Im a new user, I have a 2001 Mazda Millenia 2.5L v6. Its funny Im a mechanic but im still not sure whats the problem, i just want to know if someone is haveing or had the same problem so here i go. When i first bought the car about 7 months ago I had a clicking noise that got louder and louder in time, well i changed the ac and power steering belt and the sqeecky clicking noise went away and the car ran fine. Well the car has been slugish accelerating from a stop, I use Premium 93 and i changed my spark plugs about 2 months ago. I know it might be my Fuel filter, or need a fuel system cleaning, or spark-plug wires but im just wondering if someone has expierienced the same problem or have any advice to what i need to fix to help the slugeshness, and also my CEL is on and it has been on since i bought the car but never paid it any attention cause i always thought it was my knock sensor, but now its getting on my nerves looking at that damn sighn everytime i get in the car, if anyone has the same problem let me know what you did to fix it, i would apprieciate it a lot.

 

Go borrow a scanner (Murray's auto parts loans them out.) and find out what codes are tripped. That (most likely) will lead you to find the problem. It could be a number of things....If any of your sensors (02, MAF, IAC) have gone bad, then your ECM won't receive the right signals to keep the fuel/air mixture correct.

You're a mechanic and you were ignoring a tripped code?

 

Tbird does it like hestiate(yank/tremble) underneath the drivers side before you accelerate again. I'm saying this because this is the problem i'm currently having. I am really trying to figure out what my problem is as well. My check the engine light is on as well and it is annoying. I replaced the exhaust sensor and the light is still on but it smokes less at start up. let me tell them sensors are expensive. Would anyone recommend taking the car to autozone to get the codes checked out?
Ever since i got the car i have been hearing a screeching/whining noise at start up and then it goes away after a few seconds. It sounds like a belt rotating. What could this be, is this serious? I've had the car for over 2 years its a 97. My mazda dealer recommends changing the fuel filter every 30,000 miles and this is what I'm going to do right now. Is there a cheaper place to get good quality parts besides online mazda parts.com?

 

I've had decent luck getting maintenance parts at Murray's/Autozone, etc.

The screeching you are talking about sounds like a slipping belt. Change out the serpentine belt and I'd bet that the noise would go away. If the belt breaks you'll lose your power accessories (power steering/power brakes). I had this happen at 70 mph in the middle of a corner and it wasn't a fun ride.

If your check engine light is on, then definitely get the codes checked. You could be replacing perfectly good sensors by trying to fix it blind.

 

what abot taking it to autozone to get it checked out, cause you know the dealership is expensive. So if i go into an auto shop and can just ask for "slipping belt" like that (but i know w/ your car info). Remember this only happens at starups when i'm turning the ignition. sometimes the steering wheel feels very whobbly or loose, like if its lubricated too much. does this have anything to do with that?

 

A slipping belt wouldn't trip a code most likely. Ask for a serpentine belt for your model year car. Changing the belt isn't a big deal.

Baby Huey is a great resource for pictures/diagrams on how to do it exactly.

It only requires simple tools. It may be as simple as putting a wrench onto the idler puller/tensioner arm and relieving the tension on the belt.

With the tension relieved, slide the belt off of the pullies (it's best if you draw yourself a quick diagram of the routing/orientation of the belt before you pull it so that you have a reference to look off of when you put it back on.)

Once the belt is off, wipe off all of the pullies with a towel/clean cloth (I wouldn't use anything other than water as a cleaning agent.).

Again rotate the idler arm/tensioner ***'y so that you can slide the belt back in. Viola...new belt.

Tension is held into a belt in 1 of 2 ways.
1) Idler arm/tensioner
2) One of the accessories (alternator, etc.) has a slotted attachment that allows for tensioning the pulley when tightening.

Definitely have the codes checked. I think you've got a few separate issues you're dealing with.

Wheel wobbly could be the steering box (or rack/pinion depending on how it's equipped), tie-rods (connect the steering box to the wheels.) or ball-joints (part that the wheels rotate left/right on).

Steering box/rack gone bad should result in some dead-play in the steering (you move the wheel left/right a little and the tires don't move at all.) I would think you'd get some kind of clunk as well.

You can check tie-rods by getting under the car and yanking around on them. If there is looseness, you should replace them and get an alignment immediately after.

You can check ball joints by jacking the car up on one side and with your hands at 12 & 6 o'clock, try to rock the wheel in/out. If you feel looseness, they should be replaced. A failed ball-joint is ugly (those cars you see along the side of the road with the wheel completely stuffed into the wheelwell broke a ball-joint.)

Good luck.

 

Oh yeah, i know that this didn’t trigger the light because the light just came on last October and i've been experiencing this(screeching) for over 2 years. Thanks for you help!! i'll definitely be having more questions.

 

Well i work at sears auto center and still going to school to get my level 4, im 20 years old so im still learning. I thought about that it being a tripped code and i ran a diagnosis on the car and came up knock sen.