Idle issues on slope
Hi it’s been a while. My stepson is now the owner of my 90 B2200. He’s taking good care of it. If you remember I had rebuilt the engine and did a Weber 32/36 DGEV swap. It’s been serving well and he’s put 40k miles on it so far.
More recently there’s been an idle issue. When warm and idling on an up hill, it starts stumbling and will stall if you don’t open the throttle to keep it alive. The tell tale black smoke of rich mixture is evident during this.
On a down hill on level orientation it’s smooth and idles without stumbling or stalling.
I’m thinking we need to adjust the float to lower the fuel level in the bowl just a tad.
What say you? Any other suggestions?
More recently there’s been an idle issue. When warm and idling on an up hill, it starts stumbling and will stall if you don’t open the throttle to keep it alive. The tell tale black smoke of rich mixture is evident during this.
On a down hill on level orientation it’s smooth and idles without stumbling or stalling.
I’m thinking we need to adjust the float to lower the fuel level in the bowl just a tad.
What say you? Any other suggestions?
Not really sure if I remember correctly, but aren't the Weber floats brass? Post some pics here if you do adjust the float level.
First I would remove the air jet on the side of the carb, covered by a threaded brass cover with an O-ring that seals it......and blow it out with compressed air......sometimes they will get some trash in them and it will cause drivability issues. If it is still having issues, then I would look inside of it........look for rust in the fuel bowl.....if so, it could be clogging passages in the carb. Rust in the gas tank of a B-truck is fairly common unfortunately.
Let us know what you find out.
First I would remove the air jet on the side of the carb, covered by a threaded brass cover with an O-ring that seals it......and blow it out with compressed air......sometimes they will get some trash in them and it will cause drivability issues. If it is still having issues, then I would look inside of it........look for rust in the fuel bowl.....if so, it could be clogging passages in the carb. Rust in the gas tank of a B-truck is fairly common unfortunately.
Let us know what you find out.
The problem was resolved by installing a fuel pressure regulator. The Weber float and needle assembly was being overwhelmed by the pressure output from the OEM style mechanical fuel pump. After installing a Mr Gasket inline regulator set to 1.5psi, the problem is solved. I don’t know what pressure the pump was putting on the needle initially. I only know that regulated to 1.5psi is working.
That is amazing......I know others have sworn by having to use a fuel pressure regulator when swapping to the Weber.......and maybe on the automatic trans trucks, with the electric fuel pump, it could be needed......but I have never used one on all of the Weber swaps I've done! That's what's amazing!
That said, it certainly sounds like your Weber needed one......I guess there is some slight differences in the pressure the fuel pumps put out, and possibly the needle & seat pressure and/or material they are made of. Who the heck knows!!
Glad you figured it out!
That said, it certainly sounds like your Weber needed one......I guess there is some slight differences in the pressure the fuel pumps put out, and possibly the needle & seat pressure and/or material they are made of. Who the heck knows!!
Glad you figured it out!
If you check the spec from Weber on the recommended max fuel pressure for the 32/36, its 3psi. Anyone who happens to be running higher pressure than that and not having problems, might consider themselves as lucky and "getting away with it", so far......
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