Transmission oil changes
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
great response!!
exactly!!!!
"properly flushing will not harm the transmission in any way." agree. I've had very good results with home flushes...drain & refill the sump, then with a hose from the fluid line to the cooler into a bucket, pump some out, add fresh atf, pump more out, add more fresh...do it right and the results are good.
Some people wait until the transmission shows signs of dying and hope that a flush will fix it. Too late. The transmission dies and the flush gets the blame.
Some people wait until the transmission shows signs of dying and hope that a flush will fix it. Too late. The transmission dies and the flush gets the blame.
Last edited by Callisto; Feb 5, 2021 at 08:57 AM. Reason: ASE Master Technician L1 L2 certified
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon
Safe to drive with 12 oz. extra ATF in my 1st gen cx-9?
I added about 12 oz. of that friction enhancer fluid (Lubegard) to my transmission without extracting any atf. So my atf level is slightly high by 12 oz. only. So is it ok? or I need to extact the same quantity to be safe?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Washington, the state
The extra 12 ounces of Lubegard should not cause a problem. Lubegard is good stuff, but there is no such thing as a miracle in a bottle. If the transmission is dying, an additive might delay the inevitable...long to get it to a car lot and trade it in. I've also had good results from the Lubegard power steering additive in hydraulic power steering systems. In this small system do remove the equal amount of fluid. Better yet, flush, refill, and add the additive. Unless a proprietary steering fluid is needed, I use synthetic ATF--it adds some very low & very high temperature protection.
Not mentioned is installing a Magnefine or similar in-line filter ($20) both in the ATF cooling line to the cooler and in the return to the power steering reservoir. Every hydraulic system needs clean fluid. The transmission will need either a 5/16" or 3/8" filter, whatever the cooling line hose I.D. is. The steering will use a 1/2" filter. The instructions say to put the filter on the outlet of the cooler. That's in case the filter is added after a transmission failure. Debris gets trapped in the cooler, and the filter catches it before it returns to the new transmission. If the transmission is still OK, putting it in the inlet to the cooler has hotter, thinner fluid which filters better.
Not mentioned is installing a Magnefine or similar in-line filter ($20) both in the ATF cooling line to the cooler and in the return to the power steering reservoir. Every hydraulic system needs clean fluid. The transmission will need either a 5/16" or 3/8" filter, whatever the cooling line hose I.D. is. The steering will use a 1/2" filter. The instructions say to put the filter on the outlet of the cooler. That's in case the filter is added after a transmission failure. Debris gets trapped in the cooler, and the filter catches it before it returns to the new transmission. If the transmission is still OK, putting it in the inlet to the cooler has hotter, thinner fluid which filters better.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
In my thread I actually do! 
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************
ColoradoBoo Technically speaking I was an applied "Mechanic" for only a few years in motorcycle ]Aeronautics and Automotive but have been an ASE Automotive Technician for over 30 years combined experience since 1977 so I would say more then that "mechanic" in the video. lol I won't go into how many parts I have "engineered" developed then had marketed on the World Wide Market for Aftermarket Automotive use which is not limited to "go fast goodies" but also improving the performance levels of transmission like automatic's! LOL
But I understand the concept of the internet and finding the answer you really want to support a cause about any subject! LOL
May I recommend that you do a little more research and understand how the NEW automatic transmission in a MAZDA are designed and how they work which is very different form what I think you are use to as you used that video as a reference of sorts ?
Hey in the end I don't care if anyone takes my advise and recommendation on a forum .
LOL carry on friends!
************************************************** ************************************************** ******************************
ColoradoBoo Technically speaking I was an applied "Mechanic" for only a few years in motorcycle ]Aeronautics and Automotive but have been an ASE Automotive Technician for over 30 years combined experience since 1977 so I would say more then that "mechanic" in the video. lol I won't go into how many parts I have "engineered" developed then had marketed on the World Wide Market for Aftermarket Automotive use which is not limited to "go fast goodies" but also improving the performance levels of transmission like automatic's! LOL
But I understand the concept of the internet and finding the answer you really want to support a cause about any subject! LOL
May I recommend that you do a little more research and understand how the NEW automatic transmission in a MAZDA are designed and how they work which is very different form what I think you are use to as you used that video as a reference of sorts ?
