89 mazda b2600i engine rebuild kit
#3
I don't ever buy a rebuild "kit". I will pull the engine apart first, then examine & measure all of the hard parts and figure out what I can still use, and what needs replacing. I then will look online for name brand parts, hopefully made in the USA, or Japan. A lot of times you can find original Mazda parts at decent prices......although they will typically be priced higher than what you can buy that was made in China. Most of the "kits" you see advertised online are mostly made in China or Taiwan.......and in those cases, you get what you pay for.
I have had plenty of luck not having to bore the Mazda cylinders......I believe I have rebuilt at least 10-12 of these truck engines (B2000, B2200, & B2600) and only twice have I had the cylinders bored, and therefore, bought over-sized pistons & rings to match. Every other time, the cylinders and stock pistons were OK to re-use......you don't have to re-bore every time you rebuild an engine.....I have decent measuring tools (Dial Caliper, Micrometers, Dial Bore Gage, etc.) and after measuring everything, you get a good understanding of where the motor is, wear wise.
I most always buy FelPro or Mazda gaskets, especially head gaskets......Federal Mogul parts, Clevite bearings, Speed Pro pistons, etc. A lot of these name brand parts can be found on RockAuto, and Amazon......it takes a little time to search, but usually you can find what you need, and only what you need, at decent prices. One gasket I NEVER use on a Mazda engine........is a Oil Pan Gasket! Mazda didn't use on either.....but everyone (including FelPro) makes one!
I have had plenty of luck not having to bore the Mazda cylinders......I believe I have rebuilt at least 10-12 of these truck engines (B2000, B2200, & B2600) and only twice have I had the cylinders bored, and therefore, bought over-sized pistons & rings to match. Every other time, the cylinders and stock pistons were OK to re-use......you don't have to re-bore every time you rebuild an engine.....I have decent measuring tools (Dial Caliper, Micrometers, Dial Bore Gage, etc.) and after measuring everything, you get a good understanding of where the motor is, wear wise.
I most always buy FelPro or Mazda gaskets, especially head gaskets......Federal Mogul parts, Clevite bearings, Speed Pro pistons, etc. A lot of these name brand parts can be found on RockAuto, and Amazon......it takes a little time to search, but usually you can find what you need, and only what you need, at decent prices. One gasket I NEVER use on a Mazda engine........is a Oil Pan Gasket! Mazda didn't use on either.....but everyone (including FelPro) makes one!
#4
I don't ever buy a rebuild "kit". I will pull the engine apart first, then examine & measure all of the hard parts and figure out what I can still use, and what needs replacing. I then will look online for name brand parts, hopefully made in the USA, or Japan. A lot of times you can find original Mazda parts at decent prices......although they will typically be priced higher than what you can buy that was made in China. Most of the "kits" you see advertised online are mostly made in China or Taiwan.......and in those cases, you get what you pay for.
I have had plenty of luck not having to bore the Mazda cylinders......I believe I have rebuilt at least 10-12 of these truck engines (B2000, B2200, & B2600) and only twice have I had the cylinders bored, and therefore, bought over-sized pistons & rings to match. Every other time, the cylinders and stock pistons were OK to re-use......you don't have to re-bore every time you rebuild an engine.....I have decent measuring tools (Dial Caliper, Micrometers, Dial Bore Gage, etc.) and after measuring everything, you get a good understanding of where the motor is, wear wise.
I most always buy FelPro or Mazda gaskets, especially head gaskets......Federal Mogul parts, Clevite bearings, Speed Pro pistons, etc. A lot of these name brand parts can be found on RockAuto, and Amazon......it takes a little time to search, but usually you can find what you need, and only what you need, at decent prices. One gasket I NEVER use on a Mazda engine........is a Oil Pan Gasket! Mazda didn't use on either.....but everyone (including FelPro) makes one!
