Hi,
I have been told that I need to change my ATF as it is bad and old. However, I have also been told not to replace it as it will eventually mess up my transmission. So my predicament is which is correct? It does need to be changed because it's bad but changing it will mess up the transmission. I don't want the transmission messed up or messing up on me down the road . What is REALLY the right way to attend to this catch 22? Something has got to get done. 2009 CX-9 Grand Touring AWD

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by MiketheDJ

Hi,
I have been told that I need to change my ATF as it is bad and old. However, I have also been told not to replace it as it will eventually mess up my transmission. So my predicament is which is correct? It does need to be changed because it's bad but changing it will mess up the transmission. I don't want the transmission messed up or messing up on me down the road . What is REALLY the right way to attend to this catch 22? Something has got to get done. 2009 CX-9 Grand Touring AWD

It not a catch 22 .... that is if you talk to professionals and not joe average dude or dudette . LOL if you still have under 200K miles and the oil is not burned (very dark red or black in color) then if you have over 100k miles it is better to have a shop that offers the service and has the machine to do a flushing and replacement of all the oil. This is something your should be talking with the shop. There is a lot of BS and MYTH surrounding the changing of fluid regarding an automatic transmission.

We do with not issues several full flushing and replacements each year! i

BTW I just did a service on my 2018 Mazda3 with less then 30kmiles..... technically I am still under a full warranty from MAZDA ..... you should see what I found LOL
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...like-do-44018/

 

I have a 2010 cx-9 GT with 145 kmls. I don't have any problem with the transmission till date, and same as OP I'm a bit concerned about changing the atf. I'm planning to add 7 or10 oz of this product "Lubeguard platinum 63010", to the atf. My part guy saying this will extend the life of my atf and restore it's original characteristics. Now my concerns are:
1. If I go with adding 7 or 10 oz of this formula, should I extract 7 or 10 oz of the existing atf before? Or this quantity is negligible and I can just add it without extracting any atf.
2. The instructions printed on the Lubeguard bottle states to add 1 oz formula per 1 Qt atf. So if I decided to go with it, can I add the whole 10 oz bottle neglecting that cx-9 transmission hold about 7 Qt only? So can I add 10 oz instead of 7?

 

ATF does not wear out or loose it properties. It just gets dirty!(motor oil , ATF and gear oil's are commonly recycled which is nothing more then cleaning process. ) I would not spend your money to add something that is already in your ATF fluid.

I would highly recommend to at least perform a filter service which will change at least 5 quarts from the pan and get a new filter. Plus you will get to examine the fluid in the pan. I saw you looking at my thread so you know what I am talking about.

 

Thank you for the quick reply, for my knowledge the 1st generation cx-9; the filter is internal and no pan to drop. Only the plug to drain part on the atf, about 4 qt. Any way to change the filter without removing the transmission?

 

I've had good results using Auto-Rx to clean the transmission. It is an ester based product, not a solvent, originally designed to clean the complete gear train of commercial printing presses. Add it, drive 1000 miles, do a complete fluid change. Note that just draining the transmission sump only removes about 1/3rd of the fluid. The remainder is trapped in the torque converter. There are instructions on line to do a complete fluid exchange.

For anyone concerned about doing damage (not likely), just drain the sump and add the correct new fluid. The next oil change, drain & refill again. And again the next oil change. You'll get clean fluid with the new, not-depleted additives package the transmission needs. (The story about doing damage probably comes from transmissions that are performing poorly because they're on the verge of failure. Changing the fluid is a hail Mary attempt to help. It doesn't; the transmission fails.)

ATF can deteriorate mainly due to overheating. It has a special additive package that is unique for each transmission maker. Some fluids work well in multiple makes of transmissions, and some transmissions must have their own secret sauce. The dark color of used ATF is mainly due to the fine particles off the clutch discs and not a problem. It might also be dark due to oxidation from overheating. That is a problem. If it smells burnt...it is.

As always--loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug and drain the fluid. If you can't loosen the fill plug, don't drain the fluid. Let a pro do it. Figure out what arrangement of pump or tubing & funnel or whatever it takes to fill the transmission before you drain it.

 

Pretty fair write up and information except about auto RX... this product as with most are condemned in the Performance Automotive community and most ALL better quality rated Transmission service shops in the US. Now you have been warned.

Oh and ATF does not deteriorate. But I would love to have you post a sample analysis that shows it does.

 

Crap.... yours get complicated.... for a few reasons. buuuuuuutttttt on the professional advise

I would at least minimum change the fluid , or better after the 100,000 miles or when the warranty has expired on the running gear (engine and transmission) to find a shop that can do a service fluid flush and replacement. Make sure the shop has the machine to do this service! Have them show it to you! Also make sure they have the proper adapter to do the work and not MacGyver something to work as substitute.

 

Well, I've had a guy with AAMCO tell me that my fluid is burned, the car has 165,000 on it. and said it should not be changed something about having metal shavings in the fluid. The dealer I bought it from said it needed to be changed and an independent shop said it should be changed but each one of them added the caveat that changing it could cause the trans to slip. Then to do the service they wanted my mortgage and first born of which I have neither. I was talking a minimum of $250 . I want to sort through what is the BS/Myth because I don't like contradictions. I want to know what the real deal is. Then I have some people say replace the spark plugs. The spark plugs have coils on them. My CX-9 does have a dipstick. It's hard to find but it is there.

 

Ok so now you are giving MORE information....

First how did they determine there was metal shaving in the fluid? This would mean that your filter was 100% full and nothing was getting filtered? Unless they sent a sample to have your fluid analyzed to determine what was in the fluid? Or went and asked the "8" ball the question to get the answer for you! lol

YES if you have metal particles in your "FLUID" unfiltered then your clutches or other internal parts are likely damaged and your are on borrowed time anyway. So this is where the myth starts. If you do any fluid changes now the clean fluid will also clean all the internal parts and filter out anything not suppose to be in the fluid and those metal shaving which may be the only thing keeping your transmission shifting well to any degree. (*long explanation why that is) Clean fluid and filter would clean the *metal shaving leaving the already damage clutches with NOTHING to grip and your transmission WILL SLIP then. Thus the MYTH!!!! people who waited to long to do a service and now its to late!


If you looked on my thread you would have seen my transmission oil analysis with lots of information. You could do the same for 30 bucks you would pretty much know about the internal condition of your transmission