I got mine for $10.88/bottle and I did look around everywhere that was closest to me for the lowest price so YMMV

 

Thanks.... These days my line of performance parts are for another platform not MAZDA. Unfortunately the market is flooded with aftermarket (mostly JUNK) aftermarket parts and for me to add another line of parts is not cost effective. My marketer already ran a survey when I first contacted him about some idea's I had for Skyactiv engines like a true performance cam set.

The adapter you pictured is really not designed to be used except with a specific Transmission Service Machine. It will not carry the volume of normal operation and the use of a low volume/low pressure electric fluid pump may not exchange the fluid in such area's as the torque converter.
It really is better regarding the MAZDA automatic transmission that you should have a qualified service shop with a Transmission Service machine do a complete fluid replacement.

If you are concerned about what is going on inside the transmission you can get an oil analysis done very inexpensive through Blackstone Oil Labs.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?ses...bt245%29%29%2F

 

Do you think it is not suitable, then, to use this adapter to feed an auxiliary ATF cooler? The factory ATF heat exchanger leaves my ATF temps too high in my climate and use. I want to bring it down.

 

Yes IMHO if you remotely install away from the radiator and AC Condenser a stand alone up properly. The Best ones would be a cooler with a fan unit and thermostat control with adjustable on/off activation and a manual by-pass.

How do you know your transmission is running to high a temperature? Water coolers designed to regulate oil temperatures work to maintain the transmission temperature more evenly then conventional air only transmission cooler that have no stand alone fan. Unless you install a separate oil temperature to monitor the transmission temperature there is no real accurate way to see the fluid temperature.All you can do is assume they are at least the same as the water/coolant temperature which you can retrieve this information diagnostic connector under the dash. You may have noticed that is what I did with my Mazda 3 was to install a temperature gauge. In Ca and where I live we get 110F+ degree days during the Summer but yet I have watched and my transmission temperature never gets above the control water temperature depending on which thermostat I run. If it is the OEM then 220f is the maximum temperature both water and transmission even in stop and go traffic.

DIY flushes with a transmission type like the MAZDA you will waste more clean new fluid before you are successful at exchanging old fluid for new. This is why I keep saying to let a shop with a transmission service machine perform the service or just simply do a DIY pan fluid and filter replacement and have your fluid sample analysis at least once at the 50k-100k miles.

see post # 7 ,8 & 9
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...like-do-44018/

 

Here is my last Transmission oil analysis report.


The water was from the tube I cleaned and did not dry out completely when I pulled the sample from the pan at the dip stick port. LOL
This shows how accurate the testing is!

 

I watch coolant and ATF temps with my ScanGauge. ATF temps typically run 10-15F higher than engine coolant here in southern AZ when I’m just driving down the highway or freeway. I don’t claim that 205F is ‘too hot’ for the ATF, but it’s hotter than I think healthy for some of the polymer parts over the long term.

Ideally, I would like to find an adapter that would still allow the ATF to run through the oil-to-water heat exchanger, but then run forward to an external oil-to-air cooler, and then back into the tranny. That would be ideal for me.

BTW, I drive a 6, but of course the powertrain is very nearly identical.

 

Thanks for posting the ATF UOA!

 

I thought someone would like it!

The scan tool or a Diagnostic Tool is a good way to watch specific PIDs. I am surprised however that your Transmission temperatures are running hotter then coolant. As I said our hot days are very similar to yours and my transmission never gets above the water temperatures even on hot days and spirited driving. I have never considered the location of the factory transmission temperature sensor on the Mazda because the only time I can read that PID is with my Snap-on diagnostic tool. That PID is not available to read with my UG. So you gave me something to investigate!

 

Update (9/19):
So I decided to start part (1/3) of the drain and fill process for the CX-5 and upon draining the transmission fluid out, the color was pitch black jesus. Also, when I measured the amount of fluid in my vehicle after 10-15 minutes, there was about 3.7 - 3.8 quarts in total. In addition, when I tried to put the exact/similar amount back into the ATF, my dipstick reading was well beyond the high point. I did start my car up and used the OBD II to read the ATF (Temp 1) sensor and waited until 122f to take another dipstick reading and it still read beyond the fill line. For tomorrow, I'm planning to siphon the rest of the extra fluid out to a tolerable level and then doing measuring again at 122f.

