Hi guys,
You can also look up on youtube how to do it
If you search on"mazda 6 dpf light reset"!
Mazda keep ripping us off with this unnecessary charge of £40-50,joke!
Good luck!

 

Just changed my oil which took me about an hour and a half. My garage is a long way from the paved area of my drive so took me a while to take the jacks, axle stands and tools to the car lol. My car was well overdue for an oil change and was looking at getting one of those 6 litres oil drain cans from Halfords instead of using my old washing up bowls. Good job I didn't buy one as some of you will know. I drained more than 6 litres out of the car.

4 litres of Comma ecolife and a filter for just under £40.00 and an hour and half of my time which was a saving of £90.00 against the independant garage who has since proved to be nearly much a stealer as the main dealer. See my post on cambelt.

Oil dilution reset with the wire and 5 presses on the accelerator. Thanks a bundle to whoever found this out

 

So, having read your brilliant forum on dpf issues, I just had to join and relate my experiences so far. I am a newbie to the site so please be gentle lol.

So, I am the recent and proud owner of a mazda 6 2005 registration, diesel. Must say, I adore the car, lovely to drive, comfortable and well equipped. Now, to business, it has the flashing dpf light and engine warning light lit.

Oil is absolutely fine, smack on the correct level and correct oil.

Fuel economy roughly 50 to the gallon at a steady 70 mph.

Car pulls well up to around 4 thousand rpm, but then, kinda runs out of torque.


​​​​​​So, browsed Google as you do, and, attempted the dpf reset etc.

Wire into plug and earth as directed, revved the engine twice and presto, the car went into the dpf cleaning mode. Revs held for approximately two minutes at two thousand rpm, no hideous black smoke, nothing.

​​​​​​Turned car off, then back to key position two, pressed accelerator five times and again, presto, glow plug light lit 5 tones. Turned car off, ignition to position 2,obdii ready, and using torque, cleared the faults, which were dpf regeneration faults.

Now, here is the issue, car runs exactly the same, dpf flashing still and engine warning light up.

What the heck am I missing???

With the car running as it is, great fuel economy, not a little sluggish around 4 thousand rpm, surely the car cannot have anything wrong to that extent? Ive heard that limp mode only allows your to rev up to around 3 thousand. So many things, my poor brain is getting confused lol. Whats your opinions guys and, hi all.

David

 

Hi David,

I have had similar problems with my 6, the worst being when I went abroad a couple of years ago. For some reason my Mazda 6 always has light coming on AFTER a long run, stopping say at a services and then setting off again. If only Mazda had put a button on the dash which you can press when on a motorway to clean the dpf there would be a lot less problems with this car. I think I am in a better position to know how long I am going to be travelling for at a decent speed for when compared to the big chief designers at Mazda. I ran my 6 for about 600 miles with it flashing before taking it to a Mazda expert in Austria. If the light is flashing and EML is on the wire trick doesn't work for the regen according to the Mazda mechanic and needs to go to Mazda or somewhere else with appropriate software. I had tried before I took it there. It would start the regen for about 30 seconds or so, rev to about 2k and the back down to idle. My car had failed it's previous regen and had gone into limp mode. It would still pull over 3,000 rpm and was quite happy sat at 80mph on the motorway. The only difference is it cuts the turbo out to protect the engine so well down on power but not speed, just takes a while to get up there.

I had always had issues with this car and the terrible dpf system that Mazda had put in. Such a shame because the car is sound but Mazda have lost a lot of customers with this engine design. Just read the forums on Honest John. Last year about 50 miles into a journey, 80 mph on the A1 and light comes on and then flashing with EML. Now by this time I had obtained a Delphi DS150 diagnostic tool, reached my destination and no luck with regen. I then bought the Mazda VCM and still wouldn't regen. I had a chat with a local garage who was looking at buying some expensive dealer spec software and he used my car as an experiment. He said if he couldn’t fix it he wouldn’t charge me. Fair enough. No luck with regen. He said it could be the CO2 sensor. He was right. That's the little block bolted on bulkhead. Now on this car you can't perform a regen if the EML is on. So you have to clear codes and perform the regen but, and this is a big but, if there is something else wrong, other than it failed a regen, like a faulty sensor, then as soon as the EML comes on it will cancel the dpf regen. This sounds like the case with your car. I went the other route with mine and now have no issues with dpf. However the guy who re-mapped my car had some issues and it was all down to the CO2 sensor being faulty.

My advice would be to try another CO2 sensor and then clear the codes and try the regen. Check there are no faulty wires etc. Next to the fusebox there is a large multi-plug with maybe 12 or more wires going to it. Unplug it (ignition off) and have a look at the terminals. They have a habit of corroding and can stop the regen. Also the guy I bought my Mazda VCM from said to use Forscan as it does everything that the Mazda IDS software does. I am not familiar with torque but a modded ELM with Forscan works on the Mazda 6 too. If you buy an ELM make sure you get the modded one with the switch added.

Let me know how you get on.

