My 2015 CX-5 Touring is at about 45,000 miles.

Lately, when I brake at high speed, I get a shimmy in the steering wheel. To me this has always meant that I need new rotors, likely the front ones.

How long are people getting out of their rotors? Could it be something else?

Also, while I'm comfortable changing the pads, I can't recall when I last changed rotors. How big of a job is this or should I leave it to my mechanic. If it's fairly straightforward on the CX-5, I'll do it myself to save some money.

Anyhow, back to the basic questions- is this likely a need for new rotors or could it be something else? I did just take my snows off so it *could* be a wheel balance issue.. or no?

Any input would be helpful. I don't want to spend $$ where I don't need to. Thanks!

 

Almost assuredly front rotors. Not difficult to change. Save even more $$ by having them turned rather than replacing.

 

Most replacement brake rotors are priced to make it cheaper to replace rather than turn your old ones.

Worst brake job I ever got was from a Mazda dealer just before I moved 1600 miles. Worst shimmy I've ever experienced.

 

I figured that it was the rotors.

Any tips? I've not yet found a how to or video on the CX-5.

Also, any recommendations on brands? Just go with OEM replacements solid discs or standard AutoZone type offerings? This isn't a high performance vehicle so I don't see the reason for any sort of upgrade... unless somebody has a good suggestion otherwise.

Thanks as always.

 

Online prices for (OEM) front rotors is $75/ea and (Autozone) $66/ea. I can get rotors turned all day long for $10-15/ea. I am so sick of reading about how "cheap" decent replacement rotors are in these forums!

 

Keep in mind a new rotor is significantly better than a "turned" rotor. Why? A few reasons in no particular order:

• The turning process removes metal from the disc which reduces the thermal mass (i.e. amount of heat the rotor can endure before it becomes too hot and overheats) which in turn can cause the metal to retemper and/or warp the disc.
• If a rotor has already been subject to excess heat, turning will not restore the disc.
• In this modern era, rotors are already nearing their minimum thickness when new; run them for say 50,000 miles and then turn them and you'll find you have rotors at or below the minimum thickness.

 

There's a reason manufacturers list a minimum thickness right on the rotor. If the rotor is heat-warped to the point that it can't be made true without going below that limit, then it must be replaced. I've never had to replace a rotor in more than 50 years of driving. Never even gotten close to the wear limit!

 

And yet I've had many; granted I've only been driving since 1973.

 

The reason rotors are so cheap to replace is they don't really have the meat to allow turning them down.

 

The reason rotors are so cheap to replace is they don't really have the meat to allow turning them down.