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Mazda 6 2l Diesel 89kw Throttle body/TB Sensor issue

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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 10:50 AM
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Default Mazda 6 2l Diesel 89kw Throttle body/TB Sensor issue


the main belt and the bearings is on the list to replace to. Also interesting connector near the radiator, still could not find a pair where it should be connected, and that it is anyways?

This is the loop that should go the the air filter but instead made a coppoer tube

This is the longer one and the very bottum is the second one that should gosomewhere but it is disconnected...

other angle

the main belt and the bearings is on the list to replace to.

Take a good look, there is disconnected connector that should go to a upper right od the yellow cap near the silver tube.as i investigated that is EGR, maybe it is deleted? should i remove it and make a good clean, if it is deleted then remove the deletion gasket and replace with a good one. EGR deletion is not my favorite thing on the car.

Throttle body with the sensor looks good but the faulty ones looks good to usualy.. So i am thinking to to replace it

Same loop seen in other photo

the connectors are compeltely broken off but i was assured that this is only a closed loop inside so this is allowed to make a loop like that instead and everything should still work

take a look at the vakuum pump and how the hose goes over it...

other angle

could not take off the heat shield of the turbo itself to see if the actuator does work and moves when it gets a vakuum. There allways a possibility that the turbo tself does not move and instead of creating pressure making it lower.

what about replacing whole housing of the air filter?
Hi, first off all hi everyone and greet the new mazda owner, well not very new but anyways.
Recently i have bought a Mazda 6 2l Diesel with 89kw engine that had issues from a very start.
Lets start from the beggining.
All the wheel allingment was way off, tires i had to trow away, same as the stearing rack, and the stearing pulleys also a wheel bearing, Now the car drives and drives stright (and safe).
The other part is the lost power somewhere.. the previous owner sayd he had to replace the engine with the other, also used one and after replacement the mechanics could not make the car to drive like previous and give all the 89kw (121hp i think) of fun to its owner.
First thing i made is used my own elm327 bluetooth odb2 scanner to take a look at the errors that car is giving. To my very big surprise there where none.. Ok then, after that i thought maybe it needed specific software to see ann the errors, and scan everything. Purchased cheap cable that was supported by forscan, got the trial license of the forscan, while it does scant but not completely everything and not all the services are accessable with the standard license. After that there where few steps i made,
Completely dropped all the adaptations. While there where an engine swap there could be somewhere on any sensor left over adaptation for the old engine and it could not fit new one.In other words i asked a car to learn the engine and emissions mixture.
Then poked to the EGR test as a very basic test, to my surprise that one failed, Then opened the hood to take a GOOD look for a loose vakuum hose(s) and found interesting thing, the Vacuum pump was not even connected, loose hoses hidden under the bigger ones. Got that sorted out when i found ascheme how it should be connected. In other forum the guy who looked at the mess that has bin made in the car told me that the two top ones that goesto a air filter box is not important, if they are with a loop connected in-between then it should work perfectly. And mine is connected one with each other with a copper tube.The tube is also not perfet so i am planning to completely replace the hoses to a new ones and eliminate the possibillity of ANY fail in this part of the system.To my surprise the power did not come back after reconnecting the vacuum pump as it should.
The MAF shows intake 20+ same as intake pressure is 20+psi when i throthle. but weardes thing is the Throttle body with the sensor in it. The sensor is 1-6 perc when idle and goes instantly up to 80percent when i only touch the accelerator pedal. So i am suspecting failed TB Sensor and that could be the problem why the car has no power. Currently looking for a used one to buy and replace (after a GOOD clean from a carbon), but wanted to get a suggestions where too look more.

I had asuspection to a PCV valve but could not find it in the engine bay (while i am new to it)

Also second thought, there was a talk about 89kw and 100kw differences and one guy pointed out that the 100kw engine has only slightly bigger turbo and a bit more aggressive ECU map that allows to achievethe power. So, theoreticaly, if the turbo is dead, i think the vacuum actuator may be dead,But that is only a guessing. AND if the purchase of the new turbo and replacement will be nessesary i may buy a 100kw turbo with a new gaskets, replace the crap i have with a new one and ask tuner to just write a ECU map from 100kw same engine.Will it work and is it worth it.
There is more plans to the car but first off all the mechanical issues should be fixed.
So, all the thoughts, suggestions and all the info about this engine and the car itself is welcome in this post.
P.S. to a forum modderators, if you find it dublicating then feel free to merge the post with the dublicated one and it would be huge thank you for the pin on it
 
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 09:33 AM
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Quick update.
Got some research going on heavily on the engine itself and got some new ideas. As you may know at the acceleration/trothle system there is two ends of the control itself. First is at the pedal: the APP sensor and the second is the trothle position sensor with the motor inside. The ECU stands somewhere in the middle reading both and sending signals to needed components to accelerate or decelerate.
Anyways there is an idea to try take a look at the pedal itself and the APP sensor, there scould be resisistance increase while pressing the pedal and decrease if the pedal is left alone.True? False?
Thoughts?
next thing is there is a thought that the Air Filter housing that has broken off connectors, and the vacuum hoses that should go in to the air filter is just made a small loop, connected with each other. Some tell that in the air filter housing there is just a vacuum chamber, same as the loop that is made and there should be no difference , but something inside of me tells me that japan engineers did not make a simple loop inside of air filter just like that. This should be douing something but i cannot find any schematics explaining this section of the vacuum connections and the schematic of the air filter housing itself. There should be 3 small ***** for the vacuum hoses at that place. But there is non and also i can find only two hoses comming to it so somewhere there is a pretty huge vacuum leak if the third hose is the part of this and it doesnt exist at the place that it should...
Many ideas and no time to dig in to the engine deeper to rebuild the turbo/egr/acceleration systems from the ground up.
If anyone has/had pictures or similar engine would be nice to see in pictures where from and where to the vacuum hoses goes and also if there is missing components (that is possible to) the ids of these parts that i could buy it to get my car to a fun to drive position.

Thanks everyone who reads the post, feel free to join with thoughts and the ideas.
 

Last edited by Daigtas; Sep 8, 2019 at 09:36 AM.
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