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Mazda BT 50 & Pickup TrucksWhile Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50
Thx Cusser.
Yes, did that.
Drag was very serious in front wheels. Sometimes so bad I could barely turn wheels by hand once the brakes were warmed up. They released after cooled down.Rear wheels seemed fine.
Put the new master on Today.
Test drove it a good long drive with lots of braking.
The front wheels are not dragging now. I jacked it up and spun them to see. Yippee!
However. Super spongy. What did I do wrong. Seems like they should work great.
Bench bled Master
then bled at master after install.
then at all wheels.
new fresh jar of fluid
I used the tube into bottle method of bleeding. I think I need a much better bleeder.
Should I just try bleeding them more? bleed again at master as per the Haynes says do?
Getting closer I think...
Thx much!
Thx Cusser.
Yes, did that.
Drag was very serious in front wheels. Sometimes so bad I could barely turn wheels by hand once the brakes were warmed up. They released after cooled down.Rear wheels seemed fine.
Put the new master on Today.
Test drove it a good long drive with lots of braking.
The front wheels are not dragging now. I jacked it up and spun them to see. Yippee!
However. Super spongy. What did I do wrong. Seems like they should work great.
Bench bled Master
then bled at master after install.
then at all wheels.
new fresh jar of fluid
I used the tube into bottle method of bleeding. I think I need a much better bleeder.
Should I just try bleeding them more? bleed again at master as per the Haynes says do?
Getting closer I think...
Thx much!
Did you measure and re-adjust the booster pushrod with this new master cylinder?
Bleed the system again, whatever it takes. Yes, you can loosen the tube fitting(s) at the master cylinder and start pumping/bleeding there (put a rag underneath to catch the fluid). Then proceed to the single rear bleeder (driver side) and the front caliper bleeders.
No.
but will now that u say too...
Just for FMI (for my information)
What does that do?
thx
Ah, think I get it...minimizes the distance needed for rear pads to make contact. Thus less fluid travel. Thus less pedal travel. ?
Last edited by Ruckus; Dec 27, 2019 at 10:00 AM.
Reason: Thought
And....adjusting the rear brakes, and bleeding again certainly helped. ! Thx.
Brakes are decent now. Safe enough to drive, no prob. not sticking.
The master wasn't horribly expensive on Rock auto. So, glad I did it. I think this was the key to the sticking brakes. And it is nice knowing it is new.
I think my expectations may be a bit high for a 28 year old truck. They are simply not going to be as tight and responsive as a new vehicle.
But working great and I will continue monitor them (the brakes)
FYI for anyone adjusting the rear brakes.
I over tightened the driver side. So, went to loosen them up with the "pawl lever" release.
Haynes manual has a pic with this thing at the top of the star adjuster. It is NOT on top of star adjuster, but at bottom.
No way to get at it. Can't see it. Can't get 2 screw drivers in to even find it.
Took the hub off to loosen it back up. Much easier this way.
Then started over with the adjustment.