Intermittent loss of power on 2000 Mazda 323 1.5L
#1
Intermittent loss of power on 2000 Mazda 323 1.5L
I've been meaning to get around to putting this thread up for months, but it's not been that pressing. I will take it to the garage when I get some cash, but in the meantime I thought I'd see what the collective think.
So. My car, a 2000 Mazda 323 with a 1.5L engine. It's great, I love it, but it has an intermittent issue where it seems to lose power for a set amount of revs, and then bursts into live again.
This usually happens when I've driven for a few minutes then cut the engine, then start the engine again. I.E. going to get petrol. When I start the engine again it revs really low, the exhaust judders like mad, and it loses loads of power. I can drive, but it can barely get over 30mph and hills are near impossible. This continues for a few mins and then 'vroom!' the engine kicks into life again.
It only does it once per journey and it's never done it at speed. It has done it when driving in traffic a few times, so it's not always when starting/stopping/starting.
This may have started after a full service, the car was new to me prior to that and I hadn't really driven it in the same circumstances in which it occurs. I took it back to the garage who did the service (they have great reputation) and they said I'd have to take it to another garage up the road who have the diagnostic computer thing. I didn't have much cash so I've put it off.
It's been happening for months, I've just been **** at taking it the garage, partly in fear of a large bill.
It feels a bit like when old cars had the choke left in too long, but the juddering exhaust (makes the whole car shake) suggests otherwise. The engine seems fine when it does it, no odd noises from there.
So my guess is that it's an exhaust, catalytic converter (do cars still have them?!) or air filter issue, but I have **** all idea about engines so probably best to ignore me.
Any ideas, other than the obvious "just go to the **** garage" issue - that's a given, it'd just be interesting to hear some opinions.
It's pretty consistent, yeah. Nearly every journey within the first 3 or 4 miles. Only really when in traffic. Never have the issue when I can drive at a steady speed.
Thanks in advance
So. My car, a 2000 Mazda 323 with a 1.5L engine. It's great, I love it, but it has an intermittent issue where it seems to lose power for a set amount of revs, and then bursts into live again.
This usually happens when I've driven for a few minutes then cut the engine, then start the engine again. I.E. going to get petrol. When I start the engine again it revs really low, the exhaust judders like mad, and it loses loads of power. I can drive, but it can barely get over 30mph and hills are near impossible. This continues for a few mins and then 'vroom!' the engine kicks into life again.
It only does it once per journey and it's never done it at speed. It has done it when driving in traffic a few times, so it's not always when starting/stopping/starting.
This may have started after a full service, the car was new to me prior to that and I hadn't really driven it in the same circumstances in which it occurs. I took it back to the garage who did the service (they have great reputation) and they said I'd have to take it to another garage up the road who have the diagnostic computer thing. I didn't have much cash so I've put it off.
It's been happening for months, I've just been **** at taking it the garage, partly in fear of a large bill.
It feels a bit like when old cars had the choke left in too long, but the juddering exhaust (makes the whole car shake) suggests otherwise. The engine seems fine when it does it, no odd noises from there.
So my guess is that it's an exhaust, catalytic converter (do cars still have them?!) or air filter issue, but I have **** all idea about engines so probably best to ignore me.
Any ideas, other than the obvious "just go to the **** garage" issue - that's a given, it'd just be interesting to hear some opinions.
It's pretty consistent, yeah. Nearly every journey within the first 3 or 4 miles. Only really when in traffic. Never have the issue when I can drive at a steady speed.
Thanks in advance
#2
Just came to this old thread via Google - I also have a 2000 1.5L 323 GXi that I've just recently bought (my second in fact) with exactly the same problem.
I will add that mine has issues with low RPM (<1000) when idling even when the loss-of-power problem is not present.
Does anyone have any theories as to what the issue might be?
Any info/ideas/tips very gratefully received.
I will add that mine has issues with low RPM (<1000) when idling even when the loss-of-power problem is not present.
Does anyone have any theories as to what the issue might be?
Any info/ideas/tips very gratefully received.
#3
You need to replace your ignition coil packs. One of them is on the blink. You could just replace one, but I'd recommend replacing both to be certain.
I got them from here: Ignition Car Parts
I was told of this by a guy in Australia who'd spent over a grand (£) on diagnostic checks before they uncovered the problem!
It couldn't be easier to replace them. Disconnect battery, undo both packs, replace, reconnect battery. I'm a complete novice when it comes to mechanics and I managed it.
All the best,
Chris
I got them from here: Ignition Car Parts
I was told of this by a guy in Australia who'd spent over a grand (£) on diagnostic checks before they uncovered the problem!
It couldn't be easier to replace them. Disconnect battery, undo both packs, replace, reconnect battery. I'm a complete novice when it comes to mechanics and I managed it.
All the best,
Chris
#4
323 dies while trying to accelerate or loss of power when pulling off.
I also come accross this old post while searching for possible remedies for the fault explained above. My 323 would just die while trying to accelerate.
Granted you can have this problem with faulty coil pack's but this was not the case here. When you have a fault with one of the coils it will 99% be with
just one coil, so you can eleiminate the faulty one by removing one plug lead at a time.
when you find the faulty coil your engine will continue to run on just 3 cylinders and will not cut out. I have had this problem on a Renault Laguna. (Similar Setup)
This is a last resort as the coil pack's cost £100.00+
The issue on my 323 turned out to be a leak in the air intake hose. It had a split half way round on the consatina part. There is an air pressure switch mounted
just after the air box, if vaccuum is lost the ECU will cut the fuel to the engine and cause the sudden loss of power. Eventually my 323 was bunny hopping while
trying to pull off.
Check carefully for air leaks between the air filter box and the air intake manifold.
Take the hose off and check carefully!
Don
I also come accross this old post while searching for possible remedies for the fault explained above. My 323 would just die while trying to accelerate.
Granted you can have this problem with faulty coil pack's but this was not the case here. When you have a fault with one of the coils it will 99% be with
just one coil, so you can eleiminate the faulty one by removing one plug lead at a time.
when you find the faulty coil your engine will continue to run on just 3 cylinders and will not cut out. I have had this problem on a Renault Laguna. (Similar Setup)
This is a last resort as the coil pack's cost £100.00+
The issue on my 323 turned out to be a leak in the air intake hose. It had a split half way round on the consatina part. There is an air pressure switch mounted
just after the air box, if vaccuum is lost the ECU will cut the fuel to the engine and cause the sudden loss of power. Eventually my 323 was bunny hopping while
trying to pull off.
Check carefully for air leaks between the air filter box and the air intake manifold.
Take the hose off and check carefully!
Don
Last edited by gt4rules; 11-06-2011 at 10:03 AM.
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