Regards, Martin

 

Martin, that sounds similar to my problems -- as described a few posts up, I think. I would always get the DPF light flashing around Birmingham, 100 miles into a high-speed trip (*cough* 70mph *cough*) down to London. Yes, sometimes not long after stopping at services, come to think of it.

The problem was nothing at all to do with the DPF, but rather the turbo hoses needing replacement. If I'd been watching carefully, I'd probably have noticed very low boost pressures on the Torque app. The error codes I was getting did indicate that sort of area, but I just assumed that they were due to the management system shutting things down.

AS Cars in Northwich (AS Cars - Mazda 6 used parts spares specialist. Diesel and petrol cars in stock.) sorted me out -- a proper Mazda specialist, and specifically the 6. Give them a shout, esp. if you're in the northwest. They've probably got my business for the rest of the life of my car!

David, if you're getting specific DPF issues from the OBDII scanner, it's probably not the hoses. Perhaps you genuinely need a DPF clean/removal? Be warned -- I was charged £600 from Mazda Stockport for a clean, on the promise that they'd knock it off the price of a new DPF if needed. Turned out that they wanted £2000 for the replacement, which is when I remembered about AS Cars. I was GUTTED when I found out that I could have sorted it for about a tenner (albeit as part of a service) all along.

 

 

Its also worth trying, if youre tearing your hair out, because it wont "take" a reset, disconnect the battery, close the -ve to +ve for half an hour, reconnect, and see if the dpf light has gone out, or if it will then accept a reset. This worked for me when I had tried the "cable-to-earth" reset several times, unsuccessfully.

 

Hi all I am looking for some help and have read this and many other posts to try and solve my problem.

I bought a Mazda 6 2008 2.0 diesel sport a few weeks back and it has the eml light on and dpf light flashing. I have driven it for around 800 miles with no issues just the lack of power due to it being in limp mode. So I have bought an obd scanner to check the codes as all the manual reset options haven't cleared the eml or flashing light. What showed up was code p2463 and code p242f which I believe basically mean the same thing ie the Dpf is blocked and needs regenerating or replacing. So first of all I tried clearing the codes and doing a manual regeneration which started and then stopped as soon as eml light came back on. After a while of trying this I thought if I keep clearing the code in advance would it continue with the regeneration and sure enough it did! I was so happy thinking this could solve the issue as a ton of smoke came out the exhaust as it should have but an hour or so later I gave up with the finger clicking and the car sure enough dropped revs and EML and dpf flashing was back with a vengeance! So I thought maybe the regen isn't going to work as the car has done 125000 and maybe time for a new dpf. So after speaking to mazda to obtain the correct part number and asking how much it costs... £1800 just for the part!!!! I kindly said thanks and bought a brand new dpf and fitting kit for a total of £300 from eBay. Spent a few hours removing the old rusted bolts etc and finally managed to get the new dpf hooked up! Success was what I was hoping for and a ton of money saved at the same time... Sticking it to mazda... bonus! Except the code and EML and dpf flashing cycle has started straight away and I am now at my wits end as I know the dpf isn't blocked as it is brand new! I have also left my obd plugged in and clear the codes while driving and as soon as I do the normal performance is restored proving I keep clearing the code. When I do this though the dpf light remains solid instead and then goes back to flashing with eml! So after many things being tried what I would like to know is can anyone help me with this problem as my obd scanner is not showing any other codes?

Many many thanks and beer's for the person who can point me in the right direction?!!!

 

Hi, if you have access to a obd Bluetooth adaptor (like ones used for torque on phones, if not cheap on ebay) & a laptop download a free program called FORScan , its a ford/ mazda obd program which I found really helpful. You can delete codes, calibrate injectors & do a forced regen. Like I say it worked for me. Also might be worth a mention before I bit the bullet & paid to have dpf removed & a remap done my mazda 5 had the same lights as yours, im sure that there is something on youtube that says something like turn on ignition, turn steering full lock 1 way then the other then turn off ignition,this should turn off lights (although mine was a 5 should be similar I would think)

 

Hi, I am glad to see the back of the flashing dpf and eml light. I had mine flashing at me all the way from Holland to Austria before I could get it fixed. When I got home I bought the mazda/ford vcm and software so I could do my own forced regens. Last time though I couldn't do it. It would go through the cycle about 20 seconds and then cut out again. There are 3 things that could be your problem. The first is what was wrong with mine which is the exhaust pressure sensor. Mine was shot. It's bolted to the bulkead in the engine bay, rectangular in shape and between the middle and passenger side. Two bolts bolt it to the bulkhead and if I remember it has an electrical feed and two pipes that go to it. The second problem could be one of the sensors actually on the dpf itself. Not had no issues with mine. The third is what the mechanic in austria told me to be aware of. In the main muse box next to the battery part of the main wiring can get corroded. Pull all the terminals apart and see you haven't got any corrosion. Do it with the ignition off and battery disconnected. Make sure you know you radio code or turn the security off. The pressure sensor looks similar to the one in the link below. Don't buy it though as its for the later model.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DPF-Press...-/153022840729

Hope you get it sorted.