Hey in the end I don't care if anyone takes my advise and recommendation on a forum .
LOL carry on friends!
Last edited by Callisto; Feb 8, 2021 at 10:37 AM. Reason: removed the size symbols
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
Professional Automatic Flushing Machine basic procedure.
Remove trans mission out and input fluid lines.
Install Adapter to transmission input output fluid lines.
Add replacement fluid to machine.
Procedure with fluid replacement.
During the process the old fluid goes the normal direction of fluid in the cooling lines and captured in a container for disposing after the procedure. All that is happening is the old fluid travels out of the transmission captured at the same time the exact amount of new fluid is entering the input line adapter of the transmission. There is not even cavitation in fluid during the process and at no time is the fluid pressure greater that what the transmission is normally running at. Once the procedure is done the estimated fold fluid replacement is about 98 to 100% old fluid replaced with new! The adapter is removed and the cooling lines replaced then the pan will be removed and the filter changed. Pan reinstalled and the proper fill checked when the transmission is at least 130F operating fluid temperature.
So even if some of you have never performed this procedure you can see that there can be NO possible way the exchange in this procedure removing old fluid for new can in anyway damage a transmission. It is just absurd to read that some believe it possible ROLMAO!!!!
I challenge anyone to prove this Empirically by doing a before and after oil analysis and posting both the data results of those analysis on this thread!
Automatic transmissions ask a lot of the oil. Not only does the oil lubricate and clean internal parts, but it also functions as a hydraulic oil to operate various components.
Transmission oil can be contaminated with metals, solids, and moisture, and those contaminants need to be removed before they cause problems. Conversely, a test of your transmission fluid may reveal that it’s still in great condition, and you don’t need to change it as often as you thought.
There’s no easier way of knowing what’s going on in the system than oil analysis. We can tell you if the oil needs to be changed, if it’s contaminated, or if there are any problems at hand. Request your free kit today and make sure your drive train is wearing as it should!
Remove trans mission out and input fluid lines.
Install Adapter to transmission input output fluid lines.
Add replacement fluid to machine.
Procedure with fluid replacement.
During the process the old fluid goes the normal direction of fluid in the cooling lines and captured in a container for disposing after the procedure. All that is happening is the old fluid travels out of the transmission captured at the same time the exact amount of new fluid is entering the input line adapter of the transmission. There is not even cavitation in fluid during the process and at no time is the fluid pressure greater that what the transmission is normally running at. Once the procedure is done the estimated fold fluid replacement is about 98 to 100% old fluid replaced with new! The adapter is removed and the cooling lines replaced then the pan will be removed and the filter changed. Pan reinstalled and the proper fill checked when the transmission is at least 130F operating fluid temperature.
So even if some of you have never performed this procedure you can see that there can be NO possible way the exchange in this procedure removing old fluid for new can in anyway damage a transmission. It is just absurd to read that some believe it possible ROLMAO!!!!
I challenge anyone to prove this Empirically by doing a before and after oil analysis and posting both the data results of those analysis on this thread!
Blackstone Laboratories
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?session-id=tmt5wxvjptropcadgscndt55&timeout=20&bslauth&url base=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackstone-labs.net%2FBstone%2F%28S%28tmt5wxvjptropcadgscndt5 5%29%29%2FAutomatic transmissions ask a lot of the oil. Not only does the oil lubricate and clean internal parts, but it also functions as a hydraulic oil to operate various components.
Transmission oil can be contaminated with metals, solids, and moisture, and those contaminants need to be removed before they cause problems. Conversely, a test of your transmission fluid may reveal that it’s still in great condition, and you don’t need to change it as often as you thought.
There’s no easier way of knowing what’s going on in the system than oil analysis. We can tell you if the oil needs to be changed, if it’s contaminated, or if there are any problems at hand. Request your free kit today and make sure your drive train is wearing as it should!
Last edited by Callisto; Feb 8, 2021 at 11:04 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Washington, the state
The ATF also is the gear lubricant for the gears inside the automatic transmission.
There are friction-material clutches inside the transmission. These produce wear particles, the usual cause of the black color of used ATF. Up to a certain point the wear particles are no problem. And, eventually, the clutches wear to the point where they and many other parts are just worn out and need replacement. This wear-out takes longer with good, clean ATF that has been periodically changed.
