I am having issues with my 1998 Mazda Millenia S 2.3 3 erorr codes p-1525, p-0725, p-304 I cant seem to get any solutions on how to fix them my self if any 1 can help I would appreciate it the car will trigger the tcs light after about 5 minutes of driving and will not allow me to rev over 2500 RPM it starts to buckle I then only drive it by lightly pushing on the gas but when I restart the car it runs fine but will only allow for about 5 to 10 minutes brfore it happens again. Also I have a misfire on cilinder 4 and can not access the the last 2 rear sparkplugs behind the supercharger any suggestions.

 

your car is in limp home mode. the main problem is the 1525 code. usually, this is also with 1540(abv). 1525 is the vacuum solenoid circuit. there is a row of 4 solenoids on the right bank, next to the egr valve. counting from the passenger side, #4 is the culprit. you should ohm it to be sure, but these cars are getting old, and this is becoming a common problem. it should ohm at around 26. if it is hi, like 40+, or 0, it is bad. if i were you, i would just replace it, along with the vent(#2). at the same time, you should replace all the vacuum lines(21 ft), and most of the "T" and "Y" fittings. what is happening is because of the malfunction in the abv circuit, the pcm stops communicating with tcm, and the car goes limp home. 0725 is engine speed circuit malfunction, this again is usually a vacuum leak. 0304 is cyl 4 misfire, but you are looking at the wrong bank. the right bank is 1-3-5. you want the LEFT(front) bank, that is 2-4-6. pull the front intercooler, and they are right there. swap the coil to another cylinder, and see if the code follows. another possibility is the plugs. they are 60k plugs, if you have not changed them in 60k, they need to be changed. now you have to pull the right bank. to get at them, i pull a lot of stuff. egr valve and tube, loosen the solenoids and push them out of the way, disconnect every connector back there, and pull the rear intercooler. however, to pull the rear intercooler, you have to pull the battery, tray, and unclip that part of the wiring harness. there are also the hoses to the egr, and another larger hose that is right in the way. some people can do this job without pulling the egr or the rear intercooler, i find it too difficult to get at #5, so i just pull everything. we have 2 99 2.3's, so i have done this job several times. if you think the plugs are fun, to change the vacuum lines you gotta pull the whole intake. so, since you need to change the vent/vacuum solenoids, and the vacuum lines, just yank everything off, and do the plugs at the same time. first time? probably take you 2 days, and that's IF you have a good set of tools. for example, the nut on the egr valve is 23mm. an adjustable wrench will work. no one has a 23mm in their toolbox. universal joints and extensions are a must for the plugs. a note to the wise. make sure you put the proper spark plug back in there, or you get to do it all over, AND replace a few coils. iirc, they are 174 each.

 

I have a 98 millenia S the interior heater does not blow hot air i have also posted questions here for 3 seperate code that i seem not to have the technical savy to tear the car apart to fix so i was wondering if any 1 has an idea of the cost to fix theses problems code p-1525, p-0725, p-304 and i have replaced the front and rear suspension with lowering springs and shocks and the car now bounces alot on bumps is the car worth fixing?

 

the hot air problem could be a couple of things. easiest and cheapest is the a/c amp. these are megabucks at the dealer, but on ebay, they are always well under 50 bucks. takes about 30 minutes to change. it could also be a blende door, and for that you will have to pull the whole dash. huge labor, and i have no idea on parts costs.
on the 3 codes, i just gave you a full explanation, but if you have to pay someone to do this, lotsa luck. to change a broke tee, figger about 5 hrs labor at least. if it is the solenoid, that's easy to change, about 30 min, 1 hr max, but most likely it is also a broke tee or vacuum line. once the vacuum problem is fixed(this is why i think 1525 is more a broke tee or vacuum line problem than a solenoid), the 0725 will probably go away. the bad news is that because of the age of the car, and the texas heat, unless you change out all the vacuum lines, they will cause problems forever. figger on about another 3-4 hrs on top of the 5 to pull the intake. the 0304 is probably a coil, and since it is front bank, that is easy, 1 hr tops. a used coil is about 40 bucks, new use to be 174
by putting the lowering springs on the car, you blew out the shocks. only the rears are available aftermarket, i have seen them around 100/ea. however, these are for the 95-96 millenia, which has a different upper strut mount. so, if you get the aftermarket rears, you also have to get new upper strut mounts, because the ones on the car now wont work. the fronts are only available from mazda, about 200 each. they are a bitch to change, and if you reuse your lowering springs, you will blow out the new shocks. personally, i think lowering this car is stupid. now you know 1 of the reasons why.
it gets better. resale on a millenia sucks. a 98 in excellent condition will probably go for about 3k. in dallas, there are a couple of 01 s' going for 5k asking, and they have less than 100k miles. because of the rarity of this car, especially the 2.3(which you have, lucky you), very few shops, if any, have experience on this car. if you cheap out and find the cheapest place, more than likely they will screw it up worse. this car can eat money, you have to be very careful. if i had to pay someone to do all the work i have done, i would have gotten rid of these cars a long time ago. i think they are very well made, and perform very well, but they are fairly high maintenance.