Mazda MX-3 and Mazda MX-6 These two sporty models have become popular cars for import tuners due to the availability of parts, the low price, and the smooth lines.

mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

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  #1  
Old 04-10-2007, 11:47 AM
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Default mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

Getting ready to replace my valve cover gaskets ('93 MX6-LS). Been looking at http://www.rockauto.comsite for parts, but not sure what part to purchase. Felpro # VS50426R has the gaskets and grommets, isolators for $80. These parts look like the bolts that attach the cover but mine are 10mm hex bolts and the Felpro look to be allen fittings. I also see Beck/Arnley # 0361507 is just the gasket, but on the http://www.rockauto.comsite it says 4 are required. I am hoping this is a missprint and that it is only 2 that are required.

More to the point:
Are the grommets/isolators necessary or can I reuse my old ones?
What gasket/brand part numbers should I get?
Do I need to drain the coolant to pull the intake manifold?
Do I need to coat the entire gasket with sealer and if so what kind?

I am planning on using new intake manifold gaskets
thanks
 
  #2  
Old 04-12-2007, 12:07 PM
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Default RE: mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

After further research it looks like the Beck/arnley gasket set will do both valve covers. Only one kit is needed (not 4 which is a misprint). Dont need the extra stuff that comes in the Felpro kit. Still not sure about using a sealer, but I did find out that silicone sealers will kill your O2 sensors under certain conditions. Basically you dont want to have the silicone exposed to any oil which could get vaporized and land on the sensors. Also not sure if you have to drain the radiator to do this job. I suppose if the intake manifold does not carry coolant, then the answer is no drain needed.
 
  #3  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:58 PM
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Default RE: mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

I sent you an email about your question on valve covers replacing. Use the new bolts and you do not have to drain the colant just plug to lines from the throtalbody lines. check ebay for the gaskets and you can get a complete set of all gasketts for under $50.00
 
  #4  
Old 04-15-2007, 12:10 PM
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Default RE: mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

ORIGINAL: adams9663

Use the new bolts and you do not have to drain the colant just plug to lines from the throtalbody lines. check ebay for the gaskets and you can get a complete set of all gasketts for under $50.00
I found some VC gasketson eBay for $22 after shipping, no bolts, but it does have the grommets (which turns out are just special washers to go under the bolts for extra sealing). Could not find an intake gasket, but got one at AAP for $17. Also just bought a Haynes manual for ~$16 at AAP.Looks to be pretty good.
Thanks for the tip on the throttle body gasket which may apply to my year.
 
  #5  
Old 04-25-2007, 01:54 PM
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Default RE: mx6 valve cover gasket replacement questions

I replaced myvalve covergaskets this weekend. What a job, but all in all it went pretty good. Here's my comments if you are going to do this yourself (there is much more to this procedure than what I am describing- this is just some gotchas, mostly):

Take some pix of your engine from a bunch of angles.

I did not label anything, although it is strongly recommended that you do so. Most of the connections looked like they were made to only fit one type and the way they are laid out, it is mostly obvious where they go during re-assembly. The vacuum hoses are bit more of a concern so you may want to label these. I did not need my pictures to re-assemble.

It may be possible to leave the throttle body connected to the intake (saving 10$ on a gasket), but I ended up taking it off to make it easier to get to some other stuff. Had to disconnect one heater hose in that area too. The big vacuum line and one small water hose to the TB are a bit of a hassle to get loose but must be removed to get the TB out of the way.

On the firewall side, you basically have to remove everything attached to the intake. If it is bolted on, take it off. Someone mentioned a "bitch" bolt and it definitely exists! I got everything disconnected but the intake would not come off, it just rocked back and forth. After using a mirror, I found the "bitch" bolt (middle of the intake at the firewall, under the metal vacuum line) and was able to work it loose. That bolt is overkill and not necessary so I left it off on the install.

There is one vacuum line under the intake still connected that you will see once you pull the intake up. You can disconnect it as the intake is being removed. This line is a bit difficult to re-attach when putting it back together. It may help to replace this line with one a bit longer (maybe 3-4 inches longer).

There is a 6" length of5/8" water hose running down the center under the intake. I replaced this once the intake was removed for a little extra insurance as it is impossible to do with the intake on.

You will need RTV sealer on the vc gaskets only and just in a few obviousplaces (not onthe whole gasket!!)

I put some of that dielectric compound on all my connectors. AAP has this stuff

Hope this helps
 
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