Way cool bh....how about keeping the gear teeth lined up between the driven gear and the friction gear while tightening the spring nut?

I'm going to do the front cyl.bank also while I'm down this far.Do I need to remove the distributer to get the front valve cover off?

 

There is not really a way you can keep the two gear teeth lined up. Outer gear should move without too much difficulty as long as you put a little motor oil between the two before putting together. Should not need to remove distributor to get valve cover off but will need to remove it anyway when taking out the camshafts so you might as well just get it over with.

 

Hey thankx a million bh.....I'll chine later w/results.Keep an eye open for me,OK?

 

I will.

 

Have new seals for the sprocket drive cams.However don't have new plugs for the driven cams.Is it OK to use the old plugs w/some super grey RTV?

 

That should work great Am4wag. Will probably seal up better then a set of new plugs!!

 

All has been going slow but well.Torqued the spring nuts on cams to 65lb's.Got them set back in w/dots meeting each other.Timing the engine/installing timing belt,I assume I was correct in making sure the rear bank sprocket dots (2) were lined up w/the 2 pointers,the front sprocket lined up dot to pointer,and crank sprocket notch lined w/pointer.Tensioner is in,turned 2 revolutions,all marks return to as installed.
I was ready to put coolant in when I discovered the plastic drain plug is broken off in the radiater.WTF........can this be drilled and easy out(ed),drilled and taped to 1/8 npt.,or does the radiater have to come out.

 

Should be able to extract while still in the car but is kind of tight quarters in there. If any doubt that might damage the radiator then would be worthwhile to remove radiator. If the threads are not damaged then often time will just spin right out with a little applied pressure and a sharp pointed #1 phillips screwdriver.
If parts store does not have a replacment for you then OE part would be KL47-15-203. This is the style that has the drain plug located in the right side lower radiator mount isn't it??

 

Sitting in the driver's seat,yes,it would be lower right of radiater.I can see the first couple of threads where theplug is broken.I ordered one from the dealer,so that sets me back another day (damn that 300 hp.Jeep is "killing" me in gas).I picked around to try to extract the broken plug w/a scratch awl.That sounds like a good idea to use a #1 phillips.I get the plug tommorrow,and that will give me an idea of how much is broken off up in there and give me an idea of how deep I can go w/a drill,if I have to resort to that.I'm just wondering if one could'nt use a stainless bolt (if the same threads) w/a rubber washer for a drain plugto prevent this from happening again.

 

Buttoned up and just took a 20 mile round trip test drive.All seems good (but is dark now).Engine is nice and quiet now.Tommorrow I'll drop the water and add some anti-freeze (winter's coming back),then reinstall the splash guards.Thankyou very,very,very much bh for input and info.Regards to you....You da man !!