) remove the hose and clean the carbon out of the metal nipple using a small drill
bit (by hand!!) dont worry if any carbon falls into the intake. this can also cause a p0400/p0401 code

 

wow you hit the nail on the head
I found that hose last night and it was completly cloged I dont know how I missed it befor
I cleaned it out and the car still ran bad
I traced the hose to the Iac and I have vacume from the side but not the bottom
I know the bottom hose goes to the boost senser I tryed to clean the Iac but I dont know if you should be able to feel a vacume at the bottom hose or not
let me know what you think