94 626 4-cyl manual with stall/idle problems.

Earlier today, the car was running okay and when I stopped to get gas, it died it would crank but wouldn't start. Finally got it to start, but it was VERY weak and died after just a few seconds.
Had it towed to the shop - they replaced the distributor cap & rotor believing that was the problem. Didn't help.
Car will start although runs very weak with extremely ROUGH idle and dies immediately when you step on the gas.

Any ideas on what could be causing this?

The car has been running pretty well for the most part. Idle has been okay unless AC was on if AC was on while waiting at a stop light, etc, the idle would drop almost to the point of stalling and then bounce back up-I usually just cut the AC off when rolling to a stop.
There has been some instances of sputtering and jerking at highway speeds.

 

an update: car is idling steady but a little high when warm 1000rpm. Misses, sputters & stumbles when I give it some gas and it is not driveable. When I unplug the MAF, it runs MUCH better, close to normal. So, would that indicate the MAF sensor is bad or ?

I spent $250 at the shop and they did nothing to help the idle/stall/miss problem. I cleaned the IAC this morning and about all it did was bring the idle RPM from 2000 down to 1000.
I am definitely not a mechanic but couldn't afford to leave it with those yahoos at the neighborhood shop. I knew I was in trouble with this shop when the mechanic unplugged the MAF sensor and was alarmed or puzzled when he saw the engine light come on and thought it necessary to do a diagnostic scan.
I need help please!
Thank you,
Kathy

 

By the way: The MAF has been cleaned.

 

Since you got maf cleanedit almost sounds like clogged up converter. start your car have it running and have someone put a hand over your tailpipe and see if you get a lot of pressure or little to no pressure and that will eliminate one more problem or have you had a new fuel filter instaleed lately? just some Idea's hope they help

 

UPDATE: It's been over a month since my car was in the shop and it hasn't been driven since-it wasn't driveable.
After MUCH stress AND expense replacing several parts that didn't help, today removed the distributor to check the ignition coil. Well, after removing the new distributor cap I quickly noticed that the rotor was definitely not new. When my car was in the shop, they told me they had replaced the rotor & dist cap. So, a NEW rotor solved this problem and the car is FINALLY running again. The shop also charged me for cleaning my EGR valve which I removed this past friday to inspect and it was filthy and clogged up.
I'm going to visit the shop tomorrow. I paid them over $250 for these repairs!
Happy my car is running but furious with this shop.