After months of research, I finally settled on the CX-9 (over the CX-5) because it has everything I wanted in the CX-5 but couldn't get (turbo, FWD, parking sensors, 360˚ camera, and more).

Before scheduling my test drive, I spent hours this weekend sifting through dealer stock for every Mazda dealer in a 100-mile radius from my area (San Diego county) - about 10+ different dealers. Since inventory is low everywhere, I only found a few cars that fit all my checkboxes: Grand Touring w/ 2-row bench seats, black interior, and a white or dark gray exterior.

After I located the specific cars, I pulled VIN #s to try and ascertain how long the vehicles have been on the lot. I also requested quotes from US News Best Price Program (partnered with TrueCar) and submitted a request for the Costco Auto Program - to get an idea of some no-haggle pricing options. I knew I wasn't going to get the Costco price upfront because you have to go into the dealer for that - but I did all of my homework upfront.

To my pleasant surprise, I received a quote from the US News Best Price Program for a local dealer at $40,650 (see pic below). Given the limited stock/options currently and fewer discounts and incentives, I thought this was a really great starting point (and a great price).

Fast forward to this afternoon - I go in for the test drive and then ask to discuss numbers. I originally came in as a lead to the dealer through Costco. However, I told him I'm not committed to going through Costco or US News/TrueCar, etc... I'm just committed to getting the best price possible. He asked me to show him the emailed quote I received. So, I show him the quote, and he did a double-take and proceeded to write down a different price on his little paper ($41,162).

I asked what the Costco price was, and he said, "It's more than that." Again, I asked if I could see the Costco price. He said if I wanted to see it, he would show it to me. He excuses himself for about 15 minutes and comes back with another piece of paper.

He points to a number and says, this is the invoice price (it was about $41K - I didn't get a good look because he only showed it to me for about 5 seconds) - then said the Costco price is the same as the invoice price. Things that make you go hmmm #1 -- I don't recall that being the process I expected for the Costco Auto Program.

He then shows me a printed workup of the pricing... I immediately ask why you have the price at $41,162 if my emailed quote was $40,650. He said he can't go that low, especially not right now when inventory is low. Things that make you go hmmm #2 -- I thought car dealers are in the business of selling their inventory - not holding onto it.

Next, he walks me through the breakdowns... $1,789 in "aftermarkets." Things that make you go hmmm #3 - almost $2K in aftermarkets???

I ask for a breakdown of the aftermarkets are...

• 3M Protection Film (for the door trim, handles, and rear bumper) = $395
• Ceramic sealant = $495
• Alarm system = $895

The ceramic sealant I'm okay with. $400 for some trim around the edges of the doors, behind the handles, and on the rear bumper seems excessive. However, $900 for an alarm?!?

I inquire about the alarm because I thought (mistakenly) the car comes with that standard. He explains the car only has an immobilizer; there's no factory-installed alarm. I told him I've never paid $900 for an alarm, that I park in the garage at both home and work. He said this alarm is different because there's an app for your phone, and it can tell you where you parked. Cool, but I don't need an app to tell me where I parked because I have a freakish memory. I also don't need the horn/alarm sounds because that will not do me any good if I'm indoors anyway. He said we could discuss the alarm later.

I have a strong suspicion they're trying to recoup the cost of the discount through the ridiculous aftermarkets. I'm also really frustrated/disappointed that they wouldn't formally show me the Costco pricing, nor would they honor the emailed quoted price I received.

I know I have the prerogative to take my business elsewhere, but I can't imagine any other dealer will be much different. I understand they want to sell the car for the most they possibly can, and I want to purchase it for the lowest price possible. I guess integrity is too much to ask for. Should I push back and ask for the general manager and get them to honor the price and remove the aftermarket stuff - or, am I just out of luck because dealers have a bit of the upper hand due to the limited inventory and high demand?

(Note: The VIN for the car I'm focused on shows it's been on the dealer's lot for about 80 days -- so, it doesn't seem like it's likely going to sell as quickly - but I could be wrong).

