Locate and open the"Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's by the firewall. The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way)and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together. Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)

Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero)as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another. The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed bythe 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.

List of codes and what they correspond to:
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03 'G' camshaft position sensor.
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor
05 Knock sensor
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 LHO2S (Left Hand Oxygen Sensor) inactivation error
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17 LHO2S inversion error
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26 Canister purge solenoid
28 EGR vacuum solenoid
29 EGR vent solenoid
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41 VRIS #1 solenoid
46 VRIS #2 solenoid
67 Electrical Cooling Fan Relay #2
69 Water Thermosensor (fan)

 

Ok, I found the TEN and the GND area and inserted a paperclip into them, but I have no idea where you read the codes at. Help!

 

CEL = Check Engine Light

Watch the CEL to see how many times it flashes.

 

a long flash means 10, a short one means 1

long +long + short +short + short=23

 

ok, I had code 46 which is VRIS #2 solenoid. I have no idea what that means, but I'll look it up and as always I could use your input.

Edit: So, now I know what it is, and I figure it's just something that should be replaced, right? Also, I can't find any for sale. Anyone know of a website where I might find a VRIS #2 solenoid valve?

 

replace or repair?

 

so is that the VRIS solenoid valve #2 that I need? I haven't had a change to look at it yet, I just got the code and looked it up in chiltons. I'm having a HARD time finding one on the web! When I take it out and examine it I will have a better idea. In the meantime is it the same as this?

MAZDA PROTEGE 626 MILLENIA EGR VACUUM SWITCH SOLENOID VALVE K5T49091 FS05

 

I do not know. I posted the video in the hope you might be able to fix the solenoids you have.

 

Tanprotege, that problem is usually caused by carelessness when removing the solenoid off the Intake Manifold. Or knobbing the backside of the IM, "looking" with your hands.

Bengal, If the code popped points to the VRIS #2 solenoid then simply try moving the actuator arm first, sometimes they stick after sitting for extended periods of time. But if not, be very careful when removing the old vacuum lines from everything, they are all going to be brittle and cause damage like you saw above if removed incorrectly. Since your going to be taking the IM off anyway, I would wait until then to remove the VRIS solenoid.

 

Thanks Mech/Tan, The solenoid is in one piece and I don't see any breaks. I'm going to do some more work on it today and then do the gasket on Wednesday when my son can help me. I am doing very well considering what I went through just 5 weeks ago, but not at 100% yet, and the heat can really get to me. But like you said Tan, there is no rush and just take my time and use this as a learning experience.

You both have been a great help (and I hope you continue); I really appreciate it.

BB