Mazda CX-7 This sporty turbocharged 4 cylinder SUV combines the spirit of a performance car with the versatility of an SUV.

Need help 2010 cx-7

Old Jan 29, 2025 | 09:01 PM
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so, this is a car I’m trying to fix for my son. It was donated to us and supposedly the engine was replaced with a junk yard engine a while ago. I’ve been working on it since the day we got it a couple days ago. While trying to replace the timing chain I came up on my latest problem. See pictures above. The gap is bigger than .080 inches. It on the #1 exhaust valve. It the most serious of all the valves, tomorrow I’m gonna check them all with a feeler gauge. But I want someone’s opinion on this valve. Is the a bent valve or possibly something less serious. This is the only tapped that doesn’t spring back up against the cam lobe. So bottom line, how do I fix this.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 11:49 PM
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Welcome to the forum.


You have big work to replace the collapsed lifter. To get to them you need to remove the camshaft (s).
You can’t run the engine with the gap you measured or severe catastrophic engine damage is likely.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
Welcome to the forum.


You have big work to replace the collapsed lifter. To get to them you need to remove the camshaft (s).
You can’t run the engine with the gap you measured or severe catastrophic engine damage is likely.
Callistor, Thank you so much for the quick response. It's been a real struggle trying to fix this car. I thought that I might have to remove the head to fix the collapsed lifter. Do you have any idea why the lifter collapsed? Did the retainer that holds the spring come off? I looked inside the cylinder and the exhaust valve seems to be ok, just not fully seated.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 09:52 AM
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By the looks of the engine, very few regular oil changes and long miles in-between may have been a contributing element. So, it may be a good idea because you have to go that far into the head is to change all of them.

In your first picture i can see that the lifter was still rotating as it should but if you look there is a slight dark color ring on the side. This is an indication of dirty and long mileage between oil changes. Also, the camshaft itself has many signs supporting my thoughts.
 

Last edited by Callisto; Jan 30, 2025 at 09:54 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 11:46 AM
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So what part do you think I'll have to replace when I removed the camshaft and lifter? I'm trying to understand why the spring isn't pulling the valve closed when the #1 is TDC.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 2010cx7
So what part do you think I'll have to replace when I removed the camshaft and lifter? I'm trying to understand why the spring isn't pulling the valve closed when the #1 is TDC.
Sorry where are you seeing the valve??
The pictures are the camshaft and lifters?
A valve not closing is totally different area and concern?
The main reason a valve is not closing is a bent vale stem or broken valve spring? In which case you compression would be zero.
 

Last edited by Callisto; Jan 30, 2025 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 12:09 PM
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This is what could happen if it were a broken keeper, broken valve spring or bent vale stem. The head of the valve stuck in the top of the piston.



 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 01:10 PM
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The picture is of the #1 exhaust valve with the #1 cylinder at TDC.

I'm going to check the clearance on the other valves to see if they're bad.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 01:29 PM
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all three pictures are of the *lifter but the technical identifying part of function is actually *camshaft follower.





 

Last edited by Callisto; Jan 30, 2025 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
all three pictures are of the *lifter but the technical identifying part of function is actually *camshaft follower.




These are 2 photos of the #1 exhaust valve with the camshaft removed.  Besides being all burnt, I don’t see anything preventing the valve from fully closing.  I also boroscoped the inside of the cylinder with the exhaust valve fully open and I didn’t see any damage to the valve.  The engine rotates by hand freely without any resistance.  If the valve was bent, wouldn’t it make contact with the piston during rotation ?
These are 2 photos of the #1 exhaust valve with the camshaft removed. Besides being all burnt, I don’t see anything preventing the valve from fully closing. I also boroscoped the inside of the cylinder with the exhaust valve fully open and I didn’t see any damage to the valve. The engine rotates by hand freely without any resistance. If the valve was bent, wouldn’t it make contact with the piston during rotation ?

 
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