I realized I made a few mistakes since it was kind of a rush job (first attempt at doing a tranny drain/fill):

1. Didn't measure the ATF dipstick on a level surface (car was still jacked in the air)
2. Poured about 3.6 - 3.7 quarts back in without hesitating and then even after putting the car down at a level surface and starting the car back up, it still read beyond the low/high line.

Overall, it's not a very hard process and it's very similar to an engine oil change except for the fact that you have to be a little more careful and there are more things to remove such:

1. Underbody cover held by (8) 10 mm screws and (6) plastic rivets that requires a screw driver or prying tool
2. Engine filter housing held by (2) 10 mm bolts
3. Dipstick bolt held on by (1) 10 mm bolt
4. Engine Air Filter Housing Hose held on by (1) Philips/10 mm
5. Engine Air Filter Housing sensor

Pictures below if it helps anyone:

1. Drain using a 12 qt container



Engine Air Filter Housing:


Transmission dipstick:
After removing the bolt and the dipstick from the ATF, I realized there was a lot of dirt caked between the dipstick and the mounting surface itself. I was read about this before in other posts but there was definitely dirt underneath the dipstick contact surface as well.




Dipstick from factory fill:


Dipstick after pouring 3.7 - 3.8 qts back


ATF Drain Bolt:
Ran into some issues removing the washer since it was pretty much stuck to the bolt and had to use a pick to pry it off.


Engine Air Filter/Housing Removed


Bottom of air filter housing:
I definitely noticed the bolts that appear to be holding the ECU/ECU mount in place appear to show signs of rust


Entire engine filter housing assembly removed.


Transmission Pan/Bolts
So it appears that my transmission pan and the bolts are starting to form rust. I don't know how long it would take before the whole thing starts to crack and leak but I'm guessing I'll need a new pan by 100,000 miles or my next drain/fill.


I'll post a revised write up during the 2nd/3rd time I perform this.

 

Update (9/19):
So I decided to start part (1/3) of the drain and fill process for the CX-5 and upon draining the transmission fluid out, the color was pitch black jesus. Also, when I measured the amount of fluid in my vehicle after 10-15 minutes, there was about 3.7 - 3.8 quarts in total. In addition, when I tried to put the exact/similar amount back into the ATF, my dipstick reading was well beyond the high point. I did start my car up and used the OBD II to read the ATF (Temp 1) sensor and waited until 122f to take another dipstick reading and it still read beyond the fill line. For tomorrow, I'm planning to siphon the rest of the extra fluid out to a tolerable level and then doing measuring again at 122f.

I realized I made a few mistakes since it was kind of a rush job (first attempt at doing a tranny drain/fill):

1. Didn't measure the ATF dipstick on a level surface (car was still jacked in the air)
2. Poured about 3.6 - 3.7 quarts back in without hesitating and then even after putting the car down at a level surface and starting the car back up, it still read beyond the low/high line.

Overall, it's not a very hard process and it's very similar to an engine oil change except for the fact that you have to be a little more careful and there are more things to remove such:

1. Underbody cover held by (8) 10 mm screws and (6) plastic rivets that requires a screw driver or prying tool
2. Engine filter housing held by (2) 10 mm bolts
3. Dipstick bolt held on by (1) 10 mm bolt
4. Engine Air Filter Housing Hose held on by (1) Philips/10 mm
5. Engine Air Filter Housing sensor

Pictures below if it helps anyone:

1. Drain using a 12 qt container



Engine Air Filter Housing:

Transmission dipstick:
After removing the bolt and the dipstick from the ATF, I realized there was a lot of dirt caked between the dipstick and the mounting surface itself. I was read about this before in other posts but there was definitely dirt underneath the dipstick contact surface as well.




Dipstick from factory fill:


Dipstick after pouring 3.7 - 3.8 qts back


ATF Drain Bolt:
Ran into some issues removing the washer since it was pretty much stuck to the bolt and had to use a pick to pry it off.


Engine Air Filter/Housing Removed


Bottom of air filter housing:
I definitely noticed the bolts that appear to be holding the ECU/ECU mount in place appear to show signs of rust