P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor issue
Junior Member
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 1
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From: victoria
Code P0192
Thanks to everyone here that shared their info. I had the same issue with my 2015 CX-5 2.5L with 60K miles. Loss of power, engine light on. Luckily I was close to home and it ran well enough to take side streets for a couple of miles but it would not restart the next day when cold. I'm an amateur mechanic, so I do my own repairs. I found code P0192 but my basic fuel pressure gauge will not work on this car. I figured that I could spend hundreds of dollars on the right testing equipment, I could have it towed to a good shop and spend much more, or I could spend less on replacing both pumps if it came to that. Luckily it didn't.
I disconnected the fuel line going to the high pressure pump and held it over a catch pan while trying to start the engine, fuel flowed out in what looked like normal pressure. This means that the in tank pump is working, but I can't prove that it's working 100%. Usually electric pumps either work or not. I removed the high pressure pump from the engine, nothing obviously wrong. I ordered a new high pressure pump on line, installed it(pretty easy to do) and it worked. Starts and runs like it should. Cleared the code, all good. I spent $540 on a SMP #GDP510 pump which looks identical to the OEM pump and is made in Thailand, not China. I found many on eBay for under $100 but I did not trust them. I am surprised that the engine could run on the pressure from the electric pump. Maybe the old high pressure pump was doing something but not enough.
I disconnected the fuel line going to the high pressure pump and held it over a catch pan while trying to start the engine, fuel flowed out in what looked like normal pressure. This means that the in tank pump is working, but I can't prove that it's working 100%. Usually electric pumps either work or not. I removed the high pressure pump from the engine, nothing obviously wrong. I ordered a new high pressure pump on line, installed it(pretty easy to do) and it worked. Starts and runs like it should. Cleared the code, all good. I spent $540 on a SMP #GDP510 pump which looks identical to the OEM pump and is made in Thailand, not China. I found many on eBay for under $100 but I did not trust them. I am surprised that the engine could run on the pressure from the electric pump. Maybe the old high pressure pump was doing something but not enough.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Prescott AZ
Hi pritam,
my 2 cents....it's hard to properly diagnose it without the more expensive code "analyzer" that displays the tank's low pressure fuel pump reading and also the hi-pressure reading of the pump located on top of the engine.
Roll the dice and maybe the hi-pressure pump?
my 2 cents....it's hard to properly diagnose it without the more expensive code "analyzer" that displays the tank's low pressure fuel pump reading and also the hi-pressure reading of the pump located on top of the engine.
Roll the dice and maybe the hi-pressure pump?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
pritman,
I agree with ZUK. I took a gamble with replacing the high pressure pump since I was able to replace the pump for less than what the proper testing equipment costs. I doubt that the sensor is the problem but it would be nice if someone offered a replacement sensor rather than the entire fuel rail. The only recommendation I have is to remove the fuel line where it goes into the high pressure pump, put the end of the line into something that can catch fuel, and crank the engine over for a couple of seconds. If fuel sprays out of the line, then the in tank pump is doing something. No way to know if it's full pressure without gauges that will connect to the line. I could not find any low cost fuel pressure gauges that would connect. In my case, since the in tank pump was pumping fuel, I went with the assumption that the problem was with the high pressure pump and this was correct.
My CX-5 had different symptoms from yours. When the problem started, I was able to drive it home. The engine was already warm. The next day, the engine would not start. Cold engines need more fuel. I have read on-line that an engine may be able to run on just the high pressure pump, so maybe your issue is from the in-tank pump. I never found much about the sensor being a problem. Aftermarket in-tank pumps are cheap on eBay and easy to replace. The fuel filter is also in the pump. It might be worth a try just for the new filter.
I agree with ZUK. I took a gamble with replacing the high pressure pump since I was able to replace the pump for less than what the proper testing equipment costs. I doubt that the sensor is the problem but it would be nice if someone offered a replacement sensor rather than the entire fuel rail. The only recommendation I have is to remove the fuel line where it goes into the high pressure pump, put the end of the line into something that can catch fuel, and crank the engine over for a couple of seconds. If fuel sprays out of the line, then the in tank pump is doing something. No way to know if it's full pressure without gauges that will connect to the line. I could not find any low cost fuel pressure gauges that would connect. In my case, since the in tank pump was pumping fuel, I went with the assumption that the problem was with the high pressure pump and this was correct.
