I have a 2014 CX5 Touring with 140k miles on it.

It recently started spazzing into limp mode. The engine will stutter, dash lights flash (CEL, traction control, and TPS stay on with the TPS flashing), and have low power for all of 2 seconds and then power comes back and it drives fine.

The dash lights stay on though. When I turn the car off and back on, the CEL is on, but the traction control and TPS lights will be gone.

The only code being thrown is P0882 - “TCM Power Input Signal”. I did replace the battery about a month ago (the P0882 says its a permanent code, so I'm not sure if it's a relic from battery replacement).

But there are no engine codes that come up on my OBD2 scanner.

I can clear the codes with my scanner, all the dash lights go off and all is well for another 50-75 miles when it’ll spazz for two seconds and then be fine.

It’s only done it at super low speeds (pulling into garage, parking space, etc).

Any ideas what could be happening here? When researching this it seemed every other limp mode experiences people had threw definitive codes and would last until the fixed the problem or turned off/restarted the engine. I couldn't find any other experiences of this random stuttering and then all seeming well.

 

Happened to me on my 13' Grand Touring model with one failed coil at about 60k miles; had to replace all four and everything was fine after that. Seems that there was an issue with the original coils and Mazda made a mfg. change to them.

 

Permanent codes will be reset by the PCM after a pre-determined number of drive cycles, and the code is no longer being actively set. So the permanent P0882 remaining for a month means that that fault causing that code is still present.

Any TCM-related code on these transmissions is potentially really bad news, because the TCM is built into the control valve body, which is located inside to the transmission case. So any issue with the TCM or associated near wiring would require replacing the control valve body, which will be an expensive job. And that would be the case even for a DIYer who is capable of doing the work, because in addition to the OEM part, programming of it by a stealership appears to be required.

About the only thing you can do on your own at this point is to examine the control valve body connector and all of the related exterior wiring you can get access to. It would be fortunate indeed to find some issue with the connector or wiring, that you could repair (such as rodent damage). And you should definitely undo that connector and carefully examine both sides for corrosion. Another fairly simple thing to do is to remove and reinsert all fuses and relays from both fuse boxes. Doing that might possibly 'shake loose' a bit of corrosion that's formed over the years. These are all longshot things, which unfortunately most likely won't resolve the problem. However they're easy to do, and every once in a blue moon one of those things actually is successful. I once had a radiator fan issue get resolved when I discovered just a bit of corrosion inside of a PCM connector, so I can say for certain that it is possible.

 

Thanks for replying. Might try that as a fix and see if it helps.

Yikes!! I’ll try futzing with the fuses and clean all the connectors really well.

We have a new car on order that’ll be replacing this one, but doesn’t arrive until March.

So I only need it to last another 8-10 weeks. 🤞

Thanks for all the help here guys. I’ll give them all a try.