There are friction-material clutches inside the transmission. These produce wear particles, the usual cause of the black color of used ATF. Up to a certain point the wear particles are no problem. And, eventually, the clutches wear to the point where they and many other parts are just worn out and need replacement. This wear-out takes longer with good, clean ATF that has been periodically changed.
Member
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Reading, PA
2012 CX9 Grand touring Transmission fluid flush
I had my my tranny fluid flushed by the dealer for first time at about 47000 miles about 4 yrs. 9 months after buying. All well and good. Yesterday, I just had it flushed again at about 78000 miles and 4.5 years/31000 miles after the first tranny flush. Previously, the tranny was not smoothly upshifting after it downshifted into a lower gear upon applying the brake. Now it's smooth as silk. Here's my issue: I was told that the fluid was 'dark' and that there were tiny particles in it.
Could anyone comment on why the fluid was dark? (I had a dark fluid issue in my old RAV4 and then some time later the reverse gear started going bad). I'm not sure I want to hear the answer to this, but in my mind, it should not have been dark, but maybe I waited too long for the second tranny flush. The dealer did not say anything was unusual about the fluid at the 47000 mile flush. BTW, I previously owned a 1996 Ford Explorer for over 20 ears and had the tranny flushed about every 30000 miles. I made it to 247000 miles with the original tranny.
thanks
chasfish
Could anyone comment on why the fluid was dark? (I had a dark fluid issue in my old RAV4 and then some time later the reverse gear started going bad). I'm not sure I want to hear the answer to this, but in my mind, it should not have been dark, but maybe I waited too long for the second tranny flush. The dealer did not say anything was unusual about the fluid at the 47000 mile flush. BTW, I previously owned a 1996 Ford Explorer for over 20 ears and had the tranny flushed about every 30000 miles. I made it to 247000 miles with the original tranny.
thanks
chasfish
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
I had my my tranny fluid flushed by the dealer for first time at about 47000 miles about 4 yrs. 9 months after buying. All well and good. Yesterday, I just had it flushed again at about 78000 miles and 4.5 years/31000 miles after the first tranny flush. Previously, the tranny was not smoothly upshifting after it downshifted into a lower gear upon applying the brake. Now it's smooth as silk. Here's my issue: I was told that the fluid was 'dark' and that there were tiny particles in it.
Could anyone comment on why the fluid was dark? (I had a dark fluid issue in my old RAV4 and then some time later the reverse gear started going bad). I'm not sure I want to hear the answer to this, but in my mind, it should not have been dark, but maybe I waited too long for the second tranny flush. The dealer did not say anything was unusual about the fluid at the 47000 mile flush. BTW, I previously owned a 1996 Ford Explorer for over 20 ears and had the tranny flushed about every 30000 miles. I made it to 247000 miles with the original tranny.
thanks
chasfish
Could anyone comment on why the fluid was dark? (I had a dark fluid issue in my old RAV4 and then some time later the reverse gear started going bad). I'm not sure I want to hear the answer to this, but in my mind, it should not have been dark, but maybe I waited too long for the second tranny flush. The dealer did not say anything was unusual about the fluid at the 47000 mile flush. BTW, I previously owned a 1996 Ford Explorer for over 20 ears and had the tranny flushed about every 30000 miles. I made it to 247000 miles with the original tranny.
thanks
chasfish
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Blackstone Laboratories
416 East Pettit Avenue
Fort Wayne, IN 46806
Phone: 260 744-2380 (8-5 EST)
Fax: 260 745-2200
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engi.../transmission/
Automatic transmissions ask a lot of the oil. Not only does the oil lubricate and clean internal parts, but it also functions as a hydraulic oil to operate various components.
Transmission oil can be contaminated with metals, solids, and moisture, and those contaminants need to be removed before they cause problems. Conversely, a test of your transmission fluid may reveal that it’s still in great condition, and you don’t need to change it as often as you thought.
There’s no easier way of knowing what’s going on in the system than oil analysis. We can tell you if the oil needs to be changed, if it’s contaminated, or if there are any problems at hand. Request your free kit today and make sure your drive train is wearing as it should!
And here is my report I had them run on my personal MAZDA 3
The water was from the tube I cleaned and did not dry out completely when I pulled the sample from the pan at the dip stick port. LOL
This shows how accurate the testing is!