I have a 1997 Mazda b2300 with the 2.3 dual plug head and 5 speed trans. the main issue im having is that when i leave for work it will start just fine (it always runs rough) but if i let it run for just a minute (Engine can still be dead cold) it wont crank again. if i let it sit for a hour or so it'll fire right back up. it also will randomly try to die out when idling at a light. it has ran rough ever since i got it but the issue seems to be getting worse. it also wont go past 70 unless i STRETCH out 3rd and as soon as i put it into 4th it starts loosing speed like it doesn't have the power to keep the truck moving. previous owner replaced spark plugs and wires right before he sold it. since ive owned it i replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid and sensor, dpfe sensor, vacuum lines, coolant temp sensor, and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. there's probably a few other things im forgetting but that's the main things. any help is GREATLY appreciated as this is my only ride back and forth to work at the moment

 

Based on your information you need to scan your ECU. You should find DTC which will help in diagnosis your problems.
Without that information that it makes it almost impossible for a DIY let alone any forum to help you except to go down the list of guessing.

Part of your info suggests that the very first thing is to have your battery load tested no matter the age or what your think is that health of the battery. Because you seem to be with your limited profile in the US many auto parts chain offer for free both battery testing and a basic scan of your ECU.

When it goes into the no start time period you should pull a spark plug and see what it generally looks like. Maybe take and post a picture.
You should be running that year and miles on the odometer under 70 mph but if you insist on driving faster than you should do a complete mechanical testing of the health of the engine.
Compression test both dry and wet and likely followed up by a cylinder leak down test.

I would resist the temptation of randomly replacing unconfirm as problematic parts because this often times from DIY creates additional or supportive problems to the yet unresolved ones.

 

the battery is good i tested it about a week ago and there are no codes coming up when i scan it

 

Well …that’s interesting when you turn the ignition and the engine turns over and does not start there will be a DTC.

Now you need to check that the ECU is reporting properly as a DIY…pull one spark plug wire then do a startup engine procedure . Even if the engine start, then turn it off. You should have gotten a check engine light and a DTC relating to the cylinder you pulled the spark plug wire.


So you checked the battery for voltage or did you have it load tested?