Cusser's post saying you don't see these on the road much any longer got me to thinking I should post the progress on my '88 B2200.

Back in April 2021, a good friend of mine at work said he was getting rid of his old Mazda truck. It had 106,000 miles and hadn't run for several years (3-4?) and he said I could have it for free. The vehicle had been in his wife's family since brand new - his wife's grandma bought it when she retired and it was eventually passed on to the granddaughter as a reliable, around-town ride. My buddy fell in love with the granddaughter in high school and thought (correctly) she was one cool person driving around in that little 5 speed pick up! The vehicle was well maintained, first by the grandfather and then granddaughter - regular oil changes, scheduled maintenance, etc. However, like a lot of old vehicles, most of the mechanical parts were simultaneously getting worn out.

Fast forward about a decade and they are married, have kids, and have moved on to newer, safer rides for the family. The truck is forgotten, except that it sits in front of their house, not running, as nice reminder of a previous time (but also slowly turning into a broken down heap/eye sore from the neighborhood's view). So I had it towed to my house and started plugging away on it. It had 106,000 miles and, thankfully, came with the original 1988 Mazda B2600, B2200 Workshop Manual. I have spent many hours studying that book. The Chilton manual, which I also have, is a sad replacement for the original workshop manual.

My goal isn't a complete restoration, but a mechanical rejuvenation. I am not trying to make or save money and I am not looking to turn it onto something it isn't - really, I just wanted a project truck where I could practice some skills I already have and learn some new ones along the way. I have spent way more than the truck is worth so far and I wouldn't change a single decision. Well, I take that back, I would have chosen to put the new radio antenna down before going through the automated car wash!

Here are some pics:


Paint completely oxidized and dirty stains embedded

Soap and water would wash away white paint - you can see it running down the red trim (red color is called "desert wine", which my wife likes)

Tires have a bunch of tread left and were very nice quality Michelins, but had sat in one place for ~4 years, so I am not trusting them

Doesn't run - replace fuel lines and fuel pump, but carb isn't taking gas. Replace with rebuilt carb, and now it runs.




Good close up of paint oxidation - this is gonna take some elbow grease to recover

These front brakes don't look so great

Even worse looking (and smelling) with the bearing cap removed

Bearing on the "burned" side

Yes, I think it's safe to say these pads are due for a replacement

Much better

 

Meant to make one big long thread, but had technical issues (not with the site, but my brain!).

Anyway, continuing:



Rear drums not any better

Rebuilt rear drums

Boxes starting to pile

Suspension and steering - bought one of the reasonably priced complete kits from Ebay, plus a few better parts from Moog. The only part above that was a bust was the Pitman arm (too tight for spline). Ordered another brand, problem solved.

Parts still piling up

Old vs new - the old alternator might have still worked, but I went ahead and replaced with a rebuilt one as I was already doing the water pump and timing belt and ...


Radiator leaking, of course - found a new one

Broke the pulley adjusting bolt when putting front end of the engine back together - this was one of the more expensive parts per unit value that I had to replace. There was a B2200 at the dump that got crushed the day before I broke this - missed my chance, couldn't find another local B2200, and ended up paying something stupid like $50 for the two bolts new from Ebay. Win some, lose some.

First time I got it running and went to fill with fresh gas, gas poured on ground. Discovered tank vent hose was broken where it met the tank. Found some fuel rated, 5/8" ID fuel-rated hose online.

All the rubber bushings for front suspension and steering were shot

More shot bushings

Most of the front end steering and suspension, plus oil pan and windage tray, removed from replacement/resealing



Crankshaft with pan removed

Replacing valve cover gasket - as soon as I got it running, I realized both the oil pan and valve cover gasket were leaking and making a real mess

Looks pretty decent for a 33 year old truck!



Sweet original interior in very good condition - dash excellent. Only exceptions is some of the plastic on speaker covers is gone/shot and the horn buttons have degraded. The horn and cigarette lighter still don't work - they are on my list

Seats look amazing

Door panels good, little cracking near locks, but who cares?

Back seat fine for very, very little people and groceries

One more reply coming with exterior pics (ran out of space)

 

After a ton of elbow grease, rubbing compound and wax, it doesn't look too bad! The red bottom trim came out particularly nice - even though it's transparent in spots (rubbing compound turned rags red immediately), it's stable now with the wax and surprisingly attractive with it's imperfections. Part of what I have always loved about messing with old vehicles.

Here's a complete list of everything I have done so far:Completed Projects - Replaced with New or Rebuilt (R)

(All done at 106,xxx miles)

Fuel pump, fuel line filter, fuel lines in engine bay

Battery

Slave clutch cylinder

Clutch master cylinder fluid change and line bleed

Wiper blades

Window channel runs (found on Ebay - one window didn't work the old channels were so shot)

Tailgate latch

Spark plugs

Spark plug wires

Carburetor (R)

Seafoam in gas and engine block

Engine air filter

Radio antenna

Repaired interior plastic fender

New keys

Front brakes - rotors, calipers (R), pads, bearings, bearing seals

Rear brakes - shoes, drums, brake cylinders, springs, etc.

