I have cleaned the parts UseYourNoggin. Nothing I have done to it has helped or worked.
Now when it does decide to idle it loads up on fuel and idles rougher than hell. When I rev it up a bit to clear it out, then the throttle goes right back up to 3K.
I drove it today to go to the Dr's, and if I rode the brakes to slow it down at a stop sign, the RPM's would drop back to an idle and then die.
I also ended up with another check engine light, and the code is P1516: Manufacturer Specific: Drive Train.

So off to the shop it goes later this week.
And Kevinkpk, what is the deal with using an analog meter on electronics? I'm just curious is all. Thanks.

 

I watched the youtube video link tanprotoge posted in his reply, and that guy used an analog meter. My guess is because a digital meter would be harder to read the drop in resistance. But I could be wrong.
I had my leads hooked up to the #1 & #3 pins on the TPS. Did I have them on the right leads? Or would I hook the probes up to the #1 & #2 leads?
I need to break down and get a manual for it.

 

P1516 might be the problem your looking for, that error is for the neutral safety switch, usually the problem is the connector for it at the harnesss under the airbox. This also controls many engine functions such as IAC (Idle Air Control), fuel injector control, fuel pressure regulator, electric spark, EGR and purge control. If this is bad it could be all your problems in one bag. There was a TSB out for this, dunno the number though.

 

"First NEVER EVER EVER use an analog meter to check ohms on ANYTHING electronic made in the last 30 years, EVER! Second the tps voltage will change with movement."

Kevin: Could you please explain why?


Mailman: if you know how to check a TPS you can buy one from the junk yard.

 

I will check and clean the contacts for the neutral safety switch under the air box. I didn't realize it affects that many engine controls.
The code popped up on my last drive and it was the 1st time it had come up.
I did however keep getting an error code for the Evap system saying there is a small leak somewhere. It hasn't come up as of late.

 

I had thought about that tanprotege, but you never know what you are going to get or how long it will hold up. I plan on calling a couple of local yards tomorrow and see what they have. I guess it can't hurt to try one to see if it straightens out.
Thanks.

 

BTW the TSB you should look for is TSB#0102005, that is for your P1516 code. Keep us posted as to what is going on

 

Has anybody thought of checking the harmonic damper of the crank pulley... If the rubber looses its grip it can advance or retard the timing... that messes up the computers brain and can eventually cause your engine to run hot... Took me a while to figure that one out.. Developed a crack in the engine because of that... replaced the engine and radiator. It pushed all the compression out the radiator. Now my computer is buggered and the agents want more for a computer than what the car is worth. You can see the model on my pictures.

 

My car has a 5 speed, so it won't have a neutral safety switch. It's now at the dealership and they are going to look at it next Tuesday.

 

On the passenger side of the engine at the back near the intake are 2 vacuum/electric operated solenoids. One is hooked to a short rod that goes under the side of the intake. I have no idea what it's for, but the rod moves freely. There isn't anything hooked to the electrical connector, and I looked for a connector that might be hanging there that goes to it. There are vacuum lines that come from the intake that are connected to it. It doesn't appear to do anything, at least at idle.
I will get some pics as soon as I get it back home. I haven't been able to find anything for it online.
Anyone might know what it's for? I originally thought it was part of the EGR system.
It has a black connector with two wires that connect to it.