i have a 88 b2600 4x4 and i'm getting ready to order a weber. I keep debating on getting a 32/36 or a 38 with it being a 4x4. Also i'm now gutting all the emissions and AC so i can see the engine and was wondering if the two vaccum diaframs mounted on the intake right below the carb are still needed and what they are and also that huge pump with the two big lines coming out the bottom on the pass. fenderwell was needed and what it was. I"m Still a newbe to mazdas and any knowledge would be appreciated thanks

 

Well, the 32/36 would probably be easier to install and certainly better for fuel mileage if you plan to use this as a DD, but if it"s a 38 you want, I"m your man.
I just happen to have one that"s been sitting in my shop for some time now. It was used for a very short time(and supposedly jetted for also) a 2.0L BMW 2002 some years back for a shop I once worked at, but we could not get it jetted correctly for the car and the owner had us give up. It is a 38DGAS (synchronus, double-dumper) w/electric choke, converted from water. Hence the A instead of an E. If you are interested, send me a PM and make me an offer.
When I read your post I checked it out.It's still in the original, though rough lookingbox (that someone marked as a 34/34) w/new gaskets in plastic. The body is nearly as perfect as new, though there is blow-back on one choke plate where the 2002 backfired on it. It also comes with an OEM air filter adapter plate. I wouldhave to take pics and post though.

 

Yup!That"s it, only a bit dirtier!!

 

thanks for the info. but i'll prob. just go with the 32/36. I"ve had alot of problems with it and i just want it on the road as easily as possible.
Would you or anyone else know what all i can gut. There is two vacumm diaframs? mounted on the intake's side right under the carb can those go and make a block off plate and also the huge thing on the pass. fenderwell. What is that and is it needed.

 

I"m not that familiar with the engine compartment, but if you posted pictures perhaps I or someone else might be able to identify what it is you want to try and get rid of. I suspect one of those is possibly the EGR valve, but am not really sure.
Just off-hand though, I would guess the canister you refer to on the firewall is the fuel evaporative canister. If so, do not get rid of that one. You have a closed fuel system.That canister has a charcoal filter in it. Fuel vapors enter it, are re-condensed and returned to the fuel tank. Without it, you will be venting to the atmosphere and have a constant raw fuel smell in the cab. Very dangerous.

 

Thanks for the info. The diaframs on the intake is the egr and i'm thinking of making a block off plate. and the other thing i was talking about was this huge metal thing that had two 1" lines going to the exhuast directly after the header. I still don't know what it did but its been elimated. ha
Also, I think i'm going to go ahead with the weber38 setup. Let me know what you would like for yours i'm going to go see if i can get the other brackets and conversion plates seperate. (sry i don't know how to send a pm on this site)

 

The pipes going to the exhaust are the AIR system, it's purpose is to get more oxygen into the exhaust to help the cats work. Evap canisters are not designed to store liquid fuel, they are mirely meant to temporarily store vapors from the fuel tank and the carb. When you start the engine the purge control valve opens allowing engine vacuum to suck the fuel vapors out and get burned. Without the purge control valve fuel will eventually start to condense and it will get satureted. Once this happens the fuel vapors will build up pressure and cause an irratic idle as it starts to pressurize the float bowl. If you don't keep the entire Evap system intact it is useless, cars where ran for years without any type of evap system until emission laws came into effect, it is only there to help prevent fuel vapors escaping to the atmosphere.