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96 Protege 1.5L HELP!!!!
Okay so last year in August i started my car and put my foot on the gas. i kept it on there for about 5 mins or some like that . it cut off and i started it back. cut off. started again, cut off. tried to start again it wouldn't start but it fired and the rpms started going up and down. and i stopped. i knew my battery was bad but i didnt change it till 2 days ago because i just turned 15 and thought that was the problem. tried to crank it 2 days ago and it cranked but it cut off. tried to crank it again but i had to press the gas very quickly numerous of times to keep it from cutting off but when i tried to put it in drive, it cut off. i got a gas jug and put some gas in it thinking it needed more gas but that didn't help. any ideas on where to start??
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Here:
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...official+guide Start checking, (not replacing right away) the things that are listed there. Get a battery charger and keep your battery charged. Report the things you did according to that guide and what happened after this. Your starting system works. So you don't get enough spark or not enough fuel or the timing belt is broken. By the way, the owner's manual is just about useless. Get a Haynes manual for about $20. I am glad to help out a 15 year old kid who shows some initiative! |
Originally Posted by tanprotege
(Post 136980)
Here:
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...official+guide Start checking, (not replacing right away) the things that are listed there. Get a battery charger and keep your battery charged. Report the things you did according to that guide and what happened after this. Your starting system works. So you don't get enough spark or not enough fuel or the timing belt is broken. By the way, the owner's manual is just about useless. Get a Haynes manual for about $20. I am glad to help out a 15 year old kid who shows some initiative! |
ohh and i forgot to say that after the 1st time it cut off, the O/D light started to blink on and off on my instrument cluster.
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Originally Posted by daquane25
(Post 136989)
ohh and i forgot to say that after the 1st time it cut off, the O/D light started to blink on and off on my instrument cluster.
In another thread you were asking about checking the fuel pump. The best way is to check the fuel pressure with a gauge. You can also listen for a hum when you turn on the ignition without turning the engine over. The hum would indicate that the fuel pump gets electrical current. It won' tell you if it gets enough pressure. Pinching the fuel return line to flood the engine is a quick and dirty way to check for fuel pressure. Of course the engine needs to run first. The dangers are that you may bust a line or the fuel pressure regulator.. Here is a schematic: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/35...7_efi_fuel.jpg So you can see if you use a pair of pliers on the rubber fuel return line you can increase the pressure in the fuel rail. I cannot recommend this because I have never done this. Please make sure all electrical items are functioning properly. |
Originally Posted by tanprotege
(Post 137009)
When the OverDrive light blinks there is something wrong with the transmission or torque converter. It could be something simple, like low on fluid or a disconnected harness, or it could spell real trouble.
In another thread you were asking about checking the fuel pump. The best way is to check the fuel pressure with a gauge. You can also listen for a hum when you turn on the ignition without turning the engine over. The hum would indicate that the fuel pump gets electrical current. It won' tell you if it gets enough pressure. Pinching the fuel return line to flood the engine is a quick and dirty way to check for fuel pressure. Of course the engine needs to run first. The dangers are that you may bust a line or the fuel pressure regulator.. Here is a schematic: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/35...7_efi_fuel.jpg So you can see if you use a pair of pliers on the rubber fuel return line you can increase the pressure in the fuel rail. I cannot recommend this because I have never done this. Please make sure all electrical items are functioning properly. |
Daquane: so your car hasn't been running for almost 2 years and you have the old fuel in the tank?
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There is a possibility that there is old fuel still inside there, however, I've added more since then.
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Also, I recently bought an bluetooth obd2 reader from Amazonhttp://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51tItyls%2BsL.jpg and this app from googleplay called Torque pro: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...l.torque&hl=en I tested my car for fault codes by hooking it to my car and turning my key to the on position just passed the accessory position and it connected fine, but didn't get anything back. I always thought that cars send out fault codes whenever it doesn't start, so I was sure that I would get one. To test this reader out, I disconnected the maf sensor harness and got P0100 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Malfunction. Did I check for fault codes correctly?
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Duquane:
I don't know about the bluetooth stuff. Old fuel degrades and causes precipitate, gruddy stuff that goes to the bottom of the tank or where ever it is standing around. It is possible that the filter at the fuel pum intake (sock) is clogged up. Fresh fuel would not help that. It is also possible that the inline fuel filter is clogged up. I would first determine if the fuel pump makes a noise when you turn the key. If there is no noise then you need to check if there is power at the fuel pump. There are some videos that will help you "getting the picture". Go to Youtube and type in: "Mazda fuel pump". Don't worry if it is not exactly the same model as yours. They are all very similar. i.e: |
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