I have had plenty of luck not having to bore the Mazda cylinders......I believe I have rebuilt at least 10-12 of these truck engines (B2000, B2200, & B2600) and only twice have I had the cylinders bored, and therefore, bought over-sized pistons & rings to match. Every other time, the cylinders and stock pistons were OK to re-use......you don't have to re-bore every time you rebuild an engine.....I have decent measuring tools (Dial Caliper, Micrometers, Dial Bore Gage, etc.) and after measuring everything, you get a good understanding of where the motor is, wear wise.
I most always buy FelPro or Mazda gaskets, especially head gaskets......Federal Mogul parts, Clevite bearings, Speed Pro pistons, etc. A lot of these name brand parts can be found on RockAuto, and Amazon......it takes a little time to search, but usually you can find what you need, and only what you need, at decent prices. One gasket I NEVER use on a Mazda engine........is a Oil Pan Gasket! Mazda didn't use on either.....but everyone (including FelPro) makes one!
#5
LOL......trouble is, I need time! Been super busy with work lately, and projects around the house.....for 5 years now I've been saying that I'm going to do all the engine/trans work on my 55 Chevy, and still haven't done it yet! Gonna try to get to it this winter.....we shall see.
I do have several trucks running around Gainesville that I've rebuilt their engines for them.....still have my 1989 red regular cab with it's rebuilt engine in it that I built in 2011, so ten years later, sold & bought back twice, and she is still going strong! On that engine I DID NOT bore the cylinders, and I re-used the original pistons......just cleaned it all good, re-ringed the original pistons, honed the cylinders with a 240 grit flex hone, hand polished the original crank journals, new Sealed Power bearings, new oil pump, water pump, seals, etc.
So proof, if you can check & measure your Mazda engine, and if it is still within, or not far out of the Factory Service Manual's specs, you can rebuild it without boring it, and re-use the factory pistons......and save money doing so......and put another 10 years or more on that engine, and still have a standard bore/crankshaft engine!
Here's a couple of pics for proof!
I do have several trucks running around Gainesville that I've rebuilt their engines for them.....still have my 1989 red regular cab with it's rebuilt engine in it that I built in 2011, so ten years later, sold & bought back twice, and she is still going strong! On that engine I DID NOT bore the cylinders, and I re-used the original pistons......just cleaned it all good, re-ringed the original pistons, honed the cylinders with a 240 grit flex hone, hand polished the original crank journals, new Sealed Power bearings, new oil pump, water pump, seals, etc.
So proof, if you can check & measure your Mazda engine, and if it is still within, or not far out of the Factory Service Manual's specs, you can rebuild it without boring it, and re-use the factory pistons......and save money doing so......and put another 10 years or more on that engine, and still have a standard bore/crankshaft engine!
Here's a couple of pics for proof!
Last edited by MeB2000; 09-19-2021 at 12:33 PM.
#6
Actually, I did have to replace the cylinder head on that engine, because my oldest son overheated the engine.......not his fault really.....the radiator cap was not sealing completely or working properly, and the cooling system would not "suck" the coolant back into the radiator as it should when the engine cooled down. It creates a vacuum in the closed system, that will pull coolant from the recovery tank to replenish the radiator coolant level as the system cools back down after driving the vehicle......apparently, it wasn't replenishing the coolant, and the radiator would get low and finally it overheated. When I went to rescued him, the coolant level in the radiator was low, but the recovery tank was full.......first time I had seen that happen!
So the moral of this story is.......buy a new QUALITY radiator cap after rebuilding your engine!! I never had to get any further into the engine......replaced the head gasket & head, and she's still going strong.
So the moral of this story is.......buy a new QUALITY radiator cap after rebuilding your engine!! I never had to get any further into the engine......replaced the head gasket & head, and she's still going strong.
#7
Actually, Earl (MeB2000) had discussed this for my truck quite a few year ago, but the distance and the wait time directed me to go on my own path. Now that my B2200 runs good and doesn't smoke, all is good.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post