I am hearing this annoying click click sound coming from inside the dash instrument panel. Anybody know what it is and/or how to get it to stop. Thanks

Slowly going crazy.

 

Need to know year & model? There're several bulletins on this problem.

 

i have 95 and people i know with mpv have the same problem.

well, i can't really say it's a problem when mazda don't think it's a problem.

i change thicker thickness oil and it has gone down a lot quieter.

i also add higher octane of fuel in it and runs a bit better with less noise.

 

i'm having a similar problem with my 05 6s. do you know what could be making the noise?

 

Way too different problems in two different vehicles. The older MPV probably has hydraulic lifters collapsing that makes noise especially on cold start condition. Our 91 van clatters a bit sometimes on cold start but goes away within minutes. This noise is due to the hydraulic valve lifters not pumping up on start up. You can spend some $ and get updated lifters,rails,rockers but I choose to live the noise at this point. Noise from 05 Mazda 6 does not follow same problem. If you are getting a tapping noise especially after warm up then take to dealer with this complaint and there is a "fix".

 

i live with it and it hasn't hurt a bit yet.

using thicker oil does help though!!!

 

dude,

it's funny when you say your car is running fine and stuff, the next thing the big **** just happen.

this morning when my parents drove the car out on the freeway, the check engine light all of sudden pop up. for about 30 seconds

after that, POOF!!!! a smoke came out of the engine bay. anyways, they got the car toe back and at first i suspected the engine might

just blew. when i pop the hood, i see nothing but engine oil.... i suspected that was oil. later i check that wasn't oil at all. it was just

dirty coolent that's so dirty and it looks like oil. at this point i've only done cleaning the engine bay so that even if there is problem i

can find out where it's leaking from. i haven't take anything apart yet. i've only look visually at the top of the engie bay. i see now

signs of cracks on hoses. i fill up with water and still no leaking. the coolent was low so i filled that up. the tempterature of the car will

just to 3/4 of the gauge in 1.2 miles.

huey, can you guess what might be the problem??

 

I would assume that the CEL coming on and engine overheating would be related but possibly not. If you can retrieve the code it may tell us a little more. To do this have the key off and locate the diagnosis connector under the hood. It will be just to the rear of the air cleaner housing and should say diagnose. will post a picture of box but is not for your van (only for reference to find). open the box and on the underside of the cover you should see a diagram of the exposed connector under the lid. You want to use a paper clip or jumper wire and ground the terminal marked TEN. Will post one of this as well. With that terminal grounded. Turn the key on and watch the CEL. I will flash you out a one or two digit code. Tens are a long flash, Ones are a short flash. (ie code 9 would be 9 short flashes with a pause and then repeats. 26 would be 2 long flashes followed by 6 short with a pause and then repeat. Check this code out if you would.
Sounds like you had a very bad case of overheating and probably blew a crack in the radiator top tank. They usually crack below that black intake pipe that goes to the bottom of the air cleaner housing. Remove the 2 10 mm bolts that attach this to the upper rad tank and check right under it. Also the radiator fills very slowly. It may look full but keep SLOWLY pouring in coolant untill it starts to overflow. If coolant was in this bad of condition.[:'(] then may have multiple problems. The thermostat may be rusted closed. Or possible damage to the water pump impeller. The older JE engines on the MPV and 929 used a plastic impeller and have seen then break a number of time and then you loose all coolant flow thru the engine and overheats. Even if yours is metal it may be rusted off judging by the rusty goo in the radiator. Hope has been some help. Let know what you may find.

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so far i found out that the radiator blew.

i replace the radiator and then check the part where the holes are connect. i unbolt 4 screws and saw one of the blew plastic part off the radiator. right now it seems fine but i haven't really drive it. what can cost a radiator to blow in the first place?? can dirty radiator fluid cost it to stock/ not flowing??

 

Not real sure I understood what 'saw one of the blew plastic part off the radiator' meant but am assuming the radiator top tank did in fact have a crack in it? Yes dirty radiator fluid can cause a radiator to stop flowing. The brown you are seeing is rust that will also start clogging the new radiator unless cleaned and flushed out well. The thermostat is also very sensitive to this rust contamination. Many things can cause a radiator to blow but boil down to basically two. Age and poor condition coolant will deteriorate the plastic and metal parts until it cracks. The more common is bad overheating that builds pressure super fast in the system as the coolant boils and the fastest place that pressure can escape is an already weakened plastic radiator tank of soft hose.