Mazda tribute 06 3L V6 FWD
Vehicle won't start after vacuum hoses where re-checked. Before hand, the engine would turn on but try and die, but continued to stay on if you have it some gas when it was about to die. I'll post a video with the sound it now does.

FYI, New parts:

Fuel rail sensor wire
Spark plugs
Starter
Vacuum sensor (both)
ERG vacuum solenoid
Valve cover
Intake gasket
Starter
Tensioner pulling
Idler pulley
Fuel filter
Power steering pump and pulley
Oil pressure sensor and plug
All the vacuum hoses he said are good.

However, the car did almost start when he messed with the vacuum hoses again (so it seems like it's the vacuum hoses related???)
but the battery died again so we will have to wait until we find a jump for the battery to retry to start it again.

What is going on with my car???
Feels like I'm dealing with a pos Ford 😭

idk if I need Mazda for:
ECM control module I don't know if it has to be programmed by dealership

My car,
Mazda tribute 06 3L V6 Front wheel drive

 

It won't let me post a video of the sound it's currently making

 

The pole is one of the most ridiculous one I have ever seen on any vehicle forums
I won’t Vote on something so ridiculous

Its an 2006 so the age alone they are going to have normals service concerns


As for the question about the issues …..
Well for starters why did you replace all those parts?
I saw a HE and not you that did some or all the work. So why did HE not solve the problem *likely from….

what were the DTC (engine codes ) that you found.

* My first “guess” if it was running before all those ( unverified as failed or bad?) parts were replaced then HE needs to meticulously recheck everything HE did with the service .

 

It's not a ridiculous pol when you search the Internet and allmost all owners of the same make and model ask the very same things. AND have this very same issue!

All due respect, we're looking for problems to solve the issues, not negative narcissistic replies.

As to your question.
All diagnostic readers do NOT pull up any codes, yet the vehicle will NOT start. Again, if you search the Internet a ton of owners with this same make and model have this issue.

 

The internet is not a way to get accurate numbers. There are too many same types of website(forums) that the same people will post on and in some cases with mor then one account.
If you do research on statistical facts found, you will see that a pole like the one you started is badly flawed.
But hey you are not breaking any forum guidelines so have at it but I will post more on the subject if I see bad or inaccurate information posted.

As for problems that's what I try to do, weed out DIY and MacGyver duct tape and bailing wire techniques and fixes.
Btw DUDE.... lol what you call narcissistic responses comes a member that is not a DIY like yourself and will and do post the proper service advise and steps to take to resolve vehcle problems.
Next time you want to name call try first to look into a member posting and not assume something that is well technically speaking not in your field of education study, or you would not have used that word description. Which I should also point name calling is not allowed even mildly as you did on this and most forums under posting guidelines.
soooo on with more bad information....

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________
*Back on topic: True low quality and I like to target blue tooth scanning devices do not do the proper job at the getting ECU,PCM etc information from the Diagnostic connector . So as I often post to use at least a quality Diagnostic scanner. Then you will always get ECU information unless there is a harness (connections) or ECU damage or corrupt programing.

So if you are not getting access to your ECU then those are the first things to start looking into.
However before you go on a witch hunt the very first thing to check of the list of proper diagnostic steps is to load test the battery and check the battery terminals as well as the cable to the starter and the especially the ground connection.
The age of the battery nor the that is has 12.50 volts is not the condition of the battery only the static state of the battery. Besides 99.9% of individual have no real idea how old their battery is!
Cautionary note: If the battery must be removed follow the proper steps for safety when removing the battery of disconnecting it. Not flowering the proper steps can cause damage to the battery, electrical system or ECU .


ASE

 

Mazda,

So before I respond to your negative and bullying reply...(when you should be rather giving replies that a problem solving).... My battery is only (1yo)

However, lets focus on problem solving rather than spreading hate and negativity.

People don't come here to have Mazda spread negativity and hate, they come here for problem solving.

#Mazda

 

Right so not sure but u are the one that seems butt hurt here. I have no hate or negativity but I do speak frankly and with experience

sooooo you ahead and stated what you think is a one year old battery and disregarded my first helpful information to start the path of problem solving ? Lol


I also notice this pole is not going so well. All those so called owners having issues posted on the internet,

Here’s the thing , some of us specifically on this forum unlike many forum actually work in the auto industry and tend to know fact from fiction when it come to things like actual statistical numbers relating to problems. Hate to burst your thought bubble about internet information but the highest percentage of problems with vehicles is owner negligence in servicing. Plain and simple. And by your small amount of posting so far ads to this percentage. I.e. battery 1 year old.

So how about you start over from your own first posting on this thread and re-read everything again. Maybe be happy that I have interest in actually helping you with your Mazda.

ASE

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? Sometimes that can reset things.

 

This is an old MYTH and it started when OBDII was first introduced. waaaaay back in approx. 1995. It was a bad idea then and still is a bad idea now. Normally all it really does is delay and at times adds in delaying to diagnosing the real issue. And there is also the chance and often happens to cause other additional problems.
Let alone disconnecting and reconnecting a dangerous few times.
However if anyone is going to take this antiquated and not recognized in the professional Auto service world then check that the battery has minimum 12.5 volts and have the battery load tested before you do a unadvised service.

ASE


You know a couple years ago on another forum I was asked what is the most common service customer. I don't think I came up with the best answer but I did find looking at service notes that about 1 in 30 tried a method they found to service DIY on the internet. To give perspective to that on a normal service week and averaging that out for a year we service 1440 per year. So about 208 DIY fail to properly repair or service properly their vehcle ending up bringing it to us to service. And those are only the customers that actual claim to have tried to fix their problems. We know and see there are greater numbers. There is always telltale signs