OK here is the deal i got the car and it ran fine for the first month then the problems began. It bogs down at freeway speeds when speeding up to switch lanes, after bogging down the motor catches up and starts to drive fine. When i shift between gears and press the gas the engine boggs down, almost like the car is being flooded with gas, in fact it smells like it too. At stop lights i gotta rev it to keep the motor running, it acts like it is not getting enough spark, it does a backfire type thing. I replaced all the wires, plugs, cap and rotor, air filter, pcv, radiator was leaking so i replaced that too, the engine light blinks 9, which is coolent temp switch and 17 which is oxygen sensor is reading rich or lean. If the car does die on me it is hard as hell to start back up almost like it isnt getting spark to burn the gas. and then *** it starts back up it sounds like its running on three cylinders untill about 4000 rpm then it evens out and stops blowing thick exaust that smells like unburned fule.

I was told that the oem mazda cap and rotor have a certain resistance so they get the right spark, is this true??? could that be the problem? i used a friggin autozone cap and rotor, which i know dont work with VWs, you have to use the oem replacements with vollkswagens. could this also be true with MAZDA?

As an admitted HONDA & VW fanatic i trust you mazda guys to help me find the solution to this problem that has been plauging my poor car for about 2 months.

HELP!!! PLEASE!!!!!

 

I would check the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail to see if the diaphragm is ruptured. If it is, then un-metered fuel can enter the engine and run very rich. Just pull the vacuum hose off while its idling and see if any fuel comes out.

As for non-oem Mazda caps, they are not the best but will work. I have never heard of "certain resistance" caps. There should be no resistance between the inner and outer part of the post if checked by a DVOM.