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Mazda BT 50 & Pickup TrucksWhile Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50
My front brakes are sticking pretty bad, but not all the time.
Wondering if I need to replace the master.?
Before I jump in to doing it... what are some things I can check to be sure it is the master?
I am suspecting master because BOTH front brakes stick
Symptoms:
Both front calipers are sticking pretty significantly. Wheels can turn but not easily.
This happens after I have driven a little. After it has sat for several hours they unlock.
The rear brakes seem NOT to be sticking.
Brakes are generally spongy.
I do need new pads pretty soon.
What I have done:
I bled them a couple of times. This seems to help for just a little while.
I suctioned all the old brake fluid out of reservoir, and bled through new until it was clean at all bleed screws.
There is no leaking of fluid at wheels or near master.
Before I jump in to doing it... what are some things I can check to be sure it is the master?
Symptoms:
Both front calipers are sticking pretty significantly. This happens after I have driven a little. After it has sat for several hours they unlock.
The rear brakes seem NOT to be sticking.
Brakes are generally spongy.
I do need new pads pretty soon.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thx much!
Ruckus - I've come across this before. I think that your brake pushrod or power booster pushrod is a tad too long, causing the lockup as things expand by heat of braking. So try adjusting the pushrod about 2mm shorter. You don't need to disconnect brake lines or bleed to try this; the master cylinder can be unbolted and moved forward (front of truck) enough to get access.
Each time I replace a brake master cylinder on these, I measure the depth of the recess of the new MC and compare to the existing, and if different then I adjust the pushrod accordingly. Ask me how I learned that this was important !!!
That's the correct pushrod - so you adjusted that about 1 to 2mm shorter by holding/loosening the serrated nut part with a Vise-Grips and turning the hex part?
Was there any liquid/brake fluid in that booster recess?
Take a small wrench with you, and when front brakes lock up again, loosen front caliper bleed screw and see if the front brakes are then free. Yes, I'm not ruling out the master cylinder either.
Wanted to make sure I got the right part. The manual picture shows booster with 4 mounting bolts/posts. but the engine side only has two.
Held serrated with grips.
turned nut IN about 2mm (measured).
I did not need to loosen the serrated part.
I was able to turn the nut end in with 7mm wrench
hard to know about fluid in recess as I WD40'd the rod to help loosen threads.
I want to say there was a bit fluid wetness.
Did the "booster check" sequence in the Haynes manual and it checks out according to the Haynes pumping brakes, engine start etc.
Loosened bleeder screw/valve at caliper. Driver side. The wheel turned pretty freely after I loosened screw.
It did NOT lock back up after I tightened the bleeder valve.
I do hear it rubbing slightly. However, it went from unturnable by hand to spinning pretty freely.
Passenger side front wheel the same. It was not as locked up as the driver side, but still pretty locked.
Calipers? Just coincidentally both at the same time?
Today I finally got to replace stuff on driver side. I had done the passenger side....just, well, life...
I went ahead on both sides of the front replaced:
Caliper
Rotor
Pads
bBall joints
Tie rod ends & connecting rods
Brake hose
Anywayyyyy…...the new calipers are working, but I still feel significant drag after test driving around.
I have a new master.....so maybe for Christmas I will give it a new Master.....will report back.
B2200 sticking brakes. Need master?
