FYI: A "representative" of Mazda or any company does not make them reliable and/or knowledgeable.
In my years in motorcycling, I often came upon "representatives" who had a minimum if any knowledge of the products/models/items they were dealing and selling.
My suggestion is to just read the manual and forget what the representative said as "My thought" is they obviously couldn't comprehend the owner's manual and have no idea what they are talking about.
Brand of oil is irrelevant as far as Mazda is concerned just use the specified viscosity.
There are literally hundreds of free online Mazda cx-5 owner's manuals (Mazda website has them) and you can purchase them as well.

 

I agree Labstah!
At times some members posting are to technical , it easier for most owners and DIY to do as you suggested.

 

Had my second to last oil change under the package(6 oil changes) which I purchased with the car in '21. Today was a new wrinkle. The SA asked if I wanted to go ahead and get the "oil system service" for 54.95. In my mind I was thinking that is what I doing with the oil/filter change. I politely declined. They then called after looking the car over. I have just under 30k miles. They said my tires all needed replacement and gave me a $1050 quote. Also recommended an A/C system service for $150. I declined both of these as well. The funny thing is I asked about an ATM fluid service and was recently told it wasn't needed until 150k. I went to Discount Tire across the street and asked about my tires as I trust them with all my cars. They said I had 5k or so left in the tires and there was no need to change them now. What would an oil system service be? Some kind of additive? Callisto?

As an aside the oil is listed as MOIL-5W-30FS and says FULL SYNTH under the desription, so once again, my dealer seems to use full synthetic with every oil change on my 2.5T.

 

Ok so you and I both agree some dealership really push service work.
"Oil Systems service "???? I have never herd of that unless it is a contract for the future oil and filter changes only coasting you that amount. So as an example every 12 months and or 12k miles it cost you nothing for the next several years with the $54.95 contract cost o only that amount for a set number of time or oil/filter service changes??? hmmm?
Or
An additive included in the 54.95 with the basic oil and filter service with an additive included? And if they are using Mazda specified oil which I did read they are so my question is why you need an additive at your low miles> Peace of mind maybe. IDK lol

Tires is argumentative and varies from shop to shop. I use a durometer on the tread when the tires start to get at 60% worn for customers vehicles and compare to the miles brand and how what the wear pattern is. But once again, some dealership may tend to use a sooner scaling for that recommendation to replace tires. Again, it subjective and only shops that use a durometer can give the best factual information. About the tire performance capabilities.
Now the HAVC service ... I say WTF that is ridicules at your miles and year??? what possible problem could be in your HVAC system except maybe a dirty condenser. Use your garden hose and rinse it off send me 5 bucks saving you the $150 highly questionable HVAC service recommendation. rolmao!

As for your transmission, it clear how I feel about that and have stated that and information dozens of times on this forum . A simple pan and filter service should be done at least to peak at what's in the pan the pan magnet and the varnish on your valve body. Plus where in the world did that service advisor get the reference of 15pk miles before a service? hmmmm bad!
Dude you do take care of your vehicles so at least consider getting that service?


Conclusion .......is that SA is trying to get his add on service quota made for the month?

 

Oil system service just another way to say engine oil change.
Full synthetic oil change at my local dealer is (oil & filter & crush washer) $54.95.
Which is the same price to get it done just about anywhere here including Prompto, Jiffy Lube, Mobile and the like.
Tire life sounds about normal, I got 28,795 miles on my 2020 OEM tires.
But I guarantee if you took your CX-5 to 5 different garages you'd get 5 different opinions on your tire life.
You didn't say what tire your dealer was offering but my Pirelli Scorpion AS Plus were exactly $1040 mounted and balanced but that was November 2023.

 

Thanks for the replies. I got the idea the 54.95 oil system charge was for an additive of some kind. I didn't ask. The tires they offered were Kuhmo. To me they are not a premium brand. If they were Michelin or Pirelli, maybe. I am looking at a set of Sumitomo HTR A/S P03's at Discount Tire which will cost about $850 out the door and have a 65k mileage warranty. DT used an electronic gizmo which they ran across the tread of each tire and gave a reading. The dealer sent a video with the recomendations and it showed them using an old school tire gauge. And Callisto, yes, I am going to have the ATM fluid changed as you suggested. I had it done on my '20 Frontier at 30k as well. Seems like a good idea to me. I just wish I knew how to do it myself as it's pretty pricey.

One other thing they mentioned was the rear brakes were close to needing replacment. I was surprised to hear that at 30k, but I know there are a lot of variables. They said both rear's were at 6mm. I just had the front rotors and pads replaced due to repeated issues with pulsing so they are of course fine at 9mm. I read a thead on Reddit from a Mazda master tech who said OEM Mazda brake parts were not of good quality and recommended Brembo for replacement. I will likely see if I can find Brembo rotors for the rear when the time comes (wish I had done that for the front rotors as well).

 

I use Brembo brake pads as one of the options on my BBK I offer on another platform as well Ferodo . IMO based on using, testing and selling them for decades these are overall IMO the best pads on the market!

I highly recommend to upgrade the brake lines and use a performance brand brake fluid when converting over to either of these. Also make sure that if not replacing the rotors to have them machined and it is really a good idea to have even new ones machine to get the best life and performance from the new brake pads mentioned chosen


Changing the transmission fluid and filter for DIY is simple.

Ramps
oil catch pan
basic commination metric wrenches.
single edge razor(not always needed)
Basic metric socket set
Long tube funnel

Thats it!

DIY first time it will take about an *hour and half. Next time about 45 minutes


*The part that takes the longest to do is removing the stock air box and plastic undercover the first time.

 

I got 36,670 miles before a brake job but I'm fanatical about proper braking technique compared to my normal 45-50K
I normally upgrade my vehicle brakes at the first change pads/rotors and calipers occasionally lines.
Back no longer allows me to do it myself anymore, so this time I just had my local wrench use EBC pads and rotors.
I didn't even get drilled and slotted this time, which is normal for me.
Not sure why I didn't do a full upgrade as the OEM brakes are the only weak spot for me on the CX-5.
But that is likely because of many years of all my sportbikes with Brembo brakes and stainless lines.

 

I should have included EBC in my to go to use list but I technically use that for service-related customers and not any that are performance oriented.
As for drilled or slotted or drilled and slotted, they are for look basically on a streetcar and yes, I do and will use them on most of my street driven vehicles but not for any performance gains. Mostly because like you I rely on driving technique and not to be supported by brakes. I tend to like you use considerably thought braking and skilled braking which not only increases the efficiency of the brakes, but they last much longer.
I have gone to a few Performance driving schools and the cars they had us train in had a brake alarm that was so loud it made you flinch every time you touch the brakes. the point was to retrain the brain not to use the brakes as much and to use better driving techniques. Save the brakes WIN the RACE. This followed me to street use of brakes which just increased their life span but not reduced safe driving and braking.


I can state that the rear electric parking brake currently drives me up the wall. because the pad wear at its current measurement takes 1.5 seconds to activate and lock. That is almost a full second longer then when there is more material 65% or more on the pads. So in the future I may change out the rears more often, they are cheap and I don't want to hear that longer delay on the ebrake activation. LOL

BRIMBO always on the street bike and track bikes!!

 

I ordered a set of pads and rotors from Rockauto. They didn't have Brembo so I went with Bosch Quietcast which arrived today. They appear to be very nicely made with coating all over the rotors. Hopefully they will do a good job. I will have them installed soon.