 

Car dealers lie about as much as we breath. If they were able to tell the truth they'd never last as a car salesman. You already know that they're showing you phony prices. The add-ons are equally phony. The 3M film might be good, but any detail shop can put it on for less (why door handles and rear bumper?). It is unlikely that they've applied a ceramic sealant. If anything, it's probably a polymer sealant, a 6-month product, and they probably put on nothing. Actually I've had a detail shop put on the ceramic sealant, it cost almost as much as what you're offered, and frankly I prefer the do it yourself spray-on 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating, $20. As you noticed, the alarm system is pure thievery. So, try going in, state the price you'll pay, be a serious buyer, take a pencil and line out all the other stuff, and let them know that you'll walk out if you don't get very close to your price. Walking out is your strongest tool. There are many youtube videos on car buying. Not one shows the dealer in a good light. Be sure to look at the ones on the 4-square calculations where they get your head spinning with new car price, trade-in value, monthly payment, and number of payments. They're pros, and we're fish to be hooked.

Also expect them to screw you around on financing and a trade in value. For financing know your FICO Auto Score, a credit score that is specific for car loans. VantageScore is another credit score that is widely used for car loans. Check with your bank or credit union about auto loan rates and see if you qualify for their best rate. If the dealer can get you into a costlier loan, their kickback improves. Valuing your trade in is a completely separate deal from buying a new car. They try to mix things up to confuse you. Expect to be offered, at best, the KBB "good" value for your car. It's up to you to argue for more, or maybe sell it yourself. Keep in mind that the one individual who is the biggest profit maker is the so-called finance manager. He'll work to scare you into buying unneeded and/or overpriced items. Buy nothing extra. Nothing extra. If it has any value, you can get better elsewhere cheaper. Like gap insurance that covers the difference between your loan amount and the equity you have in the car in case it's totaled. You don't need gap insurance if you make a substantial down payment. You do need it with a small down payment. But, save money and buy it from your regular car insurer.

 

Thanks for allowing me to vent; I also appreciate your input. It's my first time buying a brand new car (I've bought a couple of used cars from dealers in the past, but that was 15+ years ago). I had done a ton of research, but I was a bit blind-sighted by the salesman adding the aftermarkets to negotiate the vehicle purchase. I knew to expect that once I hit the finance dept, I did not expect it from the salesman. I suspect he did that because they knew they wouldn't be able to take advantage of me when it came to financing -- I have excellent credit and qualified for the 0% APR. That was the one mistake I made, I shouldn't have disclosed that I was going to take advantage of the 0% APR with the salesman. Lesson learned.

I followed up with the manager the following day and told them I found 2 other dealers who were willing to honor the quoted price, and we could either press reset and play ball, or I would go elsewhere.

I didn't do a trade-in because I opted to hand down my car to my 16yo daughter. No need for the gap insurance because I put $15K down. In the end, I got the car and deal I wanted -- my out-the-door price (after taxes, license fees, etc...) was only a little more than the MSRP. I'm now loving my new CX-9 GT!

Thanks for the tip on the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating - I just added it to my Amazon cart!

 

oy I know I am going to get the sheeeeeet rebuttle on my response here. LOL

But reading this thread only supports many of you DONT own a business with any stocking parts owned by a loan or banking institution.

LOL

in decades I have yet to see a GENERAL MANAGER of any dealership on an automotive forum and even less a loan officer in charge of dealership flooring even if auto manufacture supported.

You all need to to make the best deal you can and stop assuming you all think you know about cost of items and how the package is put together.

If you don't like the deal DON"T BUY IT!!!!!

BTW hint to buying that works a little better some of the time, not always......
when you go to a dealership DON"T ask for the sales department manager you are only extending your time with dealing. Who do you think send the salesman back to you with a counter offer. The more you get the salesman to run back and forth the better your chances at lowering the offer. Be ready to walk away without looking back if you don't like something.
But here an idea, next time you go to a dealership ask to talk to the Fleet manager. Use any kind of BS story to get to talk to him even if you have to tell a tall tail to get to talk to him. These guys will actually shorten your time and likely to give you a deal you will be happy with. They don't have time for a single sale and the BS that goes with it so if you are lucky to catch them on a slow sales day they may want to make a quick sale to get all the commission and spiffs on a vehicle which is always alluring to them on a slow fleet sales day!

oh and lots of luck finding complete flooring information on any vehicle at a dealership LOL no one but the owner and bank institution has that and its not public. Don't fool yourself!

My working experience about this I was a salesman for short period in my life:
New Vehicle Auto Sales ( Cadillac ,Oldsmobile,GMC MAZDA,Nissan) my good friend was the Fleet manager, and my older brother was a new vehicle sales manager and his girlfriend was the Loan officer for vehicles sales. LOL

One last thing although this applies more for general repair advise IMHO it still can apply towards anything posted on a forum.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...wn-risk-44779/

 

Wak away