Degreased engine compartment

PCV valve

Front audio speakers

Change oil (after Seafoam) with Lucas Oil Stabilizer and Mobil synthetic oil

Gas cap

Drivers side mirror

Front and rear gas shocks

Timing belt

Timing belt tensioner pulley

Timing belt idler pulley

Timing cover gaskets

Water pump

Gasket and O ring on coolant outlet pipe

AC belt

Flushed cooling system, coolant

Reverse flushed heater core

Radiator (New)

Alternator (R)

Alternator/Fan Belt

Power steering belt

Brake fluid flush

Toyo tires

Wash, rubbing compound, wax

Fixed radiator sensor leak (manufacturer did lousy job cutting threads)

Upper, lower ball joints, both sides

Resealed oil pan and windage tray with Permatex RTV (followed by second oil change)

Gas tank vent hose

Gas door cable latch repaired

Transmission fluid

Valve cover gasket

Pitman arm

Idler arm

Tension bar bushing kits

Stabilizer bar bushings

Linkage kits between tension bar and stabilizer bar

Inner and outer tie rods

Alignment at Firestone

I have another list for next projects, but "Mike", as we call him, is back on the road and running great.

 

LX Model. VERY NICE. I hope I would've done exactly the same had that truck been available to me. Interior especially looks good, and you've done a really great job. If mine, I'd replace the three little coolant bypass hoses under the intake manifold.

Like with old VWs: these trucks are worth saving !

 

"If mine, I'd replace the three little coolant bypass hoses under the intake manifold." Thanks Cusser - I will add those to the list. I did the big coolant hoses coming from the radiator, but not those or the heater inlet/outlet hoses - no reason other than parts buying fatigue! At one point I must have had 30-40 parts waiting to be installed and my wife was starting to give me some pretty suspicious looks, especially as I bought the truck so she would have an extra vehicle when our youngest borrows her car.

My next project is to figure out why the cigarette lighter/12V outlet doesn't work (not the fuse). I want to be able to keep a phone charged. The ignition switch also has a connection issue and I am going to replace it - so hopefully that simultaneously solves 12V outlet problem.

 

8mm i.d. by-pass hose to – underside of Intake Manifold to Pipe on passenger side: Mazda FE87-13-116 $6, or S-shaped Gates 18100 (cut to length, special order O’Reillys), S-shaped Gates 18100 or Gates 28408

10mm i.d. by-pass hose parallel to cylinder head almost-straight hose going toward the /firewall Mazda FE1H-15-288 $6 or Gates 28409

10mm U-shaped Bypass hose Mazda FE65-15-284B Gates 18206 Dayco 71348

Heater hoses Dayco 87713 and 87712 special order AutoZone ($7 and $29) Gates 18900 and 18899 special order O’Reillys

Remember that the stock cigarette lighter is only "live" when the key is in the "Run" position. I added an accessory "always live" lighter socket into the glove box of my B2200 to keep my cell phone charged, back when I left it in my truck 24/7.

 

Thanks for the parts numbers Cusser - much appreciated.

 

thats an amazing truck. i wish i got mine in that nice of shape. i just picked one up this past fall. a 92 b2200 lx5. so its loaded with everything except a/c. which isnt a deal breaker for me. its a regular cab short bed. it was used as a farm truck for the last 15+ years of its life. its a little rough around the edges. a few rust holes in the bed and the rockers and holes on both sides of the floor boards where it meat the firewall. like right inside of the front wheel well at the back side of it. the thing runs very very well actually. i do have the high idle issue. i have been messing with the carb a little bit trying to fine tune it but i think a rebuild will be my best option. im going to go thru and just replace things as needed. i dont have the most money laying around so this thing is goin to be a driver and replace parts when i can. i will fix all the rust and mechanical myself obviously. its red and grey interior. i grew up loving these trucks in the 90s. i had family members who had them and lowered them. so i will probably go with a 3 inch front drop and 4 inch rear static drop. im trying to locate a set of 16x10 wheels from the 90s but they are getting hard to find. i would go with 17s if i found a set i like. but im trying to stick to the 90s era build. and if anyone knows where i can find a decent bed i would be interested in just replacing the whole bed if i can.

 

If aftermarket Weber carb, these need a stronger return spring.

 

Good luck finding a replacement bed Brandon. Here in central NC they are pretty hard to find. I keep a notification on my email for the local PYP store and there hasn’t been a new 2200 in the yard for over 6 months. They had one last summer and when I drove over to grab a few odds and ends, they had already crushed it. Damn!

The bed is the only place on my 2200 where there’s any rust at all - and that’s only because it had one of those stupid plastic bed liners badly installed, so it was trapping moisture and making compost. I am thinking that when the weather gets better I am going to pull that bed and fix it myself. My only hesitation is that the worst rust spots are also near the mounting bolts, so it could turn into a real pain.

Have fun getting yours up and running! I am working on my next Mazda project at present - an 82 RX-7.