2000 milly s ,,,stalling
 

:mad:Hi, I have a 00 Mazda Millenia S. I have replaced the EGR valve sensor, the map sensor, the mass flow sensor, and the TPS sensor, and also the crank shaft sensor, and still it does the same thing! When I accelerate fast, it stalls, but if I let go of the gas pedal, and then accelerate slowly until it picks up speed, the car runs great, but forgot to mention no check engine light is on! Is there someone who knows what is wrong with this car? and it all started one day i was at a stop and hit the gas hard and it stalled i still drive it everyday but if you start out in 1st gear and get the rpm up around 3k then you can floor it but if your sitting at a stop you have to push on the gas very very light to get it going if you push just a 1/2in it will stall http://forums.mazdaworld.org/images/smilies/eek.gif

Throttle cable
 

your throttle cable might be loose or jumped off the little groove on the throttle body. and that would not cause the engine light to come on.

i check it it seems to be working

Milly: I don't have a Millenia. But I thought I theorize a little with you.
You have already thrown a lot of sensors at it. I must ask: did you CHECK the sensors before you replaced them? Too often the messenger (sensor) gets blamed for the news and yours were replaced even though there was no digital trouble code.

When you step on the throttle the amount of air coming in increases suddenly. The computer should react by increasing the volume of fuel to be injected. Maybe it can't because the fuel pressure is low? check fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and injectors.
Maybe the EGR ports are plugged. You replaced the EGR sensor, but did you clean the throttle body including the EGR ports? Did you clean out the EGR valve? Did you check if the nipple for the EGR vacuum hose is open? In Proteges this nipple gets clogged with deposits and the passages in the EGR valve collect deposits as well.

The millenia has a turbo charger. Maybe the charger is not working correctly?

Did you check the ignition system?

Did you check for vacuum leaks?

I hope this helps you close in on the cause.

i did check the fuel it was at like around 40psi and when i push i the gas it goes up over 50 i think iam going to do all the stuff you said nam sure it needs it anyway as soon as the snow go away thanks for your help

egr dont come work until the car is going, iirc, above 2500 rpm. so it cant be egr.

millenia does NOT have a turbo. where go you get your info? make it up?

ign system. the 2.3 has a cop system. while there are some ways to check SOME of the parts, the main weakness here are the coils. they could be weak, but off idle, it would have more to do with the battery than the coils. how old is your battery, and have you had a load test done recently? in the 2.3, a weak battery will cause all kinds of wierd problems. for some reason, the 2.3 seems to react more to a weak battery than other engines. a weak coil might not throw a code. i have changed out several in both our cars(we have 2 2.3's), sometimes they throw a code, sometimes not. if a coil is weak, it will do what your car is doing, and there is no way to check if a coil is weak. there is a way to check if one is dead, but not weak.

there is a vast difference from the engine in a protege and the millenia s 2.3. beware of those who think they are the same

thanks for all the help guys the funny thing is after i get it up to 2500rpm i can beat the hell out of it ,,,you think it could be getting to much fuel or maybe the egr is stuck open

You are right, Kenin, the Millenia does not have a turbo. But it does have a Miller cycle engine. Or do I shoot myself in the foot again?

The Miller cycle engine has a SUPER CHARGER. Here is more about the Miller cycle engine:
Why hasn't the Miller cycle been more widely utilized? - Motor Trend The General Forum Forum

If and only if your Millenia has a Miller cycle engine, maybe the SUPERCHARGER is not working correctly.

