Not sure why the pictures wont post in the other responses??

 

Don't rite off the vacuum gauge there a valuable tool for quick and easy diagnosis and tuning. . I also have one of those Snapon timing lights and still have cars I use it on. OMG history.

 

Technically the current mpg ( current miles per gallon) is doing the same thing only you need to learn to read the numbers differently.And that the gauge is not displaying full mpg only up to 99.99 . While connecting directly to the ECU there are areas that are not programed to tailor the display slower and limited which makes them less accurate for impg (instant miles per gallon) monitoring. If you look at the first picture and compare the dash to actual on the Ultra gauge which is unlimited and instantly accurate.
The point is when idling the Mazda dash will not show MPG but the ultra gauge will because it reads as a vacuum gauge.
However I personally still prefer a vacuum gauge and if there was a place to mount one in my Mazda without looking out of place I would have one.

I still use a vacuum gauge at time in the engine compartment connect to a direct vacuum source to see how the engine is idling and what the ignition timing advance is doing . Lots of good information to collect as to what the engine is doing and any possible concerns.

 

Many years ago I taught a post trade tuning and electrical class and apart from the good old scope (invaluable for ignition systems) always placed the importance of 4 tests on an engine. Manifold vacuum, compression, cylinder leakage and power balance but these days that cost a lot of money and too many shade tree mechanics prefer to replace parts when it's the engine that has the problem. OH it slipped my mind an oil change with a miracle additive (restore and protect) will fix it. HAHA.

 

It's only 2 degrees here this morning and going to be colder this weekend.
Near impossible for anything to warm up we have no choice but to like ice coffee...

 

Sadly Those types give the auto service industry the poor reputations in many areas of the world. Oh and the "bazillion" DIY that post how-to on the internet

Do you remember JC Whitney selling the black ***** that you removed a spark plug and place one in each cylinder and they advertised restore your engine like new? LOL

 

Doesn’t look like anything is added but the hitch and 4 pin adapter. And if the adapter isn’t stock on all CX-5’s it would require splicing, not a big deal but can be a pain. Some vehicles do hide the adapter under the bumper.
I wouldn’t be towing much, mainly a hitch carrier for dead deer or a cooler.
What I really want to carry is my dirt bike on a black widow carrier. About 330lbs total. The question is whether the frame can handle it. Draw tite shows a 450lb tongue weight limit on the CX-5 hitch, but I think that’s the hitch limit not frame.
Tongue weight is usually 10% of tow capacity. Seeing how the turbo cx-5 trailer rating is 3.5k I would assume the same frame strength exists on a 1.5k tow limit cx-5. Meaning possible tongue weight of 350lbs.
Seeing 2025 CX-5 selects at $29,251 around here, certified 2025 selects at around $23.5k with 25k miles.

 

It more or less a common sense thought process. When towing my advice is add 1/3 greater values of the expected weight to be towed and then consider which towing parts will best service this. The engine capacity is generally not a concern unless you are going to be increasing the towing capacity more than a 3/4 of the max stated values and always estimate the vehicles weight full tank of fuel and aprox. weight of passengers and luggage and add a couple hundred extra lbs to be safe.

You might also go to a RV sales and service company and talk to the service department about a towing package install for your MAZDA or any other vehicle for that matter. They are expert at not only installing various towing bars and hitches but making custom towing components. Dealers and general service shops are not really the best places to get towing hitches installed!

I know we have some private piolets in the forum, and you know what I am talking about when you are doing your preflight check list before you step foot in your plane you are carefully looking at all the luggage and asked each person what their weight is and adding a few extra pounds. Woman never seem to want to tell you their actual weight LOL I know I do all this each and every time I fly!

This is not defect then your ground vehcle be safe or be stupid when many accidents happen regarding towing it generally caused from not taking all things into consideration.

Oh I always get a chuckle when I read or people say that wiring a trailer is a PIS..... really 4 or 6 wires.... (unless you have aftermarket electric trailer brake) LOL Then you should not be the one to wire the trailer.

The other BIG rule of thumb if you are going to tow and it is more than 1/2 the total capacity then for safety effecting handling and braking always get high pressure upgraded rear dampeners installed Always always always!!! Factory dampeners on the rear were never intended for towing to or close to capacity!!!

 

[QUOTE=Callisto;241410 Do you remember JC Whitney selling the black ***** that you removed a spark plug and place one in each cylinder and they advertised restore your engine like new? LOL[/QUOTE]

Hahahaha....good old JC Whitney, every part I bought from them had to manually "readjusted to fit", especially motorcycle items.
I actually used that Overhaul Kit on my "smoking" Corvette to see if it actually did anything at all.
The ***** looked like some type of solder to me.
Obviously, it coated the spark plugs after a few minutes of engine running but after I replaced them it actually put the compression back into spec.
Not sure how long it would've lasted as I was getting the engine redone anyway and took it to the shop a week later.
The guy who did my engine said it did a surprising job but was already wearing off.
Other than the plug issue he didn't find any lasting damage and after the rebuild was still running like a top when I sold it (no place in back for the car seat .
Much like the old dry mustard in the leaking radiator trick.

 

I don't normally say this, but I actually had a product listed in JC Whitney for several years. Sold hundreds of the product through a marketing company over a few years until there was an industry auto manufacturing change in a single part, then the product slowly declined in sales.

I still thing alumAseal for radiators is some of the worst substance you can add especially when you are the service shop that needs to replace cooling system parts or service the coolant. KRINGE

Labstah I am glad to see that you used someone's ad selling that stuff and not something you kept around...