I just performed an oil change on my 2019 CX-5 Sport at 14750 miles. The first 3 were done by the dealer. I have some observations and I hope someone will comment on their experience.

I used Mobil1 Full Synthetic 0W20 Extended Performance and a Mobil1 M1-108A filter.

1- Getting the panel off was pretty easy but the push-clip was a little tricky. I also found that one of the push-clips was missing. I guess the dealer lost it.

2- Removing the drain plug and filter were routine, but it took the oil a long time for the oil to drain, even though it was warm. Most of it drained pretty quickly but then there was a steady slow drizzle for about 10 minutes.

3- I used a Dorman drain plug washer. It was a hair thinner than the one I removed. What did surprise me was that it was not a crush washer that I'm used to. So once the oil pan drain plug and washer first contacted the oil pan, there was very little tightening to do. I'm used to the extra half turn as the washer crushes.

4- When I added the oil, I checked after 4 quarts and it seemed full. After starting the car to get the oil into the filter, it still seemed full. I added another half quart and it didn't make any difference how full it looked.

5- I found the dip stick about the hardest one I ever tried to read. One side seemed over full (smeared with oil) and the other side had no oil on it. Rotating it after bottoming it resulted in smeared oil on both sides. I tried to discern the subtle spot where the oil level might really be. I know it's not very over full or vert under full. I used 4.5 quarts of oil and it calls for 4.8 quarts. I'll check again in a couple of hours after the car has sat for a while. Does anyone else find the oil level hard to read?

6- I don't like that in order to see if there is any leaking from the drain plug or filter, I will need to take off the panel. I'm so used to checking after my first drive by just looking under the car and touching around the edge of the oil plug and filter. Anyone have any tricks to see if there is any leaking?

It took about 1 hour 15 minutes but I'm sure my next change will be quicker now that I've done one.

 

Mazda oil pan washers both engine and transmission are a crush washer even if you don't think or see it.
The dip stick is easy to read, you need to let the oil settle back to the sump before attempting to see the level.
The lower line and upper line mean the operating fluid level and not low or full like old school. BIG MYTH on forums and lots of debate from thousands never have taken the oil pan of a Mazda Skyactiv engine and done a little learning. LOL.
You can always leave the panel off and it will NOT harm anything for a day of city driving or maybe a 1/2 hours drive around the "HOOD" and check for leaks. I seriously doubt from yur info you did anything wrong and even less likely would have any leaks. However next time use the correct drain plug washer.
Nice write up seems you had fun doing your first oil change!

 

I'm pretty sure it was the correct sized drain plug washer. It just wasn't OEM. It was the Dorman 095-147 : Aluminum Drain Plug Gasket, Fits M14. It had the same internal and external diameters as the one from the dealer that was on the plug. I just observed that it was slightly thinner.

 

Doorman has traditionally always been a good re-boxer of auto parts. I use Doorman myself from time to time.

 

Callisto, can you explain the 245whp NA claim in your signature? Very intriguing.

 

Off topic but here is a quick answer...1st not a claim
Last DYNO (*engine/Trans 185F/ambients70F/IAT75F100octane) with all the upgrades to the engine including a complete ECU calibration of all the cells available with Versa Tuner with the exception of TCM operation and the carefully set Deltas on the Dyno with several *repeated runs for accuracy.
BTW I could add the addition 50 HP with the Nitous at a touch of a button.
I believe there is not much ore I can get without adding a Turbo ( my BWD) or a Supercharger(been looking into a Sprintex possibility)

 

If you look at the pictures of these aftermarket and correct size and type drain plug washers, they are a crush design for proper sealing against flat surfaces.

These will fit on most MAZDA oil and transmission pans from 2014 production and newer gas engines

 

callisto - That's what mine looks like also. But I'm used to the crush washers for Subarus. They're flat on one side and bulged on the other. The flat side goes against the base of the oil drain plug. When you tighten the oil drain plug, after the bulged side of the washer first engages the oil pan, you get about 1/2 turn as the washer crushes down. Then you tighten it down a little more after that. With the Mazda washer, once it engages the drain pan, you don't get the crush effect. You just tighten it down a little more.

Subaru crush washer :

 

I am not disagreeing with you nor saying you did use the wrong washer I am only supping more supportive information for other members about the drain plug washer for MAZDA . BTW there is actually a specific torque value on the drain plug to secure and properly "crush" it for sealing. Part of the reason it is a requirement from MAZDA to always replace the oil pan washer when it is removed. Many MAZDA oil filter come with a new washer.

 

I know that.

Also I'm glad you are on this site. You always answer people's questions. Props!!