Oil Pressure Light on at Idol (Hot Engine)
#11
Got it. I'm replacing the oil pressure sensor this week - drove the car some and no adverse changes. If the problem continues after the sensor is replaced, I'll be doing the wrench turning myself and will need a good shop manual on the 2012 Mazda engine. Any recommendations?
#12
What part of the radiator? The radiator has two tanks, a hot tank and a cold tank. The coolant is directed to the hot tank from the thermostat in the cars' head after the coolant temperature reaches the set point. From the hot tank the coolant flows through the radiator tubing to the cold tank. From the cold tank it flows back into the engine. The hot tank is hot--the temperature determined by the thermostat (I think 190° in our cars). The cold tank is much cooler depending on the rate of flow through the radiator and the air temperature. We also need to keep in mind that the thermostat doesn't click all the way open or click all the way closed. It modulates---moves just enough---to hold very close to the set point. Expect normally warm engine oil to run in the 200°F to 250°F range. Abnormally hot engine oil would be higher than 250.
My old Volvo turbo had the oil cooler inside the radiator hot tank. The transmission cooler was inside the radiator cold tank.
My old Volvo turbo had the oil cooler inside the radiator hot tank. The transmission cooler was inside the radiator cold tank.
#14
You perhaps might know where the oil pressure sensor is located or have a diagram of the engine with its location? I have the replacement sensor but cannot find its location? I thought it was on the drivers side of the engine wall?
#19
Stand in front center of the engine bay - the sensor is straight down, way down at the at the front and bottom of the engine - facing towards the front of the car. There is not alot of room to work with - having smaller arms and hands will help enormously as there is only a smaller space to work with between the engine and radiator assembly. I did not want to take off the radiator fans etc. unless I really needed to. I recall needing a 21 mm deep socket and a very long 3/8ths extension with a universal socket holder so that the wrench could swevle in any direction unimpeded. I tried only to use the socket to initially loosen and then finally tighten the sensor onto the engine. I removed the plastic under-car protector in the very front so that I could get at the sensor wires from under the car. I worked the wire connector off from both the top and the bottom of the engine - and also assisted putting the wrench on the sensor from under the car. Placing the deep socket on the sensor, I turned it loose and was able to back it off by hand. I guess I was lucky that there was not alot of road dirt in around the sensor. Once the old sensor was removed, I manually screwed in the new sensor by hand from above and underneath the car - then used the 21 mm deep socket to tighten the sensor in place. The finally put the wiring onto the new sensor. Oh, and my wife helped enormously while I was under the car working the sensor wires loose, as she provided direction to me in relation to the sensor location from above. And, at the beginning of the repair, I removed the negative battery connection and reconnected it at the conclusion of the repair. The computer must have identified the change as the oil light went out after restarting the car.
In my description above, I left out the times that I cursed the engineers of various companys who thought to place the sensor in this position on the engine and with no room to work with to change it - it was a combination of Ford (engine) and Mazda (chasis etc.) directed expletives. Hope this helps!
In my description above, I left out the times that I cursed the engineers of various companys who thought to place the sensor in this position on the engine and with no room to work with to change it - it was a combination of Ford (engine) and Mazda (chasis etc.) directed expletives. Hope this helps!
Last edited by danpeters08; 11-16-2019 at 11:40 PM.
#20
Low oil pressure warning at idle
I had same problem it is due to faulty electronic pressure sensor just replaced it and it's gone.
2012 Mazda CX-9, 3.7 Liter 6 cylinder engine (105,000 miles - Texas based): oil pressure light comes on and off (remaining off) at cold engine idle. When thermostat opens, oil pressure light comes on at idlel, but goes off when engine is accelerated. Engine idols at 675 rpm (analog indicator) - the light goes out at 775 rpm. Oil remains at normal levels and no sign of leaks. No other indicators of an oil pressure issue. Changed oil with new filter - no contaminants in the oil (antifreeze etc.) Might the oil light be responding to a faulty oil pressure sensor? ($12 at Auto Zone). Thanks much!
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