TSB for Mazdas
#42
06-24-2010, 11:17 PM
TSB question
First off, thank you for posting these. Second, does your Mazda have to still be under warranty for a TSB to be repaired for free? I just got my Mazda 3 home from the shop yesterday & the problem I paid $175 to be repaired is listed on this TSB report--the broken #3 engine mount.
Thanks.
PK
Thanks.
PK
#43
06-25-2010, 03:57 AM
Hi and Welcome, pkme!!
To answer your question, yes it does. A TSB is not a recall and therefore the car companies and dealers are under no obligation to repair the problem for free, unless covered by warranty.
#44
06-25-2010, 02:25 PM
thanks
Thanks for your reply. Well, I kind of thought that, but I was *hoping*! 6 months late--oh, well--at least I don't have car pymts anymore!
Thanks for the welcome. I think I will be able to get some good info on this site. That will be really helpful, b/c I would really like this car to last me a long time, & I know very little about cars...
Thanks again.
~PK
Thanks for the welcome. I think I will be able to get some good info on this site. That will be really helpful, b/c I would really like this car to last me a long time, & I know very little about cars...
Thanks again.
~PK
#45
06-25-2010, 03:32 PM
If it makes you feel any better, pk, I had a similar situation happen to me.
Right before my car was out of warranty I was having a problem tracked to the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. They replaced it and then replaced it again a day later. This seemed to fix the problem.
But then a few months later, Dec 24th, the day before Christmas to be exact, the car started acting like the MAF was bad again. It jerked and acted like it didn't want to take fuel when I was trying to accelerate. I was afraid of an inconvenient break-down at some point.
I got an appointment for Dec 26th and waited. I was told the fuel purge valve had "gone bad," that the diagnostics were $100, the part was $180 and labor for 1 hr. Well, I need my car and didn't want to mess around in the middle of winter, so I begrudgingly said to go ahead w/the repair.
My car sat in the shop for another 1/2 hr w/o being touched, then in the service department parking lot for another hour before they came and got me. The repair took 10 mins and the purge valve is right up front in the engine compartment. It's a little plastic valve w/a hose attached to it. I got all that at the bargain price of $350 post Christmas day.
If I had known what and where this purge valve was, and how easy it was to replace, I would have saved myself about $200. It is no harder than changing a spark plug!! But I thought it was underneath the car, back by the fuel tank near the RR suspension/brakes which is a very tightly packed area.
My car was then about 4 months out of warranty.
#46
06-29-2010, 12:58 PM
Hello Tracker,
Do you have any TSB's on engine failure - timing chains - turbo.
I am among thousands with disputes on 07-08 CX7's that are being denied warranty repair service because of excessive SLUDGE. This is the loophold Mazda is using. I am waiting for an independent adjuster to look at my car in the next 24 hours to make a final decision...i need help fast. please feel free to email me at eward@apexfoodgroup.com I will respond with my contact number. tks warde
Do you have any TSB's on engine failure - timing chains - turbo.
I am among thousands with disputes on 07-08 CX7's that are being denied warranty repair service because of excessive SLUDGE. This is the loophold Mazda is using. I am waiting for an independent adjuster to look at my car in the next 24 hours to make a final decision...i need help fast. please feel free to email me at eward@apexfoodgroup.com I will respond with my contact number. tks warde
#47
10-28-2011, 06:53 AM
I'd like the details of the tsbs relating to condensation in the rear combination lights of mazda6 models.
The url for the list is here :
Mazda results under Recalls & TSBs | AutoMD
I can only see limited info on automd though - don't know why - do you have to pay for full access?
I heard they stopped covering this with the warranty, but I want the tsb's leading up to that decision an how they used to handle it.
The url for the list is here :
Mazda results under Recalls & TSBs | AutoMD
I can only see limited info on automd though - don't know why - do you have to pay for full access?
I heard they stopped covering this with the warranty, but I want the tsb's leading up to that decision an how they used to handle it.
Last edited by paddyp; 10-28-2011 at 07:07 AM.
#49
09-26-2017, 04:25 AM
The thro
Subject:
UNSTABLE IDLING/ENGINE STALLS JUST AFTER STOPPING
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2003-2009 Mazda6 with 2.3L/2.5L (including Mazdaspeed6)
2004-2009 Mazda3 (including Mazdaspeed3)
2006-2009 Mazda5
2006-2009 Mazda MX-5
2007-2009 Mazda CX-7
DESCRIPTION
Some vehicles may exhibit a concern of unstable idling or, in some rare cases, stalling, just after the vehicle stops with no DTCs detected. The problem is due to the accumulation of carbon deposits inside the throttle body causing air flow to decrease.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure and the Workshop Manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Remove the throttle body.
a. Write down the customer's radio station presets.
b. Disconnect the battery terminals.
c. Remove the air hose from the throttle body.
d. Disconnect the throttle body connector.
e. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold with the water hose connected.
