A couple of days ago, I bought a new batch of oil plug crush washers from Amazon. I compared them to my one remaining crush washer. Both have the same internal diameter but the new ones have a larger outer diameter and are slightly thicker. See the pictures. I used one of the new ones today when I changed my oil. The whole washer still fits under the drain plug. It doesn't stick out at all.

Does anyone see any potential issues in using the new ones?

Thanks.

 

They must fit the shoulder of the drain plug you are using.
Most Mazda drain plugs use are m14 washers.
The thickness is not as important as making sure the washer used fits the drain plug shoulder. If not, then you could if the washer does not center properly when tightening get a leak or damage the pan or drain plug .

I have gotten both the same as you from amazon...it is after all amazon. The Company same package 2 different sizes like in your picture was AOIT

 

Thanks Callisto.

" fits the drain plug shoulder. If not, then you could if the washer does not center properly when tightening get a leak or damage the pan or drain plug ."

The exact size of the new ones are : OD: 22mm; ID: 14mm; Thickness: 2mm;
The old ones have an ID of 14mm. I don't have a calipers so I estimate OD at 20mm and Thickness at 1.5mm

Since the new one is also 14mm Inner Diameter, it seemed to center fine. I would think the centering of the washer would be solely due to the inner diameter. The whole new washer fits completely under the "shoulder" of the drain plug. It didn't extend beyond the shoulder. I hope I'm explaining this ok.

Edit - I just went onto Amazon and found the exact OEM size and ordered them : OD 20mm, ID 14mm, Thickness 1.5mm.
I assume I'll be good using the OD 22mm until my next oil change.

 

 

Sorry about the picture order and the poor cropped pictures. . I borrowed a phone my battery was 1% lol..

 

What is the correct oil drain plug torque?

 

Depends on range of production years.
Best to check your specific model year and engine.
Mazda Specs - Professional Automotive Specifications | Mazda Specs

 

I have found that the torque setting chart for many oil pan is to high and is very dependent on what type of washer is being used.

My personal advice with a new washer is use your commonsense snug down and go a little tighter from there. If you used a NERW washer you should not get any leakage. But again this is what I do and never have a problem with leaks, a stuck drin plug or damage to the oil pan itself caused from frequent oil changes and the washer scrping the pan.

This is information that I personally do, and it is not what any service recommendation is that I am aware of but observation of likely servicing hundreds of pan damaged and or stuck drain plugs needing extra measures to remove them and then repair the threads in the oil pan.

Another observation and caution about oil drain plug washers. These are not high-quality manufactured washers even directly from MAZDA or any other auto manufacture. They are pressed punch out and as such have 2 sides. A flat and a slightly better finished looking side or smoother. The side I [prefer as a personal preference is to have the smoother side mated or facing the oil pan and the other rougher or what appears to be the flat side towards the drain plug.

It's almost a commonsense positioning and I won't go into the why's about this washer position, but I will say it can prevent your oil pan from getting damaged

 

I'm not really a fan of the Mazda style of crush washers. There is very little "crush" to them as compared to the Subaru style of crush washers. Those have a flat side that you put towards the drain plug and a curved side that you put towards the oil pan. You can really feel them "crush" when you tighten them down as the drain plug gets tighter. Of course I only use the Subaru style crush washers on my Subaru and I use the Mazda style crush washers on my Mazda. And I always use a new one.

I have never used a torque wrench and always go by feel. I've never had a leak nor have I ever damaged an oil pan. Usually when I unscrew the drain plug, it takes a light tap with a hammer handle on the wrench to break the seal. That's the way I have done it for over 40 years.

My worst experience my first change on an Outback I had years ago after following a free dealer oil change. The drain plug was so tight, even hitting quite hard with the hammer handle wouldn't do the trick. I had to use a long extender on the wrench and even that I had to hammer. But even worse was getting the filter off. By hand was impossible. Because of its positioning, I couldn't get a belt type filter wrench on it. My plastic end cap wrench kept slipping. So I had to buy an end cap "jaws of life" filter wrench which crushes down you rotate it. That did the trick and the filter came off fully crushed.

 

Great advice here^. More and more I am seeing changing oil as a matter of quality and workmanship. There are a lot of nuances to doing it properly. All the more reason to DIY (with care) and/or build a relationship with the right mechanic.