DPF Service Indicator Resetting? - Page 6 - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums


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  #51  
Old 02-15-2015, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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Just changed my oil which took me about an hour and a half. My garage is a long way from the paved area of my drive so took me a while to take the jacks, axle stands and tools to the car lol. My car was well overdue for an oil change and was looking at getting one of those 6 litres oil drain cans from Halfords instead of using my old washing up bowls. Good job I didn't buy one as some of you will know. I drained more than 6 litres out of the car.

4 litres of Comma ecolife and a filter for just under 40.00 and an hour and half of my time which was a saving of 90.00 against the independant garage who has since proved to be nearly much a stealer as the main dealer. See my post on cambelt.

Oil dilution reset with the wire and 5 presses on the accelerator. Thanks a bundle to whoever found this out
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  #52  
Old 07-17-2017, 06:36 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Oxford
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Default Hi guys, dpf issues grrr

So, having read your brilliant forum on dpf issues, I just had to join and relate my experiences so far. I am a newbie to the site so please be gentle lol.

So, I am the recent and proud owner of a mazda 6 2005 registration, diesel. Must say, I adore the car, lovely to drive, comfortable and well equipped. Now, to business, it has the flashing dpf light and engine warning light lit.

Oil is absolutely fine, smack on the correct level and correct oil.

Fuel economy roughly 50 to the gallon at a steady 70 mph.

Car pulls well up to around 4 thousand rpm, but then, kinda runs out of torque.


​​​​​​So, browsed Google as you do, and, attempted the dpf reset etc.

Wire into plug and earth as directed, revved the engine twice and presto, the car went into the dpf cleaning mode. Revs held for approximately two minutes at two thousand rpm, no hideous black smoke, nothing.

​​​​​​Turned car off, then back to key position two, pressed accelerator five times and again, presto, glow plug light lit 5 tones. Turned car off, ignition to position 2,obdii ready, and using torque, cleared the faults, which were dpf regeneration faults.

Now, here is the issue, car runs exactly the same, dpf flashing still and engine warning light up.

What the heck am I missing???

With the car running as it is, great fuel economy, not a little sluggish around 4 thousand rpm, surely the car cannot have anything wrong to that extent? Ive heard that limp mode only allows your to rev up to around 3 thousand. So many things, my poor brain is getting confused lol. Whats your opinions guys and, hi all.

David
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  #53  
Old 07-18-2017, 03:59 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David310165 View Post
So, having read your brilliant forum on dpf issues, I just had to join and relate my experiences so far. I am a newbie to the site so please be gentle lol.

So, I am the recent and proud owner of a mazda 6 2005 registration, diesel. Must say, I adore the car, lovely to drive, comfortable and well equipped. Now, to business, it has the flashing dpf light and engine warning light lit.

Oil is absolutely fine, smack on the correct level and correct oil.

Fuel economy roughly 50 to the gallon at a steady 70 mph.

Car pulls well up to around 4 thousand rpm, but then, kinda runs out of torque.


​​​​​​So, browsed Google as you do, and, attempted the dpf reset etc.

Wire into plug and earth as directed, revved the engine twice and presto, the car went into the dpf cleaning mode. Revs held for approximately two minutes at two thousand rpm, no hideous black smoke, nothing.

​​​​​​Turned car off, then back to key position two, pressed accelerator five times and again, presto, glow plug light lit 5 tones. Turned car off, ignition to position 2,obdii ready, and using torque, cleared the faults, which were dpf regeneration faults.

Now, here is the issue, car runs exactly the same, dpf flashing still and engine warning light up.

What the heck am I missing???

With the car running as it is, great fuel economy, not a little sluggish around 4 thousand rpm, surely the car cannot have anything wrong to that extent? Ive heard that limp mode only allows your to rev up to around 3 thousand. So many things, my poor brain is getting confused lol. Whats your opinions guys and, hi all.

David

Hi David,

I have had similar problems with my 6, the worst being when I went abroad a couple of years ago. For some reason my Mazda 6 always has light coming on AFTER a long run, stopping say at a services and then setting off again. If only Mazda had put a button on the dash which you can press when on a motorway to clean the dpf there would be a lot less problems with this car. I think I am in a better position to know how long I am going to be travelling for at a decent speed for when compared to the big chief designers at Mazda. I ran my 6 for about 600 miles with it flashing before taking it to a Mazda expert in Austria. If the light is flashing and EML is on the wire trick doesn't work for the regen according to the Mazda mechanic and needs to go to Mazda or somewhere else with appropriate software. I had tried before I took it there. It would start the regen for about 30 seconds or so, rev to about 2k and the back down to idle. My car had failed it's previous regen and had gone into limp mode. It would still pull over 3,000 rpm and was quite happy sat at 80mph on the motorway. The only difference is it cuts the turbo out to protect the engine so well down on power but not speed, just takes a while to get up there.

I had always had issues with this car and the terrible dpf system that Mazda had put in. Such a shame because the car is sound but Mazda have lost a lot of customers with this engine design. Just read the forums on Honest John. Last year about 50 miles into a journey, 80 mph on the A1 and light comes on and then flashing with EML. Now by this time I had obtained a Delphi DS150 diagnostic tool, reached my destination and no luck with regen. I then bought the Mazda VCM and still wouldn't regen. I had a chat with a local garage who was looking at buying some expensive dealer spec software and he used my car as an experiment. He said if he couldn’t fix it he wouldn’t charge me. Fair enough. No luck with regen. He said it could be the CO2 sensor. He was right. That's the little block bolted on bulkhead. Now on this car you can't perform a regen if the EML is on. So you have to clear codes and perform the regen but, and this is a big but, if there is something else wrong, other than it failed a regen, like a faulty sensor, then as soon as the EML comes on it will cancel the dpf regen. This sounds like the case with your car. I went the other route with mine and now have no issues with dpf. However the guy who re-mapped my car had some issues and it was all down to the CO2 sensor being faulty.

My advice would be to try another CO2 sensor and then clear the codes and try the regen. Check there are no faulty wires etc. Next to the fusebox there is a large multi-plug with maybe 12 or more wires going to it. Unplug it (ignition off) and have a look at the terminals. They have a habit of corroding and can stop the regen. Also the guy I bought my Mazda VCM from said to use Forscan as it does everything that the Mazda IDS software does. I am not familiar with torque but a modded ELM with Forscan works on the Mazda 6 too. If you buy an ELM make sure you get the modded one with the switch added.

Let me know how you get on.

Regards, Martin
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clear, connection, diesel, dpf, filter, flashing, indicator, jumper, light, mazda, mazda5, particlate, reset, service, serviceindicator, wires

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