My CX-5 had different symptoms from yours. When the problem started, I was able to drive it home. The engine was already warm. The next day, the engine would not start. Cold engines need more fuel. I have read on-line that an engine may be able to run on just the high pressure pump, so maybe your issue is from the in-tank pump. I never found much about the sensor being a problem. Aftermarket in-tank pumps are cheap on eBay and easy to replace. The fuel filter is also in the pump. It might be worth a try just for the new filter.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Washington
P0192 error
I'm relieved to hopefully have figured out what's going on with my 2017 Mazda CX-5. Twice now, it's stalled on the highway with a check engine light popping up--both times was driving around 60-70mph for a couple of hours and had about a quarter tank of gas left. The first time it happened, the car wouldn't start again and I had to get it towed, but the shop couldn't find anything wrong and the car started up the next day. The second time, the car did start again after 20 minutes after stalling out, and I got it to a dealership in time for them to find the P0192 code. The regular code reader didn't find anything initially--they had to get a tech to plug their laptop into my car and that's what found the P0192. Then they sent me on my way, because the check engine light had gone off and they said the car was "drivable" again.
After reading here and many other places online, it really sounds like the Denso low-pressure fuel pump is to blame, that's the source of the recall for 2018 and 2019 Mazda CX-5s experiencing this same issue (https://www.consumerreports.org/cars...mp-a6120295804).
If the 2017 model also uses that fuel pump, why isn't it included in the recall? For anyone who experienced this car behavior and got the P0192 code and had the fuel pump replaced, did that completely solve the issue? I'll pay for the replacement for my peace of mind (and to avoid a horrifying collision on the freeway), but if this is due to a faulty part, it really should be covered by the recall. Shame on you, Mazda. Is there anywhere we can write them, other than filing a complaint on the NHTSA site (https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index)?
After reading here and many other places online, it really sounds like the Denso low-pressure fuel pump is to blame, that's the source of the recall for 2018 and 2019 Mazda CX-5s experiencing this same issue (https://www.consumerreports.org/cars...mp-a6120295804).
If the 2017 model also uses that fuel pump, why isn't it included in the recall? For anyone who experienced this car behavior and got the P0192 code and had the fuel pump replaced, did that completely solve the issue? I'll pay for the replacement for my peace of mind (and to avoid a horrifying collision on the freeway), but if this is due to a faulty part, it really should be covered by the recall. Shame on you, Mazda. Is there anywhere we can write them, other than filing a complaint on the NHTSA site (https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index)?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2025
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Hello Dustin1,
We have a 2016 CX3 Sport with the 2.0 which has the same issue. At highway speeds, each time, complete shutdown! Also have noticed a surge of sorts when backing the cold car out of the garage, putting in drive and touching the accelerator it jumps. This was also reported to the dealer, but its like a pressure build up in the tranny of my old Ford truck...leaps forward.
Car was brought to the dealer each time with no luck in replicating the issue at 55K, 114K, and most recently at 132K. First time, it stalled at 65mph (Winter day -2deg. F) and was able to get to the shoulder safely. Left the car off for 5mins. looking around the engine, 1/4 tank of gas (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away). It cranked, popped, then started again and got it to the station - did not shut off and still had the Check Engine light. Read the P0192 with my ODBII reader at home and brought to the original dealer the next morning with the reader hooked up and cycling the error on the 40mile trip. Dealer read the code, checked pressures, nothing! Code reset and went home.
2nd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Fall day 52deg. F) and again let it sit. Banged under the gas tank which just got a Low Fuel light (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away)...pattern here? This time, cranking and cranking no luck called for tow. Brought to another dealer where they held the car for 3 days and repeatedly tested for the P0192 to repeat thinking low gas might be the issue, but no luck.
3rd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Spring evening 57deg. F) and again let it sit for 20mins. Banged under the gas tank which had more than 1/4 tank. Tried several times cranked only. Didn't have my reader, but disconnected the NEG and reset the code still would not start. Left overnight for 6 hours and tried the next day and only cranked. Splashed maybe 1/2 gal. of gas in the tank and it cranked over after several attempts. Ran very sluggish for 5 min. trip to the gas station. The tank is 11 or 12 gals., only 7 gals. to fill it up. I did not take to the dealer, but did report it to the original dealer after resetting the code and have run a couple thousand more miles (long commute to work). It's behaving OK and keeping the tank above 1/4 to 3/8...so far, so good.
Not a Gas or Weather issue in my opinion. I'm hesitant about throwing an FPS at it if it goes deeper, but I seriously doubt its fuel pump related anymore. It has to be in the rail as you noted, but they have no other history of this reported. The CX3 is mfg. in Japan I believe. Not sure what network dealers reach through, but this is a problem. It sounds like some Mazda3's and 6's have seen this code as well.
