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Ok so I am a little familiar with that TSB and see why i did find it. Thats on me for not entering the exact DTC. But I generally dont do that because I understand what and how DTC can be generated instead I use disruptive values instead. And your dealer should have documented it on your VIN when you presented them the concern if not taken care of it. Persist that they do.
As for "wide spread" no it is not. Unfortunately TSB and how a DIY or owner reads them is not usually correct when it comes to how problematic a TSB is. They are not design in any way to represent any specific number of actual effected model but rather that a service technician at some dealership noted it and had the authority to write a TESB that was sent to Mazda crop and approved for distribution to all dealerships. Forums and the internet has no true number value because of repeated information from those that actually were affected. Read the complete TSB with notice to part variables.
In conclusion I suggest going re-read your thread here and at least attempt the suggestion I posted.
No one on any Mazda forum is going to give you any better information but any that are service experience and more in line as a Mazda training auto technician or independent Automotive Technician will and should likely give you the same information. BTW at one time I was authorized to actual write TSBs before the requirement changed and you needed to be a full time Mazda service technician. lol There is a hidden joke their if you knew my qualifications.
Good luck and please report back with your resolution and hopefully Mazda taking care of that issue before it has a domino effect on other service issues? auto
You cant go by the hose touch more or less but if what you say is correct then there may be a thermostat problem?. You see where this is going. If you don't *know how to correctly diagnose a problem and have the correct tools any vehcle from at leas production years 2000 (technically 1995) requires both .
I would however be insist that the dealership shows by way of a VIN report that they logged your complaint.
Your commute should be more then long enough and you can see this by looking at the ECU PIDs for the IAT's, CAT.f , monitored coolant F and ignition timing all at the OBDII diagnostic connector. The coolant Blue light goes off at coolant temperatures that exceed 129.9f
The coolant Blue light goes off at coolant temperatures that * exceed 129.9f *ASE
Reading comprehension and then also read slower and completely what members post
I use a Snap-on Solus and check a couple of areas in the ECU as well as an handheld digital temperature gun for information about specific aspects of the engines operations.
FYI unlike most members I do this at work from Mon-Friday every week.
