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Manufacturer
Mazda
Production years
2013-present day
Cylinder block material
Aluminum
Cylinder head material
Aluminum
Fuel type
Gasoline
Fuel system
Direct fuel injection
Configuration
Inline
Number of cylinders
4
Valves per cylinder
4
Valvetrain layout
DOHC
Bore, mm
89.0 (3.50 in)
Stroke, mm
100.0 (3.94 in)
Displacement, cc
2,488 cc (151.8 cu in)
Type of internal combustion engine
Four-stroke, naturally aspirated
Compression Ratio
14.0:1 (13.0:1 - the US, Canada and Australia)
Power, hp
184-189 hp (137-141kW)/ 5,800
Torque, lb ft
185-189 lb-ft (251-256 Nm)/ 3,250
Engine weight
-
Firing order
1-3-4-2
Engine oil weight
SAE 5W-30, 5W-20;
SAE 0W-20 (USA, Canada)
Engine oil capacity, liter
4.5 (0.2 - oil filter)
Oil change interval, mile
12,000 (20,000 km)/12 months
Applications
Mazda CX-5, Mazda6, Mazda3
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Obviously, this is not consistent with the User Manual. And, I am sure, every knowledgeable person will tell me to follow the User Manual.
As a final note, I will note that my last car, 2008 Chevy Cobalt LS with.... L61 (?) Engine.... ran its last 10K miles (before it died for other reason) on synthetic oil without burning an oz. of oil and without the oil turning significantly different from original clear/honey color. I did not send it to lab for analysis, so you can conclude what you will. I think it is well known from other forums that Europeans, in general, think our 3,000 mile, or 5,000 mile oil changes are some kind of American mental disorder. And they are probably entirely right about 3K-5K mile oil changes. 7.5K changes (I believe as per CX-5 Owner's Manual) is also probably unnecessary and a waste of expensive synthetic oil.
I am sure this will start an argument, including that one would risk the engine warranty with 10k mile oil changes, which I recognize.
As and 'old school' thinker, if your oil is still clear/honey-coloured, I don't think it is watered-down with combustion by-products and if it is.... six months old? the additives are not worn and gone.
Frankly the forums that are well informed with imperial information on a the subject of oil and has a worldwide membership pretty much agree to do 10k oil and filter changes.
I do analysis and change my oil and filter at 3k and I always get the note I could have gone to 7k miles.
The real eyeopener is the first oil change I did on my MAZDA all the material that came out of the new engine. Based on that analysis why any one would go to the recommend first oil service is ridicules. But I understand it would confuse most vehicle owners. I recommend that if you have a new vehicle to change the oil and filter at between. 2k-3k miles and start your oil and filter changing cycles from that starting point?
The bottom line is everyone has there idea's and there will always be "THAT GUY" who claims getting 15-20k or gobs more miles on their choice of oil without any issues and has over a MILLION miles on their engine. LOL
So Callisto, thank you. I value your input. As in cars of the days of old, you would say that in the 'breakeven period', the engine is shedding a lot of metal fragments, etc ? And these are getting caught in the filter or are sub-filtration size and are circulating? If that first oil change is still critical (as in the old days), I will go with your advice. Is metal from break in the main issue on the first change or are you point to other initial change issues? Thank you. Reuben
The engine uses a lot of break in lubricants and many material particles fall to the pan not caught by the oil filter.
Also if you have an automatic it is very important to do oil and filter service starting at 20-30k miles and there after.
Post #98
Mazda skiactiv automatic transmission oil analysis.
BTW it took 3 more oil and filter services at 3000 miles between each to completely rid the engine of all but normal oil only. So that would be 12k miles that most first start thinking about changing their oil and filter?? lol
I have several other oil analyses over the last few years and 37k+ miles on my MAZDA.
Callisto: Thank you again. To be clear, you are saying auto trans service is necessary at 20k-30K? Filter and fluid?
And what frequency service would you do on trans after that? Same?
Finally, rear differential and front transfer case (do I have that correct regarding front-end?) Those use heavy gear oil and what oil change interval do you feel
is needed on those?
Callisto: Thank you again. To be clear, you are saying auto trans service is necessary at 20k-30K? Filter and fluid?
And what frequency service would you do on trans after that? Same?
Finally, rear differential and front transfer case (do I have that correct regarding front-end?) Those use heavy gear oil and what oil change interval do you feel
is needed on those?
Thank you so much. Reuben
Necessary may get me into a debate with other members I prefer PREVENTATIVE MAINTENCE!
The first transmission service should be done with dropping the pan changing the filter and completely cleaning the pan and OEM ring magnet. This way you can see first had all the gunk and also start a baseline service record. I would likely change the filter again at the next 15-20k but somewhere in between at least pull the drain plug and do a pan fluid change just to check things out. Get a DIMPLE magnet drain plug.
The differential will depend on how you use your MAZDA. But I would do a fluid service at least around 40-50k miles.
Oil and filters are cheap, engines and transmission are not. So ya OLD SCHOOL thoughts about changing fluid is still GOOD SCHOOL PRACTICES.... IMHO
How a vehicle is used is as important as miles if not more so.
European autos, at least the one's I'm familiar with, have larger oil pans and
European oil specs seem a step or two up from US based synthetics.
That is part of the reason they go, or claim to go, 10K miles or more.
How a vehicle is used is as important as miles if not more so. **European autos, at least the one's I'm familiar with, have larger oil pans and
**European oil specs seem a step or two up from US based synthetics.
That is part of the reason they go, or claim to go, 10K miles or more.
My 2¢
Your first part is always a good consideration by the user of any vehicle but your second part of your response
**both are not really accurate...
I have imported and owned several grey market European vehicles also I belong to an auto forum based in Germany and have never read what you are suggesting? But I would be interested if you can find a few as an example of having larger oil sumps vs USA model same platform and post them?
Didn't imply that foreign auto makers use smaller oil sumps for US imports. But I've known of several German cars with 7 qt oil capacity
and maybe one with 8 qts. That was a few years ago. I do recall a mention of a vehicle with a 10 quart pan.
Obviously, a larger pan and better oil would 'allow' for long OCIs.
I did notice that he 'oil life monitor' on my CX-5 was programs for 7500 miles. But I have the Turbo engine
which Mazda says should be 5000 miles. I reset it.
Didn't imply that foreign auto makers use smaller oil sumps for US imports. But I've known of several German cars with 7 qt oil capacity
and maybe one with 8 qts. That was a few years ago. I do recall a mention of a vehicle with a 10 quart pan.
Obviously, a larger pan and better oil would 'allow' for long OCIs.
I did notice that he 'oil life monitor' on my CX-5 was programs for 7500 miles. But I have the Turbo engine
which Mazda says should be 5000 miles. I reset it.
My 2¢
Ok. Thanks Dennis
You may not beware and maybe that's where the idea of European cars vs USA and engine sump capacity may have come from there are some USA vehicle's that do have larger sumps Cadilac (what a PIA along with battery under the rear seat) being one example. And were factory options for some packages that a larger sump option was available. However, it DOES NOT extend the oil life.
The reason many auto manufactures now recommend sooner oil change service on Turbo Models is the DIY Turbocharge engine owners tend to dismiss normal servicing and this historically led to many problems in the past with Turbocharged engines.
CX-5 2.5L NA - Oil change interval
