So, I recentlypurchased a 95 Millenia S. Its inawesome condition with the body looking very clean and newish and the body style is very slick considering the age difference.Everything works on it and the interior is veryclean, the leather on the seats has some wear, but very light and the dash and door leather is all perfect still. The Car runs great. Ithas 112,000 miles on it. The guyI got itfrom had "his" mechanic trying to fix it.Ithas the TCS problems that i've read so much about now. I noticed it happens more often when I'm going uphill oraccelerating quickly. IfI do accelerate quickly, itgoes, but it kinda feels skipping. Then usually shortly afterthe TCS off light comes it feels like its kinda jerking if push the peddle more then halfway and it wont let it gomore then a little.I have to shift intoneutral and restartthe car, while driving and shift back into driveand its normal until the next hill or I accelerate quickly. It does not seem to do this cruising on the higway. I took it to My local mazda dealership today (Orrin B Hayes in Kalamazoo) and had a $70 diagnotic on it and it came back that it needed possibly 4 more hours of diagnostic and it would be $280. And that doesnt include what may have to be done and how much it will be IF that even fixes it and how much longer it will take. Man, at 70 bucks an hour im gonna be broke if its always like this.

I LOVE the car, but is it worth it?
bought for $2000 in '07

 

I feel your pain as I am struggling with mine. Find some friends that know alot about cars it really helps

 

OK, so i really like the car and i dont care of anyones opinion on if its worth it or not, i think it is worth it. i never went back to the dealership. I took the weekend and read as much on this site and other millenia forums to try and help isolate my problem. I decided it must be a vacuum line and went and searched all thru as many hoses and tees i could find and reach.I found one hose that comes off between the 2 check valves to be unplugged. wasnt sure if it was loose and i knocked it or not but i uplugged my battery to clear codes and go driving to see if it fixed it. it seemed to be doing a lot better with a little bit of sputter still when accelerating, but not as bad. drove prolly 20-30 miles no incident. went for another drive later with my girlfriendand tcs off light problem occured twice in a 30-40 mile drive. i drove it the next day and it happeneda few more timesmore during the day but not as bad, no check engine light. i figure ill check my codes even though theres no light on and go to an autovalue place. he tests my codes for me and gives me a P1000. i forgot what that one was because it was so long. i think fuel air metering auxillary something something but i was only concerned with the word air. figured i had another vacuum leak. He clears the code. TCS off still occurs but this time on the 2nd time i restart the check engine stays on. i read somewhere that P1000 was something about incorrectly clearing codes and and the car going into factory fuel trim settings or something. I figure by him clearing it the right way then my problem has popped back up. i call dealership and get the codes they originally scanned for me and they said i had2 transmission codes:P0720-trans output speed sensor, a P1450-speed control something, and 1 engine code P1173- fuel air meter. the engine code was the one they were going to be searching for when they quoted me and they seemed interested more in that one first then the other ones. i have read that air is a keyword in those codes to vacuum problems. i need help with where in the vacuum if its fuel air meter. i have checked around the ABV and cant find anything around where i can see. theres a mass of them underneath the solenoids that i cant really get to. theres also one on top of the engine that looks like its been spliced with a connector. its the hose that comes from the engine and goes into the CAC solenoid. is the connector restricitng airflow to something? also i unplugged the connector and blew to the hose going to engine and it was tight. blew into hose on other side of connector towards CAC solenoid and i could here my blowing coming out. traced back as coming out of the top of the solenoid which is a valve stem with a cap on it that has a mitsubishi symbol on it? maybe its normal for me to hear it coming out there, maybe im checking stuff wrong. not too sure. also in the front driver side underneath that plastic airvent that connects to the front grill i can hear a hissing. not able to locate hissing as im abdiment to cut up my lawn hose. i can squeeze another vacuum line on top of the engine for a second and hear the hissing stop for as long as i pinch it. gonna have some smaller guys check for vacuum leaks for me if i cant find it, if thats what it even is. they also said something about smoke machines that can find them if they cant. i dont know, give me some input on these codes before my fingers fall off

