I made some minor mods on my 2018 CX-5 Sport (non-turbo); installed a Cold Air Intake and an Back Exhaust from CorkSport and it did such a nice upgrade and nice roaring sound, that I was wondering if there was anything else I could do. So after watching some videos from Mazda 3’s improvements from flashing the ECU with VersaTuner, I decided to test it out. VersaTuner does have some tunes, but I don’t really feel any difference. Does anyone know of any tunes pre-done for Versatune that I could try out? The only ones I’ve found are for Mazdaspeed’s, Miata’s and RX’s.

 

They work but are very minor .
You should have distinctly noticed so time to start over . It is more likely the files did not up load in your ECU?
one easy way to tell is check your timing before and after. Naturally a few second data long before and after would also help.
They are not flashes …. Not the best terminology.
I suggest it is time to get out of the pre programmed ECU calibrations and get a real calibration based on your personal Mazda. The Versa Tuning is the way to go!

The upgrades you installed or had installed are for looks and sound personal preference neither improve the engines power levels.
Just an fyi, your factory air intake actually controls the IATs better than the CAI .
If you find the IAT PID in the ECU you can monitor it with and without the CAI. Don’t be surprised if the CAI IATs run sever degree hotter and are slower the return to ambient at highway speeds.
But hey they look and sound good


Last advise it is not EVER a good idea to use someone’s tuning file they calibrated for their vehicle.

 

I second what Cali says. I just got through reading an engineering study on air intakes and cat back exhaust and the futility of them for anything but increased DB levels.
Anything you can "legally" do with them to your vehicle nets you a much thinner wallet and no real measurable gain.
NOX works but is illegal to run on the road in most states. And removing the cat is the only way to possibly get real HP gains in your exhaust and it is a serious crime in all states.
In many cases air intake and exhaust changes can actually decrease the performance.
As not all ECU can handle those changes without additional outside programming.
Only ECU tuning will increase actual performance and even that can only be accomplished mapping your specific vehicle and including your driving habits.
I would also point out that "tampering" with your road vehicles ECU is technically illegal and voids your warranty.
While you are not likely to get caught" you may not pass emissions control standards in some states.
Buyers are better off putting all that performance money in an N/A CX-5 towards a turbo CX-5 version if they wanted the HP.
But then others are simply satisfied with sound and thinking they are faster...
Too each their own.

 

Lobstah brings up a few good thoughts that are often misconception on basically all platform types of forum and media (Facebook) of groups.

Most ALL Catalytic converters on production vehicles now are high flow. Unlike their predecessors in the 90's and older.
Larger diameter exhaust parts unless you are running in the upper RPM range will actually reduce the net power output. Simply put they run to cool in normal daily drivers. See and understand thermodynamics and exhaust flow principles.
So called CAI do not fundamentally work and because they raise many operations temperature's the ECU will adjust, and increase fueling and change timing/ This by itself will reduce the totally power output if the ECU is not calibrated for those parts (CAI) installed.
Not sure I am in total agreement with the CAT removal and power, but I will tell you if you remove the CAT and get caught on any Federal lands or reservation it is a felony, they WILL impound your vehicle on the spot.
Nitrous gets complicated now because all the STONERS" that abused it. It's illegal in some states but whip cream and other nitrous propellants you buy at the grocery store isn't. Also, the way the laws are worded are confusing to the point that law Enforcement trying to properly cite a person for have Nitrous installed properly on their engine and car generally can beat that ticket in traffic court.
I live in California and even this state has weirdly written laws pertaining to N20.
EFI/ECU Performance calibrating is often so misunderstood. For general purposes calibrating a ECU simply means adjusting the operations controlled by the ECU from sensor input to better produce power or emission output of the engine depending on which you are trying to achieve. naturally can't say as I ever had a customer (my own business not the service shop I work in) ask that I calibrate their ECU for lower exhaust emissions? lol
Also a misconception about auto manufactures warranty. The ECU calibration program anyone uses should be able to allow the end user to make a back complete ECU program file. This allows for the return to original OEM ECU operations and all the ECU counters from that point at which the back was made. So NO if done correctly none would ever know you ever uploaded a Performance Calibration program.
I should state at this point that another often confusion about ECU Calibration, while some small changes can be made to the OEM Calibration the main reason for designing specifically tailored ECU calibration is to tie all the bolt opn power together to be the most efficient. Example if I change a stock head (EFI NA none boosted 4-cylinder automotive applications) to a ported head with cam(s) the average gain is 15-25HP gain. That same engine if I calibrate the ECU for the various changes that performance head made the end calibration can achieve 40-60+ HP gains. But to be clear this takes patients and about 12-14 hours studying DYN runs that also DATA logged the ECU to know where to make changes and hen retest. See my signature.
The trick is to find a ECI/EFI Performance calibrator that has years of hands-on experience or one that attended an actual school for the training and certification of an EFI/ECU Performance Calibrator. Most basic packages with 2-6 included ECU calibration changes based on Data Logging only (not DUYNO and Data Logging) run starting $500. And you need to purchase the ECU access programing and connectors to the ECU OBDII. Like Versa Tuner.
I should state I do not offer ECU/EFI Calibrating currently for Versa Tuner software. I am already very full of the other platform I do.
Another thought from many is that a ECU calibration in your ECU during a Emission test will fail you. The first thing is there is not one state with their states required emission testing equipment can detect any ECY was calibrated. As for the tail pipe emission if they were measured and the calibration chosen being used in the ECU you emission should change very little. And if it were a custom ECU Calibration your emission should actually show improvements from your last emission testing. Here again I am living in Ca we have very stick emission testing (was a certified state tester until this year) so with my Mazda I have what I call a DIRTY TEST file. My emission out my tail pipe are to low that they exceed the low limits that Mazda has. In other words, my engine runs cleaner than California vehicle emission standards for my year and model MAZDA. So that I don't raise a RED flag on an emission test I upload my DIRTY FILE, and it places the reporting ECU information as well the actual tailpipe emission right about the middle of the emission output for my MAZDA.


