Tested battery if load tested with a battery that was first charged and check or check to be at have stabilized 12.5 volts min is required to properly test a battery.

Also tapping a starter is not a definitive way to absolutely state the cause is a failing Battey. Given that your Mazda is a 2020. This seems more like a connection issue. But that a guess based on the VERY limited information in this thread.

Failing starter common causes from a 202 production vehcle causes and assuming less then 100K miles?
Extremally dirty or consistently exposed to the elements i.e. water. dirt. Salt air to name a few.
Constantly starting with a battery that cannot support its designed CCA. (verified battery state of health via load testing) This can heat the components inside the starter specifically the motor winding that can slowly start to separate and increase electrical resistance that will eventually cause a starter to fail.
Poor or dirty battery cable connections can cause less then needed full battery voltage (12.50 min.) during starting then all or some of the uphove other causes can prematurely cause the starter to develop starting issues.

Whacking a stater is not a means to determine a starter unit failing. That really is old Scholl methods (NEVER in any training for a mechanic procedure that I have ever read) long extinct from about at least 2000 to present based on how starters are no manufactured and the type of starters used in most all Mazda's since at least 2000 possibly into the 90's?

 

If he swaps out the starter and it solves the issue we would know it was correct, eh? It could be wrong, but I suppose if he is going to DIY the repair, it could be cheaper than having someone else diagnose it (I have no idea what a starter for a Mazda CX-5 costs). Not something I see much on the Mazda forums (starter failures), but some will last a lot less than others.

 

Responses about swapping parts (in general) to resolve questions about other parts but about starter swapping, would that work to solve the starter function property question. 2 words not really!!! Here is why because of the act of removing the power cables itself could cure the issue or the act or removing the starter and not attempting to reinstall it and see if it now works to be able to somewhat claim it is a faulty starter? And lastly before buying and installing a new starter to bench test the suspected failing starter removed, One could even go further checking the electrical part of it. But that would require disassembly, and I don't expect many to go that far. .
Swapping parts is one of the worst ways to find a problem and more so when you are swapping installed parts the most common is coil swapping to resolve an undetermined ignition DTC or misfiring cylinder issue.
As I stated it would be rare for a Mazda starter to have gone bad with the limited information and lack of information provided. but the information that was provided the battery and the cables condition has not been ruled out .

Not sure about the obvious comment about the longevity of a Mazda starters (but really that comment can be said about any auto part, LOL ) from say 2000 to present. Contacting most retail auto parts store (USA) and asking their stocking level for Mazda starters is level 1 stocking (one in inventory) and maybe 12-15 covering the older Mazda's from 1990 back to the 70S and then maybe?? I did not say warehouse distributors and suppliers of those retail outlets.

 

it's done it to me 4x in less than 24 hours now.

Maybe I'm wasting my money. I guess we'll find out real quick.

 

Battery posts and cables themselves before changing the battery and after changing the battery were as clean as a baby's bottom. The engine is very clean with virually zero rust as is the rest of the car. It's got 245,000 kms which is 150,000 miles.

Thanks for the info though. Always good to hear multiole opinions.

The battery was tested while the car was on for 5 minutes. It never responded to a booster either as a means to start the car. It's only responded to the starter tap.

 

That’s is not the way to test the battery. Learn what load testing a battery means
Thats not even a way or indication of the generator health let alone the ECU info that’s controls the charging rate of the generator.

 

Before or after a diaper change

Get the battery properly load tested before you do anything else.
With that many miles it is not improbable that you have a starter issue but why buy one if that isn't the issue.

 

funny thar wheh cold, it starts normally

 

yet another post (#18) that points to at least the battery needing to be properly checked via load tested.

A car battery has a sweet spot of optimal use. 40f - 80f Cooler temperature (not lower then 30F approx. and varies depending on the brand of battery used) allows the battery to work better. Just as hotter operating (not more than 90f approx. and varies depending on the brand of battery used) ) or in the environment of under hood temperatures exceeding 130f (approx. and varies depending on the brand of battery used) for normal driving the battery is not at optimal environmental temperatures. Now when a battery is not at its designed and stated CCA then you have a starting issue. It can by both constant and intermittent.

 

yeah, bringing to the dealership for a second opinion.

Fyi the battery brand is right from a Mazda dealership