The TCS and ABS are one unit. The TCM is under the drivers side dash. I finally got a good one from a salvage yard out of New York for $200, but it does the exact same thing as the original. All the diagnostics that I did for mine told me to replace the ABS/TCS HU Module, so I did and it was not the problem and Istill have not figured it out. Did you read my other post on Code P0725?

 

Yes, I did. I read all of it.
I found a salvaged unit, I will be getting it by the end of the week.
Is this simple to do that I can do my self, or better to pay somebody $250 toswapit?

Thanks again.

 

Pretty simple really, just be carefull breaking the brake lines loose! Remove the battery and tray, both lines from thebrake master cylinder, disconnect the wiring harness, 4 brake lines from the unit, and 4 bolts that hold the bracket. I can do mine in about 1/2 hr. Just be carefull with the brake lines!

 

Nice pic in the New Member Area buddy.
I had a 2000 Milly Sin this morning with CEL on and too much time on my hands so dug down into the ABS/TCC module area. That connector is a bugger to get to thru the spaghetti mess of brake lines. I took the gray plastic top cover off of the connector backprobed the rpm signal wire and checked voltage and things at it for some reference on your beast.
This is the Green w/ Blue stripe wire. I think I remember that you did not have one of that color so here goes. Looking at the backside of the connector where the wires all enter, with the four large diameter wires for power and ground on the left and locking pivot thingy on the top. On the row closest to the pivot lock, start at the first small wire next to the group of large diameter ones and count three over. Wires should be
White w/ Green stripe, Green w/ Black stripe and then the rpm wire which on mine was Green w/ Blue stripe. Gray w/ Black stripe was fourth, etc. I noticed that the rpm signal wire was pulled fairly tight in the harness as was a mysterious Orange w/ Black stripe which was not in the wiring diagram. Good potential for wire getting broken internally being that tight. Anyway, backprobed with a small pin and then hooked up DVOM. Had 9.0 volts with Key on engine off. Started up and voltage dropped to a fairly steady 4.95-5.00 volts. Voltage did not change as the engine was revved up but stayed a steady 5.0. Switched over Fluke meter to read Hertz or Hz and got the following readings.
Hot idle of 700 rpm = 33Hz
1000 rpm = 49Hz
1500 rpm = 72Hz
2000 rpm = 96Hz
3000 rpm = 147Hz
4000 rpm = 195Hz

As you can see the Hz reading is a direct increase to rpm so that is the true signal.
Hope this will help if you have not already tried this. Here are a couple of not so great pics of the connector and wire. yellow mark on connector where wire is and painted the pin yellow too.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/C544C0C1698F4F6C9C85B7309935D05A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/B0FBED68B0464590946DFF8EE6C39CEE.jpg[/IMG]

 

I have checked the hertz readings before, but its be a while since I did it, and I plan to go throughall thediagnostics again!If you look at the wiring diagram for a 2000 Sand the diagnostics for a code 17 (C1117) the green/blue wire you are talking about is the one I checked for continuity and the diagnostics state to replace the PCM if it exists. It just so happens that wire has continuity.That wire is also the wire that is not green/blue like the wiring diagram shows. When I mark both the PCMand ABS Module connectors according to the diagrams which is #20 of the PCM and Sof the ABS Module the wire is a mediumgreen/silver dot. Confusing as hell HUH!That same wire also runs to the TCM. Im trying to find time to check all this again and appreciate all your help!I also plan to check theohms ateach wheel sensor, check for damage to the abs rings, check vehicle speed sensor, and instrument cluster.You wouldnthappen to know how to get the instrument cluster out of the dash?

 

From Babyhuey:
I see what you mean about checking the continuity of this wire between PCM pin 2O and ABS/TCS pin S and replacing the PCM if continuity does exist but this is also assuming that the prior step of getting a rpm signal output from the ABS is a no. No signal from ABS and yet continuity would indicate a faulty PCM and yet you would also have code P0725 from TCM for rpm signal loss and tachometer being inoperative as well so that is not necessarily the case. Can't always trust the flow charts.

System is working like this. PCM uses the input signal from the crankshaft position sensor to determine engine rpm. This rpm signal is then output from PCM pin 2O to the TCM, ABS/TCS module, instument cluster, and the data link connector. All of those components would be affected if the signal loss was at the PCM and yet on your car only the ABS/TCS is being affected.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the rpm signal wire exits the PCM and then in a very short distance, the wire is split 3 ways with probably a crimpin the harness. One branch of the wire goes to the data link connector, another goes to the ABS/TCS system, and last goes on to the X-13 connector which is just to the left area of where the PCM is located. After going thru the X-13 connector, it splits yet again. One branch of the wire going to the TCM and other to the instrument cluster. Possible that where that very fist branching is before the X-13 connector, the crimping was poorly done and wire is loose and making poor connection?? Might be worthwhile to open the PCM harness up and see if you can find where that wire branch is located and make sure connection is good. Would certainly cause what is happening to you with no other system being affected. Just a wild shot but not sure what else to think.
Looks like there are only two screw that hold the trim around the cluster. One is behind the dash light dimmer and other is under a hole cover on other side of column. Not showing any on the topside of the cluster opening but might want to double check there as well.

[IMG]local://upfiles/4740/9C7F450F3C8442398559FA02D99512F6.gif[/IMG]

 

I checked the continuity of the RPM wire (green/blue)from #20 of the PCMto the ABS/TCS Module, instrument cluster, DL1, and TCM. It appears that the wire has continuity everywhere and now I still need to check the Hertz and voltage.

From Babyhuey: That stinks Scott. Was hoping you were going to find no continuity to the ABS!!! Would still consider backprobing the wire at the ABS moduleand with everything all hooked up make sure that the voltage and hertz readings are good. Even try wiggling the harness here and there where the wire would be going thru the harness and see if your readings change or go away. The first splice in the wire should be between the PCM and the X-13. Sounds like you probably found it. The next splice is further on after the X-13 where it splits to go to the cluster and TCM. Does not go thru the cluster first as you were thinking. There is one more connector that the wire to the TCM goes thru. It is the X-23 and should be located up above the underdash fuse box. It is a 2 row, 16 wire connector on one side and 15 wires in the other. The two wire colors on oneend of the connecterare Black/Yellow stripe and Red/Green stripe. On the other side of the connector the two wires wouls be Black/White stripe and Red. The Black /White stripewire is only on one side of the connector. Other side is a blank hole or should be The rpm signal wire should be in the row and right next to the Red/Green stripe wire on the edge.

 

I just checked the Hertz and voltage readings of the RPM wire (green/blue) with it hooked up! The Hertz readings were almost identical to yours, and the voltage readings were 9.29V key off, 5.29V running and stayed steady. In the Worksop Manual-Brakes(No.7 TSC OFF LIGHT STAYS ON) step*4 it says to disconnect the ABS/TCS and if the light goes off(which mine does)replace the ABS/TCS HU/CM for short to ground. What can I check now?

 

Thanks to BabyHuey I think I got it fixed! I took the white plastic cover off the pin side of the ABS/TCS Module connector and carefully bent all the pin connectors with a safety pin so they would make better contact. I drove it last night and no TCS OFF or TCS light came on and now I can even control it with the button on the console! LIFE IS GREAT NOW!

 

Is there a difference in the TCS and the TSC or is that just a typo where you are talking about a TSC