So glad by feet aren't that hairy.

 

I will chime in and say that going from driving a '21 Touring NA with 17" rims to my '21 Carbon Edition Turbo with 19" rims, I can feel a pretty decent difference in braking. I would imagine the braking setup is bigger in my car versus the more simple Touring edition. My car feels a bit more firm and grippier when braking...

 

When I go to tire sites such as Discount Tire, they give the braking distance for the different tires. That distance can vary quite a bit. Could another solution for the thread starter be to switch tires to a set with the shortest stopping distance?

 

You should start your own thread. The OP has started the exact question pertaining to brakes not tires which in the case of braking is completely different.
My only comment about their testing is that you need to read the condition set to know that duplication in the real world will be close but not exact. And that small difference in ambient temperatures, tarmac temperatures and any changes in tire pressure based on temperatures, the exact gross vehicle weight tested including the driver all have effect on the 60-0 braking evaluations and results. Accelerometers are used to time and test the results which are very accurate but only should be used with all the aforementioned considerations. Tires support the brakes as brakes support the tires and the suspension as well supports both those other parts when it comes to braking performance.
However, the most noticeable improvement the average driver for improved braking performance will notice when comparing a factory braking system and its parts are the brake pads and the disc/rotor chosen. Tire overall performance is more or less learned through levels of observation, experience in different driving environments and situation like weather (to name a few factors) while brakes are more consistent with performance in most of those areas of operating environments and conditions.

Now if you do start your own thread I may copy and paste this response there?

 

Four special compound tires that will achieve better stopping distance are about the same cost as a complete brake system upgrade.
A system upgrade will perform better and last much longer (excluding pads) than a set of tires.

 

I am not sure that is accurate??? Driving behind so many people, at least in my area I have to determine distant, and speeds rather than use there brake lights as an indicator of what they are doing because they are always riding the brakes? LOL

 

I have a somewhat relevant question to the thread. On my 21 GT-R I am having issues with noise / shudder in the front rotors. I did not have this issue with my 19 GT which had smaller rotors than the turbo. I was surprised when the 21 started having issues in less than 10k miles. The dealer resurfaced the rotors which removed the shudder, but the brakes remained noisy with a whomp/whomp/whomp sound every time I hit the brakes. Now the shudder has returned. I am debating on asking for another resurfacing at my next service, or to bite the bullet and have the rotors +/- pads replaced. Any suggestions? I know one cause can be pad buildup on the rotors rather than warped rotors. I have tried multiple high speed stops to possibly remove buildup, but it hasn't helped.

 

The pads and the disc/rotor are no longer mated with each other. My suggestion is to get new pads and have the rotors machined off the Mazda. Then "BED" in your new pads to the freshly machined rotors.

ASE

 

I'll second that.
And also add, when you have your rotors machined or you replace them, get new pads.
I'm not certain why your dealer didn't do that.

 

Agreed, when it's under warranty as an "adjustment" I am sure the dealer sometimes takes the cheap route. Thanks for the advice. I will ask for resurfacing (if they have enough thickness), get new pads installed and see if this helps.