Morning, wife's CX5 76k oil service at the dealer and come home with a list of things to replace. One of them is to replace the front rotors and pads. I want to see dose anyone have experience with after market replacement parts? I will do the work myself so any experience is greatly appreciate! This is what I am looking at so far. Thanks.

R1 Concepts Front Brakes and Rotors Kit (Amazon $221)
Power Stop CRK7690 Coated Rotor Front Brake Kit- Coated Brake Rotors & Z17 Ceramic Brake Pads (Amazon $225)

 

I'm getting the aftermarket Power Stop Z23 front and rear kit put on next week.
While I've done all my other past vehicles, I will have an experienced Mazda tech do them on my CX-5.
Basically, because I'm not all that comfortable with all the electronic braking maintenance modes and have zero experience with the Mazda one.
If the tech messes up than he/she and the shop are liable.
Plus, I'm admittedly getting too old to physically do what is required without "pulling some type of muscle".
I expect the brakes will perform just as good as they have on every other vehicle I've installed them on.

 

I 'm in the same boat. I only have 25k on my brakes, but the front rotors are pulsing badly. I had them machined once and the issue recurred. I purchased another set of Mazda OEM rotors and pads. Going to have them done at an indy shop.

 

I have the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors on my Acura TL before; I follows the break-in procedure to the t's but I still managed to wrap the disc! Thanks for the suggestion.

 

These will work just fine replacing your MAZDA brake parts. I might also suggest that you look into the fron front brake lines and upgrading to a "performance" brand which will increase the brake feel.

Well while I cant post it because I am a "BY THE BOOK" when it comes to posting any service procedure there is a way seldom almost never and hard to find way that makes changing the rea electronic E-brake and servicing the pads and rotors as easy as a 1970's car with rear disc brakes. PM should you ever feel like you want to do your own brakes and Ic an let you know the procedure!
Please unless I know you from this forum for a length of time don't PM and ask...
*ASE *for this response will say I am just a DIY!

This has to do exactly with how and where you were using your brakes. Please don't quote internet information. As I have said more than once I engineer and develop BBK front and rear for a couple of model specific platforms, I know the composition of individual brake component and I very well know the main cause of what you describe. But if you can tell me before you start to refute this, please tell me the Metallurgy and exact composition of the rotors you used. Then we would at least have the same frame of reference to discuss.

For the record the choice for any legally following the laws, street driven vehicles drilled , drilled and slotted or just slotted has no real advantage except the performance appeal. And depending on which choice increased sound caused by the air disruption caused by the slots or drilled holes. To be clear I live with those sounds and do like the aesthetic ofthem and prefer drilled and slotted for many of my street driven vehicles.
Power STOP brake products are a middle line quality brake parts supplier. And as for your braking experience I am must also include you with my previous response about brake pulsing causes. If you did not change the brake master cylinder or the brake hydraulic parts at the time.

Something I should mention is the use of slotted and or drilled or both does effetely increase your stopping distance. While it is only slight is nevertheless measurable. Something to note as well look into what your performance information is about your STOCK vehicle and consider. Rember that that performance information published by auto manufacture do not graph out the performance stopping from 60-0 MPH with change in load variables. And many don't list the test GVW for the testing.

Note that the universal testing and published stopping distance from 60mph to zero mph (60-0mph)for USA and Canada(some other countries) does not account for the new normal average max speed limits now in most states. So, when you factor in those speed limits and do your calculation you would be surprised if not shock to the distance your vehicle will travel at those max speed limits before stopping in a perfect road condition!

Speed limits in the United States - Wikipedia

 

As far as my post, I don't need to delve into the metallurgy of the rotors to know my rotors are pulsing. They started doing it shortly after getting this car and I had them resurfaced once which stopped it for a while, then it happened again. This did NOT happen on my previous '19 CX-5 with smaller diameter rotors. No idea why this one has the issue, but I will try one more set of OEM's before trying aftermarket.

So you are saying drilled/slotted rotors result in LONGER stopping distances? Interesting. I wonder why BMW's M division specked 4 wheel cross drilled rotors as OEM on my 2006 M Roadster? Also, most high end sports cars have cross drilled rotors these days. Just for looks? Maybe...

 

Actually you knowing the material composition and how the base disc was manufactured has everything important to do with a conversation pertaining to a disc/rotor not performing as thought properly unless you can empirically explain how yours faulted. Its how they are used.

As for BMW its because it sells vehicles. Some of us that are "ENGINERRS" in the Automotive industry and especially those that design performance parts know that. LOL

Maybe better have a look at f current design of Formula 1 and NASCAR? Those that are using drilled and or slotted rotors are generally because of their contingency and not for better braking. And the slots are used for a different purpose then once thought. You can also look into several testing of rotors using thermal imagery and temperature measuring that actually show that overall, more surface area is better for braking and the old school testing and theories their results decades ago of why use slots or rotors have been replaced basically due to better quality raw material and manufacturing processes.

I purchase raw disc and machine them as per what my customers want or for a specific use. The material on some I require a certification sheet as to it material and at times a copy of the x-ray. I have personally had BMW rotors like you mentioned x-ray and found dark area's that indicate manufacturing quality. Most predominately with their drill and or slotted rotors. I have personally talked to a BMW drivetrain engineer about this and he said that it fits the qualification for safety on a production line BMW that were NEVER intended for performance usage. Why you ask would I happen to choose BMW as an example.... not to debate on something you have little information about, but it just so happens one of the Platforms I offer a BBK (Big Brake Kit) both front and rear (even an ECU program adjustment and or electric or mechanical brake bias adjuster) a BMW manufactured model in the early 20's. lol

The 3 grooves in my machined by me disc are to specifically help reduce or prevent brake pad material caking because this set up in the picture uses metallic performance racing pads.

Pictured My Rear BMW model BBK. Completely engineered and designed and built/assembled by me.




To further give my experience about brake parts specifically pads and disc/rotors on my personal MAZDA thread I have a front and rear set of drilled and slotted rotors that I machined specifically for the LOOKS not theorized outdated old school function of the drilled or slotted.

Mazda3 Things I like to do - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

Starting on post #170...

I love a good technical conversation..... LOL