3. Clean the throttle body.
a. Clean the inside throttle body on the air hose side using a clean and soft shop cloth sprayed with engine cleaner (part number 000-77-A86) along the cross hatch areas, and especially around the circled areas as shown.
CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.
b. Turn the throttle body to clean it at the intake manifold side.
c. Clean the throttle with the throttle valve opened using the same shop cloth and cleaner.
WARNING:
Be careful not to pinch your fingers in the throttle valve when it is opened because the valve will close automatically from spring tension.
CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.
d. Make sure there is no foreign material inside the throttle body.
4. Re-install the throttle body using a new gasket.
5. Connect the battery cables.
6. Perform the throttle valve position learning and idling engine rpm inspection.
a. Connect the M-MDS.
b. Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine for one minute, then turn it to OFF.
c. After one minute has passed, start the engine.
d. Warm up the engine at idling until the cooling fan starts operating or until the coolant temperature reaches 194°F (90°C) or higher.
e. Turn off any electrical load, including the A/C, with the shifter in Neutral or Park position.
f. Let the engine run for five minutes.
g. Measure the engine rpm at idle using the M-MDS to confirm it is within specification according to the Workshop Manual.
7. Verify repair.
8. Enter the customer's radio station presets.
9. Perform "Power Window Initialization Procedure" on vehicles with AUTO UP/AUTO DOWN windows.
10. Inform customers with vehicles with memory seats that the memory positions will need to be set again to their desired positions because the battery was disconnected.
UNSTABLE IDLING/ENGINE STALLS JUST AFTER STOPPING
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2003-2009 Mazda6 with 2.3L/2.5L (including Mazdaspeed6)
2004-2009 Mazda3 (including Mazdaspeed3)
2006-2009 Mazda5
2006-2009 Mazda MX-5
2007-2009 Mazda CX-7
DESCRIPTION
Some vehicles may exhibit a concern of unstable idling or, in some rare cases, stalling, just after the vehicle stops with no DTCs detected. The problem is due to the accumulation of carbon deposits inside the throttle body causing air flow to decrease.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure and the Workshop Manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Remove the throttle body.
a. Write down the customer's radio station presets.
b. Disconnect the battery terminals.
c. Remove the air hose from the throttle body.
d. Disconnect the throttle body connector.
e. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold with the water hose connected.
3. Clean the throttle body.
a. Clean the inside throttle body on the air hose side using a clean and soft shop cloth sprayed with engine cleaner (part number 000-77-A86) along the cross hatch areas, and especially around the circled areas as shown.
CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.
b. Turn the throttle body to clean it at the intake manifold side.
c. Clean the throttle with the throttle valve opened using the same shop cloth and cleaner.
WARNING:
Be careful not to pinch your fingers in the throttle valve when it is opened because the valve will close automatically from spring tension.
CAUTION:
DO NOT spray the cleaner directly inside the throttle body and DO NOT wipe around the throttle valve shaft shown with an X.
d. Make sure there is no foreign material inside the throttle body.
4. Re-install the throttle body using a new gasket.
5. Connect the battery cables.
6. Perform the throttle valve position learning and idling engine rpm inspection.
a. Connect the M-MDS.
b. Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine for one minute, then turn it to OFF.
c. After one minute has passed, start the engine.
d. Warm up the engine at idling until the cooling fan starts operating or until the coolant temperature reaches 194°F (90°C) or higher.
e. Turn off any electrical load, including the A/C, with the shifter in Neutral or Park position.
f. Let the engine run for five minutes.
g. Measure the engine rpm at idle using the M-MDS to confirm it is within specification according to the Workshop Manual.
7. Verify repair.
8. Enter the customer's radio station presets.
9. Perform "Power Window Initialization Procedure" on vehicles with AUTO UP/AUTO DOWN windows.
10. Inform customers with vehicles with memory seats that the memory positions will need to be set again to their desired positions because the battery was disconnected.
Mazda 3 I 2 liter, 2006 model year.
I have cleaned the throttle body twice because it was my immediate thought as too why I had an unstable idle. Didn't change anything. I recently finally established a cause and effect after months of annoying surges, hunting and occasional stalling... Any electrical load. Blinkers will rarely do it, steering will sometimes do it. Stereo, Interestingly won't. Probably because I have a capacitor. Headlights, sometimes, brights will initiate a 2 to 300 rpm hunt, a/c will initiate a 300 rpm hunt, brights with the blower motor on will cause it, funny thing is all will immediately stop if I turn off the load, except the headlights. Turn the brights off it will surge up to almost 1500 rpm, and then stall. It is the weirdest goddamn thing. Again, can not emphasis enough, the throttle body is as clean as a whistle, it is not the problem, I gaurentee it. There are no leaks, I've thouroughly tested for them. (I mean there are only four vacuum lines) the battery is fine, two years old, test perfect health. Same with alternator. It's like when the load goes up, and the rpms are supposed to kick up, instead of doing so, the engine starts hunting, and occasionally stalls.
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brynm
Mazda 323,Mazda 626 & Mazda 929
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