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Order up... Another B-2000 FE escapade.
At first, I was thinking... Why? 🤬
Looking at "Papaw's truck." Why did he like it so dang much? An '86 B2000 SE-5 *takes breath* standard cab and standard transmission, FE 2.0 8v SOHC, gray and white decals with 317,xxx miles and counting by the 1,000's. Two wheel drive tire slicking stock pickup truck. I plan to share a few simple real world repairs to the truck. Maybe someone else can help me with my on-going engine parts interchange research. This truck is younger than me and runs better too, but now we both leak about the same. Time for change and every man knows... you can't change yourself, so you change your pickup truck. This is my second truck, my first pull-up truck was a yota... But this is my big boy truck. Next week we are swapping out the 4 speed in a 5 speed case for a brand new to me, used, rusty looking 5 speed transmission that is exactly the same but includes the advertised (and infamous) second gear! Yeah! Hopefully. Yeah, righteous! *crickets* And a clutch kit, flywheel, slave cylinder, master cylinder, lines, and whatever else is hard to get at and rusty. Aside from this, I am also researching standard replacement mazda parts interchange with my FE 2.0 sohc engine for a compression bump and powerband skew. Goals are stock rated horsepower and advertised torque metric values entered here. YEAH! SWEET, DUDE! *crickets* Truck has a budget, but is not currently working so let's keep the blowers in the dash and the turbos in the hairdryers. Stop in from time to time to see the universe punish me throughout this process. Any input is welcome, even if you don't believe me. Even I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken. -Mechanically Minded |
The truck slowly grew on me, like housing inflation.
I swapped the factory wheels out for 14" chrome '90s model Nissan hardbody wheels. Static dropped it about 3 inches with blocks in the rear and clocked torsion bars up front. New steering components, tie rods, balljoints, idler arm, front and rear shocks. It also got a 32/36 DGV copy carb and redline adapter, regulator and lines. Header, glass pack, spark plugs, pcv valve. Rebuilt front brake calipers, turned rotors, re-packed wheel bearings, all new rear brakes and rubber lines. Runs good and leaks oil. I am sure I left a lot out but that's off the top of my head. Still, missing second gear, slipping clutch, loose leaf springs and bad bushings in the front control arms. Work is never done. Engine rebuild is in the near future too. You will witness the remaining work, here. By this point... I am starting to understand why Papaw liked it so much. I will continue... |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.maz...3daafb594a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.maz...cc43ee69c5.jpg Here is 2 pics of the carb set-up. Been running for about a year now. More to come... |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.maz...e6642bc77c.jpg
Remember... this is a high mileage, former scrap hauler. A real world truck. This one is practical, but desired to be 100% functional or improved upon. Ugly and perfect. |
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That is what we are working with...
So, through lots of research and browsing pistons by size. I came full circle and rediscovered that there is an F8-E piston. It is offered in 86mm standard size and identical to to the FE with the exception of... (drumroll) it is a flat top design and has reliefs for a 12v head. Great! Now to move that powerband up the rpm range. I will be re-using the original valves or possibly standard replacements. I have heard rumors that the Yale or other forklift FE applications may be stainless valves for the industrial requirements. But I cannot confirm as sales listings do not specify material type. I am currently browsing valve springs by specification and not doing very well at it. If anyone knows a standard replacement spring to look into, please just mention it. If all else fails I can shim standard replacements, but not my favorite choice. A camshaft is inevitable but will be ignored until I have the other details worked out. I have plenty of intake for a camshaft upgrade. The carb could use a bump in secondary jets, but again... after the rest is worked out and installed. Anybody know of some similar valve springs with a higher pressure? Or even "heard" of some type? |
Vale springs are easy.. .but you need to go to the suppliers or manufacture of engine components with your specifications. There is always substitution for any OEM valve spring.
If you don't know then contact a good engine machine shop they should have a valve spring scale and can measure your springs and even likely sell you a substitute that will work just fine. a Why all the funky picture editing?? no one cares where you live? And seriously doubt you will get a stalker? LOL |
The pictures were edited about a year and a half ago. That's the way they are when I dig them up, again. It takes 5 seconds to do it in the gallery and I never think about it again. Most of that stuff is the neighbor's. I do not want any of the 12 families around me to possibly be offended by my posting of their property. I am not offended. I couldn't care less except for inside the house. That is mine and that is all.
We ARE in N.C. after all... and as such, a stalker is laughable. Anybody wanna see a dc-9? |
You are like me... port and polish everything. Just curious on the primary runner of the intake why you choose not to do a smoother finish in that area to reduce turbulence?
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Fuel sticks to smooth surfaces. These cheap carbs are not the best at atomization, anyway.
I think somewhere around 80 grit is about right for the intake tract. It allows it to peel off in the turbulence. Mine is grinding stone rough. Laziness I suppose... Yes, I port match everything. I do not see a reason not to. It is near free. Makes the casting better. And might make it a little more efficient. If you do this too, nice to meet you! |
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