Now this next statement please no one take offence because it is more poking fun at then anything else...

I would not buy a MAZDA with a Turbocharged engine. At least none of the production models. For one thing that Turbocharger in my circles of performance people call it a baby Turbo. The actual size of the Turbin and compressor wheels are so small it is a wonder they make much real boost at all. The housing and other operating parts make them look bigger but the actual booting parts are so fricken tiny. LOL I don't think you could actually look yourself in the mirror if anyone offered a BWD for one. lol

but to end this as my coffee is getting cold i will quote Labstah...

to each thier own

 

Callisto and Lobstah, much thanks for your vast explanation. However, I must say that my ride has definitely improved a lot, and not just looks and sound. See, I used to race a RX7 in my youth, and did an immense of mods where I got a lot of power out that little 12A and put many to shame at the racetrack. I realize that the CX5 is not a race car, but since I really like this daily driving car, I felt the desire in giving it a little upgrade as I enjoy making mods and see what works and what doesn’t. From the things I’ve done not all worked, but as far as the CorkSports intake and exhaust, those really gave it a punch improving an extra 27 HP; and now after tuning the ECU with the 93 octane crack & pop from VersaTune I now gained an extra 9 HP, totaling 223 HP from 187, therefor I can say by living proof that it is more than just looks and sound.
Another little mod that does work and is very cheap, is preparing a 10 gauge electric wire cable, and connect it to the top right bolt from the throttle body to negative battery terminal. This will not give it any extra power, but it will give a faster throttle response at the gas pedal; increasing the response and acceleration.
Zoom-Zoom 🏁

 

 

A suggestion, the extra ground at the T/B should not have any effect on your throttle response timing or % vs pedal depression but you can change this using your Versa Tune program software which will give you a faster throttle with less foot control. But I caution it will wear on you and after the fast throttle feeing novelty wears off you will likely return to or adjust it with less % to foot movement. Your throttle body is internally ground via the connector. There is some advantage to add a few more ground in other areas. But even those additional grounds are more for supporting high end custom stereo equipment. I do run additional positive cables to the starter .

I am also curious you power results were they estimated based on the parts you installed or did you DYNO your Mazda ?

keep up the great work👍

 

I'm curious as well.
Do you have actual dyno runs for your CX-5 that show this increased HP?

 

I third what others have said. I seriously doubt what you did added that much power. A dyno run before and after would prove/disprove it.

 

I personally have never asked for on any forum the actual sheets nor have I ever posted any ever, but I am curious because the total seems to be the added possible theorized (by them) retailers place on power increases for each part.
The Versa Tune (or other platform calibration software) itself can if done correctly increase slightly with their preprogramed files based on more or less increasing values from the OE programing that are always emission concern first, then MPG standards and power output balanced to achieve the first 2 items last.
The way to achieve the best power is add the parts and then get a custom calibration to tie all the parts together. This requires minimum Data logging specific targeted RPM ranges and someone that understands what they are reading, and the experience know what calibration areas to adjust.
Then we have the power level reporting some state their engine develops. The ways are generally from a physical DYNO result in which it be in WHP or if it were with an accelerometer then it would also be in WHP but real-world operational measurements or values which IMHO is the best way to personally know your power out-put. Unfortunately, this results number in WHP is very seldom ever posted anywhere because it is lower than a DYNO and WHP reported. If it is calculated base in information of claimed levels of power, you could gain then there would be number only the advantage always is to get a base line of either using an accelerometer or a chassis Dyno. However, the problem with these is that whoever does them, the accelerometer and the DYNO all effected possibly outcome factors must be logged and accounted for. In other words, if you are using an accelerometer then you should find an unobstructed and flat parking lot. The day you do it measurements of ambient air, tire, tarmac and precise engine and transmission temperatures logged. On a DYNO the Dyno operator should set up all the baseline information the same as with an accelerometer and must not use a fan (unless lower heat soak between runs to match the established deltas) and in addition must be careful to either adjust for changes in baseline information between Dyno runs to duplicate as close to the baseline run as possible. Then if multiple runs are done, they are generally average them out before SAE smoothing and to then choose the 2 closet runs for the results. But here again the owner generally looks at all the results and wants to post the highest instead. (human nature).
A baseline Duno as well accelerometer allows for comparison results if changes are made in any aspect of the vehicle that could change the power output.
The last thing to mention is that the predominant Chassis DYNO shops tend to what we call "steeping on the scale" so to say to make their customers happy. That means that they tend to set up the vehcle in the best operation environment possible so that the end result tendency to be higher than realistically in the real-world operation achievable. The indication can be read or seen in the DYNO reports that are always ASE Smoothed or adjusted to look nice and linear, and only showing very few operations information like a few temperatures normally the ambient only.