Still in the dark, not giving up! Anyone else seeing this issue.
Good luck!
We have a 2016 CX3 Sport with the 2.0 which has the same issue. At highway speeds, each time, complete shutdown! Also have noticed a surge of sorts when backing the cold car out of the garage, putting in drive and touching the accelerator it jumps. This was also reported to the dealer, but its like a pressure build up in the tranny of my old Ford truck...leaps forward.
Car was brought to the dealer each time with no luck in replicating the issue at 55K, 114K, and most recently at 132K. First time, it stalled at 65mph (Winter day -2deg. F) and was able to get to the shoulder safely. Left the car off for 5mins. looking around the engine, 1/4 tank of gas (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away). It cranked, popped, then started again and got it to the station - did not shut off and still had the Check Engine light. Read the P0192 with my ODBII reader at home and brought to the original dealer the next morning with the reader hooked up and cycling the error on the 40mile trip. Dealer read the code, checked pressures, nothing! Code reset and went home.
2nd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Fall day 52deg. F) and again let it sit. Banged under the gas tank which just got a Low Fuel light (on the way to the gas station 1/4 mile away)...pattern here? This time, cranking and cranking no luck called for tow. Brought to another dealer where they held the car for 3 days and repeatedly tested for the P0192 to repeat thinking low gas might be the issue, but no luck.
3rd time, again highway speeds - Check Engine - 65mph stalled (Spring evening 57deg. F) and again let it sit for 20mins. Banged under the gas tank which had more than 1/4 tank. Tried several times cranked only. Didn't have my reader, but disconnected the NEG and reset the code still would not start. Left overnight for 6 hours and tried the next day and only cranked. Splashed maybe 1/2 gal. of gas in the tank and it cranked over after several attempts. Ran very sluggish for 5 min. trip to the gas station. The tank is 11 or 12 gals., only 7 gals. to fill it up. I did not take to the dealer, but did report it to the original dealer after resetting the code and have run a couple thousand more miles (long commute to work). It's behaving OK and keeping the tank above 1/4 to 3/8...so far, so good.
Not a Gas or Weather issue in my opinion. I'm hesitant about throwing an FPS at it if it goes deeper, but I seriously doubt its fuel pump related anymore. It has to be in the rail as you noted, but they have no other history of this reported. The CX3 is mfg. in Japan I believe. Not sure what network dealers reach through, but this is a problem. It sounds like some Mazda3's and 6's have seen this code as well.
Still in the dark, not giving up! Anyone else seeing this issue.
Good luck!
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Washington
An update: I brought my 2017 CX-5 to a Mazda Dealership and they inspected the car and confirmed the P0192 code was because of an issue with my high-pressure fuel pump. So, I replaced it (to the tune of $2K UGH), and my car hasn't had an issue since then. My car does feel a little "sticker" and less smooth when I accelerate now, not sure it that's related to the fuel-pump replacement, but, I haven't had my car randomly shut down on the highway since then, so I suppose the cost is worth the relief. I was pretty upset that my car had less than 30K miles on it and needed to have this part replaced. I have a suspicion that the original part was faulty, similar to the recall for the low-pressure fuel pump I linked to in my original post (https://www.consumerreports.org/cars...mp-a6120295804), but Mazda was not willing to take any responsibility for it needing to be replaced so early in the car's lifespan. Lets hope if the new high-pressure fuel pump truly solved the issue, that it lasts for a while.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,334
Likes: 198
From: Northern California
An update: I brought my 2017 CX-5 to a Mazda Dealership and they inspected the car and confirmed the P0192 code was because of an issue with my high-pressure fuel pump. So, I replaced it (to the tune of $2K UGH), and my car hasn't had an issue since then. My car does feel a little "sticker" and less smooth when I accelerate now, not sure it that's related to the fuel-pump replacement, but, I haven't had my car randomly shut down on the highway since then, so I suppose the cost is worth the relief. I was pretty upset that my car had less than 30K miles on it and needed to have this part replaced. I have a suspicion that the original part was faulty, similar to the recall for the low-pressure fuel pump I linked to in my original post (https://www.consumerreports.org/cars...mp-a6120295804), but Mazda was not willing to take any responsibility for it needing to be replaced so early in the car's lifespan. Lets hope if the new high-pressure fuel pump truly solved the issue, that it lasts for a while.
Naturally you can roll the dice and try a small claims suit but you would need to gather many of the things I mention to help you win a settlement. And if you do go that route I would ask for arbitration before stepping into the actually hearing case presented in the courtroom. You may get a small portion settled just so the dealership will not have a record of a suit on file?
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