(I hope I covered my anatomy well enough).:rolleyes:

wrong again. even if the COMPRESSOR(i believe supercharger is to otto cycle what compressor is to miller cycle) is bad, the car will run. it will even feel just like the compressor is working, up to about 1500 rpm, then it will still be smooth, but there will be no power. again, i would check the battery. the 2.3 just dont like to run if the battery is weak. at idle you should be getting 14.4 volts. when it gets to 2500, the alternator is putting out max, so even if the battery is weak, the input from the alternator would overcome the weak battery. if a coil is weak, it will still run, and miss occasionally, but generally miss under heavy load, and boost, but still not throw a code. if the coil is beyond weak and near death, it will miss badly, and you will get a ce lite, in extreme cases, it will flash. the only other thing i can think of is a huge intake leak, so when you mash it, unmetered air mixes with metered air, and the system cannot compensate for the extra air, and goes super lean, stalling. or possible throttle position switch, but tps is rare on a 2.3. however, given the age of the car, anything can happen. i have seen, and have encountered myself, bad fuel injectors, which in the past was extremely rare, but has become more common now, as the cars age.

After this shameful defeat I relegate myself to observer status on this thread. I think I may learn something.

Thanks, guys.

Tan

i just read a post on the other forum, mazdaworld.org on cleaning the throttle body. i have never had to do this, but that may be part of your problem:

Okay, big improvement in idle and low speed pick up off the line when touching the throttle.

I was only able to clean maybe 70% of the gunk from the throttle body mounted on the car. It was difficult/impossible to get the stuff way back behind the throttle butterfly, and the stuff on the top side of the throttle body, due to the awkward angle.

I was afraid to remove it because the original 13 year old gasket looked kind of beat. So I think I'm going to order a new throttle body gasket and pull the throttle body and clean it on a bench. I'm hoping that should really smooth out the idle. The build up is almost like black cement on the throttle body. So the only way to really clean it good is to remove the throttle body.

I think if you cleaned it every year or two you could just spray it down on the car. But after a decade + of driving without cleaning, it really needs to be pulled to get a good cleaning.
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if i were to clean the t/b, i would remove it from the car. this person did not, but he said there was a big improvement

ok the cel came on and it started missing it said that the no.4 injecter was bad the thing that is buging me the must is why would it just start doing this right after i floored it i think i didnt put the right plugs in it when i changed them last and i did see some oil in the intercooler when i took it off i think i am just going to part this thing out

there is no code for injector. there is one for cylinder. and if you put in the wrong plugs, then they are probably not at the proper gap, which puts a HUGE strain on the coils, and they will fail. so by skimping on the correct part, this is what you get. and wrong plugs/wrong gap would explain why it is stalling

the plugs were put in like 6 mons ago this started a few weeks ago and they are at the right gap but i was reading something and they said to put nkg in it and i know i didnt use them and am not skimming on parts i payed like 8.00 each for them and the code i got i look up and it said it was no. 4 injector and it was on 5 diff sites and they all said the same

what is the exact code? if it was P0300, 0301/2/3/4/5/6, those are MISFIRE codes, not fuel injector. THERE IS NO CODE FOR FUEL INJECTOR. and i dont care what those 5 sites said, THERE IS NO CODE FOR FUEL INJECTOR. missfire can be coil, spark plug, injector, valve, piston, helluva lot more. and if you put the wrong plugs in there, it can take several weeks/months to kill a coil. and if you did not gap the plugs, how do you know the right gap is on them? and if they were precious metal tipped plugs, and you regapped them, another no no. this is beginning to sound like a giant cluster ****. but hey, what do i know. keep looking, i am done helping

I have a 1999 Millenia S with the 2.3 Miller Cycle, and have found that a fuel contaminated with water will create havoc with the knock sensor and ecm. The initial symptom can be problems accelerating from low rpms. If you buy gas from different sources, I recommend adding a bottle of heet or other fuel system water remover to each tank. I also suspected that the actual octane rating of the "premium" fuel at some gas stations may be lower than the 91 posted on the pump. I found that adding a bottle of octane boost to each tank has corrected my problem and prevented knock and the ecm from going into "limp home mode." I would also say that previous posters are correct in telling you to check your battery, I found that the optima battery my car came with to be deceptive when I measured it for voltage and not for load. If the system voltage drops below 12v, the ecm begins to throw erratic codes.