 

i'm kinda confused here, and perhaps babyhuey can answer. iirc, the 95 was a split year, obd1 or 2. p1000 is obd1. if it is 1000, iirc, that means the car has not been driven enough for the ecu to fully check all the systems. it needs to be driven for a lot longer, and it DOES stay open loop until it can check all systems. perhaps it was really p0100? since the dealer got the p1173(which, btw, is heated o2 sensor, NOT fuel air meter), then it would be obd2. also, are you sure that p1173 is really p0173? that would be fuel trim malfunction, which would make more sense, plus that would more than likely be a vacuum leak. if it fact it IS p0173, you should first fix that, and perhaps some of the others will go away. p0720 is correct(which would be obd2), and you should first check connections.

a smoke machine is a GREAT tool for finding air leaks.

 

i forgot one other thing my car was doing, not sure if its related or not but SOMETIMES not every time, like every other day or so my car will blow bluish smokeupon start up for 10-20 seconds, depending on how long its set i guess and if i rev it to blow it out. still makes me feel kinda silly with my new nice looking car smoking out the parking lot. ive read that blue is oil and could be leaky gaskets. also read something about it could be a sign of the supercharger going but i dont even want to think about that right now. they guy said it used to leak oil and it doesnt anymore, he had it fixed of that. he also said he had spent a lot of money on it trying to fix its problem but finally wanted to stop putting money into a car he was just going to sell. i think he said like $3000. so it does have new things done to it, he supposed to be sending me records of what, but well see.and while looking at the hoses and stuff the supercharger looked shinier then the rest of the engine, so maybe that was done at some point. i dont know, im a newbie trying to learn. im not eactly positive on those code either, i thought i wrote them down as they told me but maybe not, or they mis-said them intentionally or unintentionally. i cleared the codes again with the battery disconnect so i dont get the check engine but just the occasional tcs off. it seems to be less problematic running in open loop mode maybe, maybe not, im still trying to decide. im 65% sure of the P1000 though cuz i was looking over his shoulder and i have searched the code and got the same fuel air metering auxillary thing. Ive got an OBD2 scanner on they way though seems how i plan on trying to keep this vehicle serviced myself or at least stay in the know of whats going on so i dont get crazy diagnostic charges.

 

Blue smoke on start-up is most likely bad valve guide seals. The oil leaks down the seals when it's not running and it builds up. Burns up completely pretty quick. So long as you keep an eye on your oil level (you'll tend to burn it up), it's not something you necessarily need to fix right away.....depending on your finances and embarassment. On 4-cyl engines you can usually do the repair without pulling the motor out. You just need to buy a valve spring compressor (small lever type tool)

And brother....please.....you're killing me with the run-on paragraphs....

 

haha, sorry about the run-ons, just my continuous ranting trying to get it all out. As far as the bad seals, would a oil stop leak additive help? Or is it just gonna gum up the works? Its supposed to "rejuvenate bad seals" and such. cant remember the exact name of it but it was at autozone.

 

Blue smoke may also mean a faulty supercharger. These things tend to fill up with oil due to bad gaskets and they burn the oil at startup creating a nice big cloud of smoke.. I had the exact same problem and thought that it was valve guides but when we took the engine apart, the guides and valves were in mint condition (100,000km) and so we went to the super to find it filled with oil. Good luck its always expensive to fix rare cars. This ones a keeper if you love mazda like I do!

 

Re-check the vacuum lines behind the engine next to the ABV solenoids, make sure that you bend the hose a little bit to see if you have any hairline cracks, they usually crack at the tips. I know this because I had the same problem for months andwas the air hose that connects to the ABV (vent) solenoid. Car runs great now.

Also, I would like to give special thanks to babyhuey for his expertise......his input was very helpful, thanks

 

thanks for the tip, ill re-check them this weekend. I no longer can get a check engine light, just a p1000 code that will not erase. still skips on acceleration and TCS OFF lights come on when they please. seems to be more so on a hot day then cooler, also acceleration is a lot better before the engine heats up.